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Discussion Starter #1
Are the front wheel bearings a sealed unit that needs to be pressed in, or are they just a "drop-in" type of bearing, mine need to be replaced soon & I'm wondering do I really need to go to dealer to have this work done.
I know that the "races" need to be drivin out, but, the question is in the bearing set.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Michael thanx for that info, I'll prob buy the tool, it's worth it!! own it forever.
Harbor F has a bearing tool?? I didn't know that, never needed it up till now..
Capt.Bob are you familiar w/ the HF bearing tool?? Is it better than this tool?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have 137 K mi on my bike & never changed the wheel bearings, they are making very little clicking right now..
 

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Be sure to use OEM parts. I just posted this thread the other day, and it has to do with doing a proper inspection on wheel bearings.

 

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Michael thanx for that info, I'll prob buy the tool, it's worth it!! own it forever.
Harbor F has a bearing tool?? I didn't know that, never needed it up till now..
Capt.Bob are you familiar w/ the HF bearing tool?? Is it better than this tool?
I am familiar with at least one of the Harbor Freight Blind Hole Bearing Puller Set, Model 95987. I bought one. I was disappointed with it. It doesn't compare with the simplicity and ease of use of Dan's GL1800 Goldwing Front Wheel Bearing removal/installer. For the price of the Harbor freight tool, I bought two of Dan's. One for me and one for a ridding partner.
 

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I have the OEM tools as shown in a Service Manual. Those tools had a difficult time removing the aftermarket bearings that I show in the link above. On one side, I had to install the die from the opposite end and drive out from the back side. With OEM parts I've never had that issue. In my case a blind hole puller would have not have worked.
 

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Correct, the blind hole puller like the one sold by Harbor Freight, will not work because the shoulders on the end of the fingers that insert into the bearing to be removed, have no where to go when it expands. With the Gold Wing wheel, there is no recess behind the bearings because of the sleeve the separates the two bearing sets.
IMG_20200627_125121899.jpg IMG_20200627_125039371.jpg

The Honda tools and Dan's tool go into the bearing and is wedged there with the long shaft.
Then the bearing can be driven out.

As you can see, Dan's tool is very similar to the Honda Tools for 1/3 the price.
Perfect for the individual doing his own work I think.
IMG_20200627_124224404.jpg Untitled.jpg
 

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After having my dealer replace tires at 48,000 miles, I soon thereafter had to remove my front wheel due to the brake squealing. Not only did I find out the dealer did not check brake pad material remaining, which was worn out, but the front wheel bearing was almost unable to turn. Moralnof the story: check these YOURSELF each time a tire is replaced.
 

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How many miles do those bearings usually go?
I had one go bad at 42,000 miles. Most people don't have one go bad this early. My wife's bike has 74,000 miles on the original set. Many replace at 100K miles regardless.

On my bike, when the bearing went out, it felt like someone was kicking the side of the tire as I drove down the road.
 

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That's a good price. Cheaper than the HF[/QUOT
Correct, the blind hole puller like the one sold by Harbor Freight, will not work because the shoulders on the end of the fingers that insert into the bearing to be removed, have no where to go when it expands. With the Gold Wing wheel, there is no recess behind the bearings because of the sleeve the separates the two bearing sets.
View attachment 371055 View attachment 371056

The Honda tools and Dan's tool go into the bearing and is wedged there with the long shaft.
Then the bearing can be driven out.

As you can see, Dan's tool is very similar to the Honda Tools for 1/3 the price.
Perfect for the individual doing his own work I think.
View attachment 371057 View attachment 371058
Correct, the blind hole puller like the one sold by Harbor Freight, will not work because the shoulders on the end of the fingers that insert into the bearing to be removed, have no where to go when it expands. With the Gold Wing wheel, there is no recess behind the bearings because of the sleeve the separates the two bearing sets.
View attachment 371055 View attachment 371056

The Honda tools and Dan's tool go into the bearing and is wedged there with the long shaft.
Then the bearing can be driven out.

As you can see, Dan's tool is very similar to the Honda Tools for 1/3 the price.
Perfect for the individual doing his own work I think.
View attachment 371057 View attachment 371058
Just curious, how long did it take you once the wheel was off
Just trying to see what I am getting into when time comes
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Greg there is no rust in my bearings, I frequently pull the axle, clean & inspect the bearings, @ 140 K mi I think it's time for a new set...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Garyem
I bought Dans tool, we'll give it a try..
 

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Just curious, how long did it take you once the wheel was off
Just trying to see what I am getting into when time comes
Once the wheel was off and on the 2 x 4's for support, it took about 10 minutes tops to get the bearings out.
 

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Correct, the blind hole puller like the one sold by Harbor Freight, will not work because the shoulders on the end of the fingers that insert into the bearing to be removed, have no where to go when it expands. With the Gold Wing wheel, there is no recess behind the bearings because of the sleeve the separates the two bearing sets.
View attachment 371055 View attachment 371056

The Honda tools and Dan's tool go into the bearing and is wedged there with the long shaft.
Then the bearing can be driven out.

As you can see, Dan's tool is very similar to the Honda Tools for 1/3 the price.
Perfect for the individual doing his own work I think.
View attachment 371057 View attachment 371058
The HF tool works but you have to align the tapered edge of the expander to the tapered recess on the bearing. BTW my HF tool has a sharper taper than yours appears to have. Works the way all blind bearing pullers work.
 

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I posted this yesterday, but it seems not to appear. Any way; my HF slide hammer puller works for me on OE twin bearings. I do believe the Honda version is easier.

Make sure you follow the installation sequence of the service manual to the letter. IIRC on the pre-2018 models the right bearing set is pressed in until it bottoms on the rest cut into the wheel. Then the center inner bearing spacer is slipped in from the left, the the left bearing set is pressed in until its center race just barely makes contact with the spacer. I believe the 2018+ versions have the alignment referenced to the left, just the opposite of previous "generation".

prs
 
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