nickel

Take out the nickel and see if that makes a difference? Did they line up the yellow circle on the tire correctly? Not balanced it correctly?


Rayjoe

 

Jack up the front end and spin the wheel while you watch the sidewalls, maybe they didn’t get the bead seated properly.

 

While you have the tire rotating, check the center of the tread to make sure the tire is actually round. Not all tires turn out round like they should, and an out of round tire will make the front end "bounce" even if it's balanced.

 

Check your air pressure. With too much air every pebble feels like running over a boulder.

 

My 2d E-4 perfectly mounted and with beads did that at about 27mph. No freaking idea why. It's not the first time I've heard it. My tire was early on in production after they changed max cold psi value. I'm on my 3d front E-4 and it's fine. Seriously think they had a flawed batch , perhaps the balance point was wrong, causing misaligned installation. Won't notice on anything but smooth black top, or at different speeds . It's only about a 2 to 3 mph difference from what I noticed. O tab the tire for 17k, no issue.

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Also running max pressure helped reduce, so I used that observance as a low pressure warning. I noticed a difference between 41 and 39 psi just as my FoBo starts to alert me.

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Fork bind from just slapping it back together? Bead seat/tire trueness/imbalance/inflation pressurel have been addressed. Oh, did they bend the rim?

 

Try some beads if nothing else works should balance it if thats the problem

 

Great advice, thank you all!

OK, so from easiest to hardest I'll do the following:

1. Confirm the yellow dot is aligned with the valve stem.
2. Check that the bead is seated all the way around.
3. Check that the tire is round circumferentially and laterally.
4. Check that the rim is not bent.
5. Inflate to the full 41 lbs. (it looks a pound or two low because my 40# red-green-yellow tire stem is a little yellow).
6. Put in this bottle of Run-On? [nomex=on]

 

Seems to me, that after you've reinstalled the tire axle you'll want to lower the bike down and bounce the front tire a few times before you torque the pinch bolts.

 

Would that be to "seat" an off-axis axle?

 

Aww, you've got to ask someone much smarter than I. I just know the book says to do it...:grin2:

 

Update:

1. The yellow dot is aligned with the valve stem.
2. The bead is uniformly seated all the way around on both sides.
3. The tire is true circumferentially and laterally.
4. The rim is true on both sides all the way around.
5. The tire was very low - 30 pounds! I inflated it to 40 pounds. Test on Sunday, weather permitting.
6. I ordered two more bottles of Run-On.

Thanks for all the advice!

 

Try Honda's recommended 36F/41R

 

Did you replace the springs while you were working on it. The bounce you are describing is common with Race Tech and Progressive tubes set too stiff for the rider using them.


Richard

 

Thanks for the response.

The bike rode great for 50 miles, just before the tires were replaced, so I am thinking it is/was something related to the new rubber, or something introduced during the process of changing the tires out.

 

I really surmise Dunlop had a batch with a hard spot on the tire. Just for GPs post the manufature date code. I still have my previous set as they still have about 5k left on them, I only changed to take an extended trip that wasn't going to be interrupted by a tire change out.

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Great question.

I'll have to check later today, I recall the tech saying one of the tires was made in March of this year, and the other in November of last year, so both were relatively new.

 

Date codes are 4317 in front, 1118 in back.

Pretty new by tire standards.

 

Thanks, l will check mine that are also from 2017.

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Got a chance to test ride it, and the bounce seems to be gone. As it only appeared on slow cruise conditions, I'll continue to monitor it and update this thread if the proper inflation wasn't the ultimate solution.

 

I too only noticed it at a very narrow speed band around 28mph and on smooth black top. The tire wore fine too I removed them for a long trip. Never bothered me at speed. At least one other member mentioned noticing it. O think you'll be fine unless you ride with a very full cup of coffee!

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I've narrowed it down to a speed and RPM combination, namely 40 mph at 2100-2200 RPMs. It very much feels like a harmonic between the drivetrain and the suspension, even though it presents as a bounce in the front tire.

If I could liken it to anything, it would be the feeling of the Porsche 944S with the big rubber damper disk in the clutch, and when you dump the clutch clumsily in too high a gear it "bounces" back and forth in the same way.

 

I too thought it to be a harmonic but it control, it never amplified as some harmonic systems do.

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You're feeling it when it *is* amplified, at a specific RPM range. Any slower and the bike very obviously "lugs" and you shift down. Any faster and the harmonic goes away, perhaps due to centrifugal force on the front tire, or perhaps because the engine is getting into its proper power band.

 

Is your suspension OEM ??? Do you have and OEM rear spring ???

 

Thanks for the questions - I'm not 100% certain, but it's likely that the bike has the original OEM suspension front and back, which by now is soundly whooped at 53K.

Last night I moved the spring preload from 15 to 25, but I haven't had a chance to go for a test drive, and likely won't be able to until tomorrow night at the earliest.

 

If you can, with a mirror and a flash light look up at the rear spring and see if it's red or black in color.

 

Sounds good, I'll have to get back to you on that one. What does one color vs. the other mean?