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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had thought about doing this to add with the video that I did previously on how to lay the GL1800 on its side to change the rear wheel. It Was due for a front change, so I set the camera up in the garage for this. I apologize for the video quality. I guess the lighting in the garage just doesn't match nature's lighting for this cheap camera.

This video is for entertainment purposes only. Performance of any of these tasks should only be done by a trained professional and the performance and results are at your own risk.

Note that there are a few added steps if you have ABS! Check the manual!

Tools used:
  • Small floor jack with wood block
  • nitrile gloves
  • 3/8 torque wrench
  • 3/8 ratchets (short and long handled, but could probably all be done with the short one)
  • 3/8 "T" handle (for removing fender bolts)
  • 12 & 22 mm 3/8 sockets
  • 5 & 6 mm hex wrenches
  • T40 wrench
  • screwdriver
  • coathanger or other heavy wire for hanging pads
  • grease
  • rags
  • blue (medium) thread lock
  • small wire brush
  • two small pieces corrugated cardboard

Torque values:
  • Axel bolt - 44 ft-lbs
  • Axel pinch bolts - 16 ft-lbs
  • Right side caliper bolts - 23 ft-lbs
  • Left side pivot (T40) bolt - 19 ft-lbs
  • Left pivot bolt (6 mm Allen) - 23 ft lbs

Note that the shop manual instructs you to loosen the left pinch bolts, hold the front brakes and compress the forks several times to center the forks and seat the brake pads, then re-tighten and torque the pinch bolts. I did this but did not get it on the video. On my bike, the axle never moves from the scribe mark doing this.

 

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Bravo Thank you
 

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PIDJONES I do have a question.
Would it be a good idea if I used lock tight on bolts for fenders?
 

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Thanks for posting:yes1:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
PIDJONES I do have a question.
Would it be a good idea if I used lock tight on bolts for fenders?
It is not called for, but should be Ok on the four that go into the lower legs. Don't use it on the back two that hold the back of the caliber cover, because they go into metal clip-on threads in the plastic.

Remember that the rubber washer goes on the bottom fender bolt into the leg, and always make sure that you have it through both pieces (the chrome caliper cover tab as well as the fender) before tightening. The torque spec for 6mm bolts is 7 ft-lbs, but I never torque these as it is too close to the bottom end of my wrench range, and would probably be inaccurate anyway. I've never had one to loosen just tightening with the hex driver socket as a handle.
 

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Thanks Nathan! :thumbup:
 

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Thank you for posting.

Did you ever think of starting a how to video, for tires, brakes, coolant, oil, rear end and clutch / brake fluid changes? Your presentation is smooth and natural.

Nice job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thank you for posting.

Did you ever think of starting a how to video, for tires, brakes, coolant, oil, rear end and clutch / brake fluid changes? Your presentation is smooth and natural.

Nice job.
Thanks, but I'll leave those to Fred. I am presently employed by my company as an instructor. Don't have a bit of trouble jawing while I demonstrate. But, I can put a whole classroom to sleep when I start on cyclotron theory!
 

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Thank You for making these videos, These are 1000 times better than any manual. I keep all your vids you made ,they come in very handy:thumbup: I have Freds vids also:thumbup: Keep them comin!!!:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
 

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nice job ! i will give the cardboard between the brakepads trick a try next change :thumbup:
 

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Thank you very much for these "how to" videos. Extremely helpful and confidence building for a novice such as myself...
 

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Thanks for the video... I also liked the list of tools needed and the Torque values. Very good information.

Thanks :bow:
 

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Great video! Thanks for sharing!:thumbup:
 
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