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Discussion Starter #1
Yesterday while riding the red fuel injection warning light came on, the bike still ran perfectly.
So I returned home shut the bike off and restarted and no more warning light so I took off again and everything seemed fine, after 100 miles I stopped for a few minutes and when I left there everything was fine for about 6 miles then the warning light came on again, so I stopped shut it off and restarted everything was fine again, about 20 miles later warning light came on again so I checked for codes, I believe the code is 25 but it might be 15. When I took off from there there was no warning light and I rode another 75 home and even stopped for gas and the warning light never came on again. What do you think might be the cause of all this ?
 

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Be sure to verify that it is code 25. If its for you 2002, you will probably be needing an ECM. Often code 25 is associated to poor running, and wanting to die at idle. I've also seen them have a slight hesitation on light acceleration.

If you end up replacing the ECM, be sure to check the spark plugs. Often they show signs of fouling.
 

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Recall Greg, I had the very same problem indicated by my intermittent FI light from TN back to FL, problem was not the ECM but the knock sensor. But of course the code is the true indicator.

Bill
 

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Yesterday while riding the red fuel injection warning light came on, the bike still ran perfectly.
So I returned home shut the bike off and restarted and no more warning light so I took off again and everything seemed fine, after 100 miles I stopped for a few minutes and when I left there everything was fine for about 6 miles then the warning light came on again, so I stopped shut it off and restarted everything was fine again, about 20 miles later warning light came on again so I checked for codes, I believe the code is 25 but it might be 15. When I took off from there there was no warning light and I rode another 75 home and even stopped for gas and the warning light never came on again. What do you think might be the cause of all this ?
Verify the code again and if it’s 25, swap the left and right knock sensors positions in the engine and try it again. If it throws a 26, then it’s the sensor. If it throws 25 again, it’s either the sensor’s wires or a bad ECM.
 

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Might be bad gas. Too much ethanol will cause a vapor lock in the fuel supply line. Sometimes the supplier uses the "splash system to get the ethanol in the gas when the tanker is filling, which is sort of a guess. I have had this happen twice, now I only use preimum fuel(no ethanol).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I own a shop manual but borrowed it to a friend, I will be taking a ride over there next week to get it back.
I believe its code 25 , if it was code 15 what would that indicate ?
 

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I own a shop manual but borrowed it to a friend, I will be taking a ride over there next week to get it back.
I believe its code 25 , if it was code 15 what would that indicate ?
Codes 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, and 17 represent the 6 injectors. It's unlikely that it's code 15, so it's probably code 25. In either case, once you get your manual back, remove the seat and pull the DTC code(s) to know for sure. Be sure to write your code(s) down first, then erase the code(s).

To swap the sensors, here is what I do.
- remove lower center cowl
- remove right front exhaust shield

To unscrew the left one, I work from the front. To remove the right one, I work from the front and the side.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Well after about 1,000 miles the problem seems to have fixed itself, hopefully it doesn’t come back.
When it was happening the code definitely was 25.
It always ran perfect with or without the code and has maintained my average of 43 mpg.

Many years ago I got the FI light after riding in the rain for about 700 miles but after I shut the bike off it never happened again until recently.

I do have a spare ECM and have added that to all the extra stuff being hauled around in a saddlebag.
 

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Do you want to order the ECM now or wait until the bike is no longer ride-able?
I say this because this is the story I got to tell my fellow GoldWingers,
 
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Well after about 1,000 miles the problem seems to have fixed itself, hopefully it doesn’t come back.
When it was happening the code definitely was 25.
It always ran perfect with or without the code and has maintained my average of 43 mpg.

Many years ago I got the FI light after riding in the rain for about 700 miles but after I shut the bike off it never happened again until recently.

I do have a spare ECM and have added that to all the extra stuff being hauled around in a saddlebag.
The code is stored in the ECM. In the PGM-FI section of the Service Manual, it shows how to not only pull the code, but erase it(them) too. There can be more then one DTC code stored. After the code(s) is pulled, for future reference they should be erased. Be sure to make note of the codes stored.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Do you want to order the ECM now or wait until the bike is no longer ride-able?
I say this because this is the story I got to tell my fellow GoldWingers,
Maybe you missed it but I already have a spare ECM and recently started hauling it along in a saddlebag , maybe that’s what actually made the problem go away lol . :wink2:
 

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Maybe you missed it but I already have a spare ECM and recently started hauling it along in a saddlebag , maybe that’s what actually made the problem go away lol . :wink2:
I saw that. I guess you can just swap out parts. With the seat off, pulling DTC codes is easy. I'm encouraging that you gather as much information first. Circumstances later can make it important to do it now.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I saw that. I guess you can just swap out parts. With the seat off, pulling DTC codes is easy. I'm encouraging that you gather as much information first. Circumstances later can make it important to do it now.
At least for now I have no intentions of changing anything it runs perfectly, I’m not sure what was causing that Fuel injection warning to come on but it ain’t coming on any more so I ain’t changing anything.
 

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At least for now I have no intentions of changing anything it runs perfectly, I’m not sure what was causing that Fuel injection warning to come on but it ain’t coming on any more so I ain’t changing anything.
Although the system is not currently faulting and causing the FI light to come on, why it did come on (the code) is still stored in the ECM. For diagnostic reasons, it is best to pull the codes and clear them. That way the next time the fault occurs there will only be 1 code which may need attention. If there are multiple codes, and none are cleared, there is no way to know which one is relevant. Heavy rain can cause water to get into a connection and cause a code to trigger.
 

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Read the owners manual, it’s FI, Big F, Big I, PGM-FI Fuel Injection malfunction indicator lamp/light(MIL) when it comes on this indicates a problem with the Fuel Injection System. :grin2:
Yep, mine says the same. Not FL, F1 it's FI which in some cases translates to F ME.
 

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Not Fuel Injection (FI)
It is FAULT Fl
Big F little L
Somebody had to say it
I just typed 'FI' in caps ... 'fi' with no caps. I think it has to do with font. Honda should have chosen better ones.
 
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