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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Riding 2-up this weekend, coming back from a hiking trip in South Mountain State Park. All good in the farm country, then right in the middle of a huge town, two deer bolted from left to right, with multiple oncoming cars.

At 45+ mph I grabbed all the brakes we had, as hard as I've ever had to, and missed the deer by a few feet.

The handlebars shook hard side to side, and I modulated the brake lever a bit then grabbed hard again, and again the handlebars shook hard side to side. My wife said afterwards that the tires were squealing.

The bike is a 2003 with 40 psi in the front tire and 40 psi in the rear tire (Dunlop E4's with good tread, no cupping, and about 10,000 miles on the front and 2,000 miles on the rear), ABS, and the brake fluid was replaced one year ago. The ADV is disabled with a shim, and the rear preload was refilled last year and is set on 25. The road was smooth, flat, straight, dry pavement.

For those of you who have full-on emergency braking experience, was there any kind of wobble at the time, or was it smooth?
 

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In my experience it should be smooth. A variable that could cause this is the road surface. Was it grooved concrete? Was it smooth pavement? Did your front tire lock up and start to turn? Is your front tire badly cupped? Warped rotors will cause it to pulse.

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No full-on experience, but in serious practice no shaking.
 

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For me I've had several memorable moments. In my case, each time my ABS has kicked in. I'm so thankful for ABS.
 

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2 years ago hit a deer and prior to the impact I had the brakes on as hard as they go. ABS on smooth pavement , two-up and 100 kph going downhill. No slide and no wobble. The bike actually performed admirably. Rode the bike home with only plastic damage.
 

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The biggest challenge always is catching the bike after it stops. In other words, after you get your feet off the pegs and planted on the ground. Then you know you made it. I remember my clutch handle was still firmly against the grip and the throttle was partially open. And my shorts were dry.
 

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On both my '08 and '09 I have used as much front brake as I could with both my right hand and right foot and there was never any shake or wobble. I also never felt the pulsing of the ABS in the brake levers. I had Traxxion springs in both with the anti-dive enabled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Good questions and shared experiences, thank you. Edited post to indicate tires are in great condition - no cupping, and relatively new rear with about 2,000 miles on it. Pavement was smooth and dry.

I plan to practice (1-up) with some very hard braking to see if I can replicate the shake. Depending on how the previous owner replaced (or did not replace) their brake fluid (the stuck ADV being one indicator), I wonder if the ABS might not be actuating as it should?

I'll look in the Service Manual to see if there's some kind of other test I can do to confirm it's functioning properly, too.
 

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Good questions and shared experiences, thank you. Edited post to indicate tires are in great condition - no cupping, and relatively new rear with about 2,000 miles on it. Pavement was smooth and dry.

I plan to practice (1-up) with some very hard braking to see if I can replicate the shake. Depending on how the previous owner replaced (or did not replace) their brake fluid (the stuck ADV being one indicator), I wonder if the ABS might not be actuating as it should?

I'll look in the Service Manual to see if there's some kind of other test I can do to confirm it's functioning properly, too.
THINK IF ABS NOT WORKING WOULD HAVE LOCKED WHEEL HOW MANY MILES ON BIKE ? ORIGINAL HEAD BEARINGS ? I'VE HAD TO GRAB FULL ABOUT 3 TIMES ABS SAVED MY AZZ ONCE IN HEAVY RAIN . ABS DID ITS JOB ONLY BAD I'VE HEARD ON ABS IS STOPPING IN GRAVEL
 

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Yes, I would think loose or worn head bearings would probably make it shake under hard breaking that would be a good thing to check. Did tires squeal or brakes squeal? If tires then the ABS not working as it should.
ABS on gravel is terrible. That's why on adventure bikes it has a mode to turn off the ABS.

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'll research how to check the head bearings tonight, not sure how to do that. I did notice on the ride earlier in the day that in corners it would sometimes feel a bit like the front tire was slipping on a leaf, but only for an instant, and I told myself I was imagining it.

I don't see an obvious section in the Service Manual for "ABS not working, light not lit", so I'll continue to research how to troubleshoot that.
 

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Riding 2-up this weekend, coming back from a hiking trip in South Mountain State Park. All good in the farm country, then right in the middle of a huge town, two deer bolted from left to right, with multiple oncoming cars.

At 45+ mph I grabbed all the brakes we had, as hard as I've ever had to, and missed the deer by a few feet.

The handlebars shook hard side to side, and I modulated the brake lever a bit then grabbed hard again, and again the handlebars shook hard side to side. My wife said afterwards that the tires were squealing.

The bike is a 2003 with 40 psi in the front tire and 40 psi in the rear tire (Dunlop E4's with good tread, no cupping, and about 10,000 miles on the front and 2,000 miles on the rear), ABS, and the brake fluid was replaced one year ago. The ADV is disabled with a shim, and the rear preload was refilled last year and is set on 25. The road was smooth, flat, straight, dry pavement.

For those of you who have full-on emergency braking experience, was there any kind of wobble at the time, or was it smooth?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
ADV is disabled.
 

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On my last bike, a 1300 V Star I had Commander 3 tires installed on it. I have never had a new tire that was that slippery when new. I could put the front brake fully on and push the bike backwards in the garage ! About 10,000 kms later I had to do an emergency stop in the dry from about 30 kmph. The back wheel locked up and skidded in a straight line like it was on ice.
I stopped in time but the skid really surprised me, there was no grip at all. I went back to see if there was oil on the ground where I skidded and there was none.
 

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Check head bearings by putting the bike on the center stand. Raising the front wheel off the ground. Slowly turn the handle bars from lock to lock with a finger or two. Should be smooth with no notches or anything dragging. Can you take the fork tubes in each hand and push forward and back inline with the bike. Should not be any play.
I just found a video on YouTube and it should help you.


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Check head bearings by putting the bike on the center stand. Raising the front wheel off the ground. Slowly turn the handle bars from lock to lock with a finger or two. Should be smooth with no notches or anything dragging. Can you take the fork tubes in each hand and push forward and back inline with the bike. Should not be any play.
I just found a video on YouTube and it should help you.


Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
I overhauled my Goldwing forks last week. There was no play using the method you describe above. It is the way I have always checked my forks for play. Only when I had the front wheel out of the bike did I discover that the right fork leg had about 1/8 to 1/16th's of play in it and it needed new bushings and guides.
 

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I overhauled my Goldwing forks last week. There was no play using the method you describe above. It is the way I have always checked my forks for play. Only when I had the front wheel out of the bike did I discover that the right fork leg had about 1/8 to 1/16th's of play in it and it needed new bushings and guides.
But your head bearings were good correct? A lot of people do not replace fork bushings or fluid like they should. That oil is working hard and the bushings need replacing when the Teflon coating is starting to go.
It's kinda like people who replace their car oil religiously but when you ask if they replace their transmission fluid on time you get that deer in the headlight look and a... HUH?

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Hey Tamathumper,

I know this is off topic but if you traveled to South Mountain you were in my backyard. The herd of deer locally has expanded significantly and really keeps me on my toes. I'm presuming you hiked the High Shoals Falls trail. Beautiful.

Glad you two "dodged the bullet". Look me up next time your in neighborhood.

NCBirdMan
(aka Keith)
 
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But your head bearings were good correct? A lot of people do not replace fork bushings or fluid like they should. That oil is working hard and the bushings need replacing when the Teflon coating is starting to go.
It's kinda like people who replace their car oil religiously but when you ask if they replace their transmission fluid on time you get that deer in the headlight look and a... HUH?

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I also replaced the steering head bearings with Allballs tapered roller bearings but the play at the end of the fork leg was the fork bushings. Someone had been in there before on my newly acquired 04. The fork oil looked fairly new.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
But your head bearings were good correct? A lot of people do not replace fork bushings or fluid like they should. That oil is working hard and the bushings need replacing when the Teflon coating is starting to go.
It's kinda like people who replace their car oil religiously but when you ask if they replace their transmission fluid on time you get that deer in the headlight look and a... HUH?

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Forks have been refreshed twice in the last three years, once when I got the bike, and once when I blew a seal trailering it.
 
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