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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Hey Tamathumper,

I know this is off topic but if you traveled to South Mountain you were in my backyard. The herd of deer locally has expanded significantly and really keeps me on my toes. I'm presuming you hiked the High Shoals Falls trail. Beautiful.

Glad you two "dodged the bullet". Look me up next time your in neighborhood.

NCBirdMan
(aka Keith)
Great, thanks for letting me know. PM sent.
 

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Glad you made it!!! The wobble could still be the tire. But how are the brake pads and rotors? It’s possible that the brakes are glazed and the extreme brake application caused irregularities in performance. I’d also confirm steering head bearing integrity. Balls or tapered in it currently? My experienced rider coarse had me slipping both tires to the point the instructor told me “no more’. It’s impressive to see that big a bike stopping like that, but I don’t want to be picking that thing up”.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Checked the head bearings, and there is just the slightest detent in the center, with little perceptible front-to-back motion in the forks.
 

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Checked the head bearings, and there is just the slightest detent in the center, with little perceptible front-to-back motion in the forks.
Now put all 900# of the wing and you and the passenger and any leverage of force's and you could get a wobble or shake. The stock bearings are known to not be the best. Ride it down a smooth rode that isn't crowned much and put the cruise on and take your hands off the grips... just a bit and ready to recover them in an instant and see of they shake or wobble with no braking force on it. Either way if you can feel the notch they are on their way to be needing replaced in the near future.

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I've taken my hands off the bars, (ever so slightly away from the bars, but not touching) and actually did so that day, and there's no wobble.
 
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Braking is stable for me at maximum but I hear the front tyre kinda hushing on the road and the rear tyre just about chirping sometimes. A couple of things you mentioned; 40psi is pretty high for a front tyre, you need that tyre to flatten a bit under maximum braking to increase the tyre contact patch. E4 for me were poor gripping especially under braking, so bad I removed them after a few hundred miles and Stones are on instead. However, E4 will give you more miles, it's a compromise. Don't pull the clutch until the very last moment, engine braking adds a bit of straight-line stability and a little more deceleration - in an emergency every little is worth having.

The sensation of a very small notch straight ahead on the steering when the wheel is elevated is pretty normal after just a few thousand miles, it's difficult not the get a little indent since most riding is in that central position. Obviously it shouldn't be hugely noticeable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
The sensation of a very small notch straight ahead on the steering when the wheel is elevated is pretty normal after just a few thousand miles, it's difficult not the get a little indent since most riding is in that central position. Obviously it shouldn't be hugely noticeable.
Honestly don't remember if I pulled in the clutch or not. Everything puckered at once, so it's possible, LOL.

The notch isn't nearly as noticeable as some of the videos I watched on steering head bearings, but it's still something I'll get taken care of.

Waiting for a dry day to go find an abandoned parking lot and grab a ton of brakes to see if I can replicate the situation.
 
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Honestly don't remember if I pulled in the clutch or not. Everything puckered at once, so it's possible, LOL.

The notch isn't nearly as noticeable as some of the videos I watched on steering head bearings, but it's still something I'll get taken care of.

Waiting for a dry day to go find an abandoned parking lot and grab a ton of brakes to see if I can replicate the situation.
I do agree that 40# on the front is high. It will cause a more likely failure of the abs due to lower friction and lock your tire.

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I dont think the ABS cares what the tire pressure is. It senses loss of rotation and pulsates the brake pressure .
I am wondering why you modulated the brakes rather than let the ABS do its job. But I wasnt behind the bars . Once they started moving modulating may have been the best move.
With an 03 and 07 ABS I have been fortunate not to have used maximum braking or didnt know the ABS was working for me.
 

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Honestly don't remember if I pulled in the clutch or not. Everything puckered at once, so it's possible, LOL.

The notch isn't nearly as noticeable as some of the videos I watched on steering head bearings, but it's still something I'll get taken care of.

Waiting for a dry day to go find an abandoned parking lot and grab a ton of brakes to see if I can replicate the situation.
Just be wary of the junk in those parking lots. the safety course instructors had us sweep the course before we used it. We used leaf blowers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I modulated the brakes because the handlebars shook hard once, side to side, but grabbed them again because the deer's feet and legs were disappearing under the dash, :oops: , and they shook again when I grabbed them the second time.

To be honest, this was a full pucker, grab everything you got, avoid the oncoming traffic, avoid the deer running in front of the bike, keep it upright, don't scare the wife any more than you have to because you want her to ride again moment.

She has already chalked it up to the "first near miss". I probably only get two of those. One more this season, and you'll be seeing "Ladies Riding Boots, Size 7, Used Twice" in the Classifieds.
 

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I dont think the ABS cares what the tire pressure is. It senses loss of rotation and pulsates the brake pressure .
I am wondering why you modulated the brakes rather than let the ABS do its job. But I wasnt behind the bars . Once they started moving modulating may have been the best move.
With an 03 and 07 ABS I have been fortunate not to have used maximum braking or didnt know the ABS was working for me.
It has been found that high pressure in the front tire can allow it to lock up. The science and equations for the Goldwing ABS was with the Bridgestone tire at recommended tire pressure. Many people have the front tire at 42# to try and keep it from cupping or get more mileage out of it. I used to. Higher air pressure causes as stated above a smaller contact patch and the wheel will lock up. Happened to me on my 2012 on dry pavement with 42# in the tire out in Wyoming when my daughter slowed down dramatically to look at something just as we were moving away from a stop sign. I grabbed as much brakes as I could at approx 40 mph. I let go as fast as I could when the tire.started to skid and I steered to the left of her. I too wondered about why the ABS didn't work. Everything I had have looked at since points to high air pressure which makes the tire harder which lowers the friction/contact patch. ABS will lock up. Since I put my front down to 34 it rides much better.
Video below is one of the better explanations that I have seen.
I can attest to the fact that my tires do not cup at all now I upgraded my suspension. I wear them out much sooner than 15,000 miles as I have discovered the Appalachian mountains and roads.



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I cant answer this question if you are looking specifically for responses from owners of ABS equipped motorcycles . But when I've had to make hard stops on my non ABS Goldwing, they have been smooth and predictable.
 

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A couple of summers ago I was riding one up on my 2013 non ABS going about 45-50mph when a black bear and cub bolted across the road in front of me up in Montana. I applied max breaking and released when I felt the front of the bike start to wash out. When I released the brakes the steering snapped back hard enough to lightly sprain my right wrist. The big bear easily crossed in front of me and the cub in tow miraculously escaped when he hit the brakes hard with all 4 and stopped inches from my highway peg as I rolled by. My decision was to stay up and just hit the cub at that point. My brother in-law was behind me on a Spyder and rolled through my blue smoke.

I thought the bike actually handled very very well for me. Nothing happened so fast I couldn’t react to it.

This incident was the reason I now ride a 2018 with ABS. I decided I wanted ABS after that.
 

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On my bikes I go out and do full boat stops from 65mph so I know how everything behaves.
My 2012 GW had the smoothest ABS brakes I think I've ever felt. I could only tell the ABS was doing anything when it was smooth pavement and I KNEW I was pulling deep into ABS territory.
 

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On a group ride, I was riding 2nd. The lead rider (on a CVO with motor work) pulled out to pass a truck. I was on my new '18 Goldwing. I dropped it into Sport Mode and followed him. He had pulled out first, so I had some room behind him to accelerate. He was nearing the front of the trunk when oncoming traffic appeared. I thought we had plenty of time to clear the truck. He didn't, and nailed his brakes. I'm coming up behind him, on the speed limiter at 112, when he hit his brakes.

I have never, ever, experienced such strong, controlled braking. Holy crap. I love this bike.
 

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i was riding along and noticed my turn onto a side road real late...grabbed a big handful of front brake (I know they are linked but the race track has trained me to ignore the rear). No drama at all, the front tire started to squeal a little but everything was stable. I was pleasantly surprised.
 
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