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I'd like to put one of these on my bike, only thing I need something that can handle 15 amps per circuit for my heated clothing.
Their page says their fuse box will only handle 10 amps per circuit.
With a total of 30 amps.
Not to sure I like the relay being sodered in either.
 

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I bought a fuse block off ebay. No bells and whistles to it. Just 8 fuse slots and one input and output for each. I connected the inputs so I have 4 always hot circuits and 4 switched circuits. Put the block in the left passenger box and there is still plenty of room to store stuff in there. Cost was minimal when compared to any of the other blocks marketed to the motorcycle community. The best part is it uses the same style fuses as the wing so I don't need to carry different types of fuses with me.
 

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I'd like to put one of these on my bike, only thing I need something that can handle 15 amps per circuit for my heated clothing.
Their page says their fuse box will only handle 10 amps per circuit.
With a total of 30 amps.
Not to sure I like the relay being sodered in either.
John, you may need the PC-8 from Eastern Beaver. The fuse panel has a total capacity of 60 Amps (40A/20A - switched/unswitched) with a max circuit capacity of 20 Amps (15A continuous).
 

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I'd like to put one of these on my bike, only thing I need something that can handle 15 amps per circuit for my heated clothing.
Their page says their fuse box will only handle 10 amps per circuit.
With a total of 30 amps.
Not to sure I like the relay being sodered in either.
In that case, what you need is one of the RIGrunner power distribution blocks from PowerWerx...
http://www.powerwerx.com/powerpole-power-distribution/rigrunner-4004-usb.html#desc




I have the 4005H model, with the inputs on the side....
http://www.powerwerx.com/powerpole-power-distribution/rigrunner-4005h-horizontal.html




The draw back to this type of distribution block is the need to use Anderson Powerpole connectors, which by the way are really nice. Crimp,solder or both... they are really sweet to work with...
 

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Take a look at the Electrical Connection Fuse Block for the GL1800...

 

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Fuse block

Here are a couple post earlier this year. It describes how I installed a Centech AP-1 fuse block.


2008 GL1800 ABS, Comfort and Nav ... if it makes a difference.

I have a Centech AP-1 fuse block with a Relay Wiring Kit.

The wiring kit has three wires ....
1) "hot" positive battery wire
2) "ground" negative wire (either to the neg post on the battery or someplace else on the bike
3) "low current source" wire that they suggest you hook into the tail lamp.

Ideally I would like to have the fuse block turn off when the ignition is off. Where and what wire do I attach the "low current source" wire to? Can I attach the "low current source" wire to the ACC Terminal post in the fuse box on the left side of the bike?

Right now Im interested in mounting the AP-1 in the hidden CD compartment in the bottom of the top case.

I hope all that made sense. Thanks

OK
After a couple of hours the AP-1 is in and seems to be working. Red wire to Battery POS, Black wire to ground and relay wire to ACC Terminal in the fuse box on the Left side of the bike. The fuse box comes alive in both the ON and ACC position on the ignition.

I know its only 5A but all I needed was a low current source to activate the relay on the fuse block. Anyone have any concerns about the 5A?

The plans are for two Gerbing outlets and one 3 socket cigarette type outlet for charging basics like an iPhone.
 

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Generic fuse block. less than $10. More work, but you can make a custom block that fits your needs.


 

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Easterb Beaver PC-8 get the harness with the external relay and make it all plug and play. Introducing the Power Center 8 pc8-final top-open top-open-wired Size (not including mounting ears): 81mm x 58 mm x 30mm (3 1/4" x 2 1/4" x 1 1/8") - (l/w/h) Specifications and Features: - Installation Page Here. PDF Install File Here. - 4 threaded insert nuts provide case mounting and fuse panel installation mounting points - comes with an assortment of 8 ATM fuses, one for each output circuit - 2 unswitched circuits, 6 switched circuits, 8 ground outputs (Switched circuits are turned off when the bike is shut down. An unswitched circuit is always hot.) - takes ATM mini blade fuses for compactness - maximum fuse panel capacity 60 Amps (40A/20A - switched/unswitched) - maximum circuit capacity 20 Amps (15A continuous) - maximum output wire size 12 AWG (3 sqmm) - all hardware (except input posts whick are tin plated steel) is stainless steel - black satin polycarbonate cover makes unit splash-proof yet allows it to breathe - cover mounting tabs on each end can be broken off or left on, depending on mounting choice - simple robust design means no overheating and no problems with vibration - I designed this fuse panel with ease of mounting a priority. Therefore there are many mounting options: Dual Lock on back of case, fine threaded screws from back of panel, self tapping screws from inside through PCB inserts to panel, or nuts and screws on the case mounting ears at each end of the case. See further down this page for optional mounting accessory choices. I used 2 machine screws on opposite corners of the mounting tabs for my VStrom installation (This is from eastern beavers site.) Link in a previous post above. Had mine for about 2 years and no issues so far. Me and the missus have our Gerbings plugged in. My liner and gloves,her liner ,gloves, socks and sometimes pants. Plus my switchblock on top of my front brake cylinder is wired into it also.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for all the replies. I now have a new posting concerning installation. Once again, I appreciate any feedback.

Ed
 
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