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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is a minor problem that has been driving me nuts. The gap on the right side of trunk lid is much larger than the gap on the left side. Anyone know the proper why to adjust this so they are the same?





Thanks
 

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You know, that is funny because I have the same
problem. I loosened every bolt & screw visual.
I kinda aped it in the direction I wanted. I re-
tightened all, and it was right back the exact same
way :shock:
 

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I just ordered a set from the site Leroy recommended. They said they have another batch in production and should be sending out 1st week or so in April. I talked to Bob and recieved good customer service.
 

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There are many ways to stop the rubbing, but no way to REALLY fix the gap difference. If you "adjust" the lid to make the left and right even, you will find the gap at the rear section of the lid (where the key is) will go out of alignment and the lid will rub somewhere else. Also the lid may not close correctly usually with some extraneous torque on the lid and latch mechanism. The lid was not designed right... that's the long and the short of it and been that way for 4 years.
 
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I've never noticed a differance in the gaps...I'll have to look! I have noticed my trunk lid rattling.

Elk are those painted on graphics? I like em
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I already have the Rubber Bumbers installed to keep the wear, squeek and rattle out. (I sold out of them on eBay.) I had the problem before and after installation. I see how those bumpers mounted on top work as a stop though. Surely there is an mechanical adjustment!

 

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I had the same problem and I looked at the website for the bumpers that Leroy suggested and it appears to me that they would strike on the rubber seal. I did something similar to ELKK just put enough of the felt pads on to create a gap. Haven't done the tubing in seal thingy, but this seems like a viable fix.
 

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I've had the Rubber Baby Buggy Bumpers installed on my '01 since October last year. I have tried all the other solutions ( foam on the hinges, tubing in the seal, Teflon tape on the sides and small rubber bumpers on the vertical sides of the trunk lid) and none of them worked.

The Rubber Baby Buggy Bumpers will stop the rubbing of the trunk lid and make the trunk lid gap even on both sides. If you carry a passenger the protective strips or bumpers on the side of the lower trunk will not stop the rubbing of the trunk lid as the trunk lid will still rub on the outer lip of the lid.
If installed correctly per the instructions they don't contact the trunk seal. The trunk lid will be a little harder to close and open at first but that will go away after some use.

http://www.dixonymachine.com/RBBB.htm
 

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The problem might be the wiring routed around the right hinge.. I installed an alarm system in the trunk lid (replacing the remote receiver) and had to route some additional wiring along the path of the factory harness..

When I was adding the tubing to the trunk gasket, I noticed the gap diff and decided to reroute my additional wiring (no effect) I then redirected the factory harness and the trunk shut evenly!! When I get the time, I'll reroute all the wiring and tie it down correctly.. That's a lot of wires to bend that tightly around the hinges and other sharp cutty things....
 

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I concur with Punkin..I re-routed all the wiring to the trunk, and the gap on the right side disappeared.
If you don't do this, at least keep an eye on your wiring. Especially the speaker wiring. Mine was pinched and cut in several places.
 

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Hey John,
How did you reroute and tiedown your harness? I just tucked it in behond the seat for now, but will be dressing it in perminantly this weekend.. Pictures? If not I'll post some from mine once I get in there..
 

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the problem as i saw it was how the outer shell of the truck lid sat on the inner shell.
if you open the trunk and look at how it is constructed, you will see that it is the inner lid or liner or shell or whatever you call it has the rubber gasket that makes contact with the base. if you somehow prop up the inner lid, you are also reducing the contact with the base. without crawling inside, it is difficult to tell if the gasket is still making full contact with the base when it is propped up with some sort of spacer. the point of this is that it is the inner shell that determines how the lid seals.
so, just for a moment, lets assume that the inner lid is sealing correctly. that is, when the trunk is closed, the gasket is compressed equally all the way around. now, looking at the gap of the outer lid in comparison to the trunk base, what is observed? on mine, the gap was larger on one side. so, is it possible that the outer shell is molded slightly different side to side? maybe, but this is what i had to work with.
so, my conclusion is to leave the inner shell alone. that is what is doing the sealing and maybe it is the outer shell that needs some tweaking.
here is what i did:
i removed the inner shell and sat with it at the kitchen table. i had purchased a bunch of washers that would fit around the screws that hold it to the outer shell. thinking about where the gap was, i stacked the washers up over the holes that the screws go through. toward the center, i placed one, for and aft. then as i worked my way toward the left, i added another washer. way over on the left edge, i placed 3. i tacked all of them in place with super glue and made sure the screws would go through without ripping the little stack of washers off.
back out in the garage, i reassembled the inner lid and tightened the screws very lightly. then, inspecting the results, i could tell that this was going to work. so, thinking that with 3 little washers would reduce the number of threads that grip the out shell, i took out one of the screws and headed back to the hardware store and got a few slightly longer screws.
back home, i put it all together and snugged everything down.
that was 2 summers ago and it hasn't changed since.
just a thought,
geek
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Geek,

So if I understand, you made the gap larger on one side to equal the already larger gap on the other side. Is that correct?
 

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elkk said:
Geek,

So if I understand, you made the gap larger on one side to equal the already larger gap on the other side. Is that correct?
one side was good and the other a little tight.
i added the washers to the side that was tight so that it matched the side that looked good.
that's my story and i'm stickin' to it. . .
geek
 

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I placed a small rubber bumper in the hinge area on the left side which holds the left side up some when closed. I did this on my 02 and on my 04 and have had no leak problems. I also placed nylon tape on the edges of the trunk to help with the rub problem and it works well. See the attatched photos.


 

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Here is my solution:

The wires were getting in the way of the hinges, causing the trunk to gap by not fully shutting...(I had previously moved the trunk harness.)
Imagine how much the big wire harness would interfere with the trunk hinges...


This is what happens when the hinges interfere with the speaker wires...


...So I moved the wires...



Here's where I ran them, in the speaker pod. I drilled a new hole...



There is a gap in the pod that allows the wires to fit nicely without binding the hinges for the trunk...



Note the OEM hole location for the speaker wires between the hinges, and the location of the clip that held the main trunk harness...


No more gap...left side..


...Right side...
 

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P.S.,

the reason for the gap on the right side of the trunk is due to the large trunk harness not allowing the trunk to fully close.

Instead of just adjusting the left side gap to match the right, I eliminated the gaps altogether. I use small felt pads to prevent rubbing.
...And yes, I know...my bike is filthy. :roll:

I noticed that some bikes have the speaker wires routed differently.

At first, I used the OEM wire clips to secure the speaker wires and routed them as per factory instructions. Also, my trunk had a very bad gap on the right side from Day One.

I tried to move the speaker wires to the outside of the hinges as seen in the photos of the red bike, above. Look closely and notice that the speaker wire still passes close to the hinge, but to the outside instead of the middle of the hinge. Also, it looks as if the speaker wire is actually still being closed or pinched between the trunk halves, and folding back on itself, and possibly causing a break in the wire.
I'm not trying to start anything with you Steve, It's just my opinion of what I see.


I still had problems with the wires binding in the hinges.
I then moved the wires to the inside of the hinges but they still interfered and got pinched.

I finally got tired of the problems and tore the whole trunk lid and speaker pods off and studied the situation. I removed the inner trunk liner and put everything back together but the trunk still gapped.

that's when I decided to move the harness and speaker wires.
 

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John,
Thanx for the pix... I'll be dressing it up this weekend and I'll take some of my own...(Maybe dirty my bike up too!!)

Geek - Your idea of shimming the lid is a good solution for keeping the lid completely off the edges! I put the tubing in the gasket but it still sits a little low for my tastes (even though it's even & level due to the wiring harness being re-routed)
After reading your post, I think I'm going to try a line of thin, hard weatherstripping between the inner and outer shell.. That ought'a keep the lid a bit higher and allow everything to stay put!! (Even when the trunk rack is loaded)

Thanx for the info..
 
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