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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My opener has a 12 volt battery so I soldered a jumper across the remote's door open switch. Then soldered two wires to the circuit board (of the remote) where the battery hooks up. I left the battery out. I ran battery neg. to chassis ground, and the other to the High beam relay output. I put the remote in a sandwich bag, tied it shut, then I tywrapped the remote under the seat. After testing it out I put everything back together.

Now when I pull up to the garage I just hit the high beams and the door opens.

Now, time will tell if it all keeps working.

This means that whenever I have the high beams on I'll know because everyones garage doors will open when I drive past their house.

Just kidding, I hardly ever use my high beams anyway.



Bryansong
 

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bryansong said:
My opener has a 12 volt battery so I soldered a jumper across the remote's door open switch. Then soldered two wires to the circuit board (of the remote) where the battery hooks up. I left the battery out. I ran battery neg. to chassis ground, and the other to the High beam relay output. I put the remote in a sandwich bag, tied it shut, then I tywrapped the remote under the seat. After testing it out I put everything back together.

Now when I pull up to the garage I just hit the high beams and the door opens.

Now, time will tell if it all keeps working.

This means that whenever I have the high beams on I'll know because everyones garage doors will open when I drive past their house.

Just kidding, I hardly ever use my high beams anyway.



Bryansong
Problem is that your remote is on when you have your high beams on. Jon http://www.usi-seattle.com/jon/goldwinglights.htm has a very affordable solution. Cost is $10 and a 1/2 hour with a soldering gun. I believe he also sells a plug n play for those uninclined to use a soldering iron.
 

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Relay location

Where is the high-beam relay located? I've been toying with the idea of crossing over my horn wire with the high-beam relay. That way when someone is coming into my lane, they get both a visual and audible alert.

Peter...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Jim,

Thanks for the direction. I am an Electronics Technician by trade so I will be able to assemble and solder the kit. I don't use my high beams very much now but it is probably a good idea to disable the remote from extended use. Here is what I ordered.


http://www.hobbytron.net/vmk111.html


Bryansong



Peter,

That High beam relay is under the seat. There is a black box that is full of relays but on the cover it will tell you which one is for the high beam.



Again,

Bryansong
 

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darmes said:
Bryansong, Let me know if you the timers from hobbytron. I've had several on order since Decmber. They tell me they may be available in April.
Good luck...

I've got a bounty out for these timers - I've ordered from every vendor that sells these, and even tried to buy them direct from Velleman. Velleman sent me an e-mail yesterday "promising" an April 16th date for them to receive their order from abroad.

How long it takes them to filter through the distribution channel, I don't know, but I should have about 40 of them by the time they show up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Jon,

I finally put it together. You're the Goldwinggadget guy.

Hey, thank you for the information. I agree that if I had the plug-n Play it would have been much easier. I started to go up front first.

You said that the relay kits aren't due til sometine in April. I guess I'll have to wait

I'm going right now to bookmark your site for future needs.


Bryansong
 
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I ordered the relay timer last week and received it Monday of this week.

Will be installing the opener tomorrow.

Ruggybear
 

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WingNut43 said:
A suggestion: Put a switch in line where you can disable the opener. I check my lights from time to time and I would not want the door opener to work when I'm checking! Especially if my bike is under the door!!!! :eek:ops2:

:oops: A good idea (don't ask how I know)....but now my antenna is not as straight as it use to be......
 

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Would this be a good time to say I carry my door opener in my pocket and poke at it with my thumb as I'm going down my driveway? :D
 

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KISS principal

Why all this electronics and Connectors?

Did anyone think about wiring the remote into the turn signal cancel switch? It's a grounded (ie: not in the key scan matrix) switch. One wire from the switch, the other side to AUX power and you are done (I put in Diode Isolation because I am paranoid though)

I have enough range for the garage remote that I have not even turned on the signals to turn into the garage yet. Thus the cancel being used to operate the hidden, integrated, "can't steal what you can't see" garage remote is not even a nuisance.

I have determined the real ability to provide integrated features in the Goldwing is not the electronics, the idea, or the inspiration; but being able to find the connectors to mate ...
 

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Kiss sys...

Sal, if I have this straight all I need to do is open up the switch panel on the left handlebar, solder a wire to the 'ground'? wire on the turn signal switch, ( is it the center wire?), run it down the riser to the hidden remote. Then run another wire from the fuse panel 'aux' point to the remote and 'presto', push the turn signal cancel and the garage door open/closes?? If I can get it to work, I love it already :lol:
Jim W. Blk 03ABS
 

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Use the horn

Why couldn't you use the horn to power up the door opener? :lol: Paul
 

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Delivering the Promise

Sheesh, now I have to deliver the promise? I want to ride instead ;->

The access point is the signal canceller unit which is in the middle just ahead of the key. You will need to take the center console off to access this connector. Pin 4 on it's six pin connector contains the switched signal. Pin 2 is the Aux Power. As you see, all signals you need are there.

I spiced into the wires instead, if I could do this again, I'd acquire a pair of connectors to make this more of a plug-n-play installaction ... I'd suggest that you poke thin bared-on-the-end wires into the female end of the connector then mate them. Use the pigtails to operate the remote. Less intrusive.

There was a recent discussion about how to remove these panel pieces to address the cruise control, the link offered up was http://www.thehubers.net/goldwing/cruise_control.htm which may help.

An alternative if you wish to poke around for the switched signal and pick an different location for everything is C24, pin 10 which is underneath the right locking fairing pocket. C22 and C24 are the pair of large light green connectors, C24 is the one closest to the front of the bike. I think the 2004 has changed this connector's pinout.
 

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Use the horn Luke

4shorts said:
Why couldn't you use the horn to power up the door opener? :lol: Paul
The problem is, I can never find that darn horn button when I need it! Last time I paniced and ended up muting the stereo instead! A lot of good that did ...

Last thing I need is to be driving at full speed to my bat cave desperately trying to trigger the garage remote! Let me see, mute is horn, cancel is trunk release, CB channel up is the high beam, reverse switch is ... no ... no ... mute is cancel, cancel is high beam ... no ... Merde!

:roll:
 
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