[mwagner]

Hi all, this is my 2nd attempt at posting so apologize if you are seeing double. Ready to throw a match at this thing after 3 hours of tugging. Took four screws out holding the air box in to move it forward enough for the front tank tags to clear. Had to cut a hose to get it off the tank so now have to get the tank out to replace the hose that I assume goes to the carb. Left rear tank corner just wont clear the wiring harness. I can't even move it out of the way. Shifting the tank forward isn't enough Do I also need to remove the fuse panel? Attached pics showing tank is tilted up I the front. I am not able to get the left rear corner out to roll the tank so right rear can clear the frame. On my first attempt at making this post it failed while I was trying to attach pic so this time will save the thread and then try to attach the pics. Hoping those that have been here before might remember a trick or tip that worked for them. Thanks, Mike. Wits end in Oregon WI.

 

[mwagner]

Attaching Pics and hope they are viewable for you.

 

[pwhoever]

Try liberally spraying some silicone spray on the sides and make sure gas cap is off. It's a tight squeeze but it will come out. And tilt it while pulling to the right hand side.

 

[pwhoever]

And pull hard. These tanks are very tough and it will be hard for you to break one...

 

[JayB]

It’s a bear but like others said spray with silicone spray, pull up on the front, twist and goes out to the right side of the bike.

 

[eddiepants]

Did mine along time ago and I believe I had to loosen the battery housing and the fuse panel. Have you checked Youtube for any videos on this ?

 

[tamathumper]

Take the one screw out of the top of the bracket that holds the battery box in, that'll give you an inch or more of "play".

I just did this last week, and didn't have to take any screws out at the front to make room.

I sprayed the tank liberally with silicone spray on that back corner, and it took some wiggling, but after 10 seconds of back-and-forth I figured it out.

If you cut the vent hose off the filler neck, you can probably replace that without having to remove the tank.

 

[markgaeth]

Take out the battery box and the bottom tank support which is connected to the battery box and rear plastic fender liner. It is a pain but doable. Also drain / siphon out as much fuel as possible.

 

[GoldWingrGreg]

I remove many, as in hundreds, and would never use silicone spray. It'll stay behind, leave a coating, and collect road dirt. I also never remove the battery box, or fuel tank stay.

Here is how I do them.

First, does the tank have less than 1/4 tank of gas ??? The lighter a fuel tank is the easier they are to handle. If not, plug the pump and sensor back in, and re-install the pressure hose. Then route the return hose that comes from the engine into a fuel container, start the engine, and allow the tank to empty. Leave it run until the tank is below 1/4 tank.

Occasionally, I will spray the left rear side of the fuel tank with Brake Clean (red). It sounds like the ECM stay is already loose and pulled forward. The next thing is the bracket for the battery must be removed. Be sure to grab the bolt's collar before it is lost. Next is to check the upper, right frame pipe. Your problem is probably there. There can be no CB antenna cable, or wire harness, that limits the tank rotating towards and against the right frame pipe. Sometimes I'll have to remove some nylon ties and reposition anything that reduces the gap between the tank and the frame pipe. Once all that is done, stand on the right side of the bike, spray the left, rear side of the of the fuel tank with Brake Clean, grab the 2 left mount tabs, and begin to rotate and pull towards your chest as you are leaning over it. Sometimes it takes 2-3 strong tugs. As you are doing it, watch for any interference at the right frame pipe area.

When I reinstall, and once I get the tank into position, most always I spray the left rear side of the tank with Brake Clean. Be sure the lower part of your airbox is re-installed prior to re-installing the fuel tank. To remove the tank, the air box does not need to be removed, and it is nearly impossible to reinstall once the tank is back in.

 

[mwagner]

EUREKA!!! Low and behold it's out. What I thought was a fuse panel was full of relays. Removed two screws and carefully flipped it over to the left and those two large bundles of wire came with it. Still some resistance along the left side in front of the battery. Yes, I had already disconnected the battery cable and strap so it could flex out of the way some. Anyway it is out!!! The left front tank screw was out but didn't notice the big fender washer was still on the rubber tab. Well not any more, was swallowed up in one of those mysterious Honda Holes. F%&#$Me. I know why my shock wasn't moving till around 20. It is caked in oily dirt and crud. Must have been leaking out for some time now. Will clean up as much as I can before taking it out. Thanks to all for your help and don't go to far. Still need to put it back together. I hope swapping out the air filter won't be a chore. Everyone said the air box needn't be loosened but I needed a good 1/2 inch to get the tank tabs to clear it.

 

[Richard Clem]

I found that using a grocery store plastic bag was cheaper than spraying stuff.
Richard