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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
UPshifting or downshifting unless done smartly and quickly almost always I can feel my gears hitting against each other and not smoothly dropping into place....lately sometimes it drops out of 4 th geare on the upshift down to third and wow what an unpleasant experience that is.

Have adjusted the 5 position wheel on the clutch shift lever numerous times and it does not take care of the problem, but seems a little better in Number 5 position..but have to hold the lever against the handlegrip firmly, and the slightest release engages the clutch so it begins to move forward.

Is it possible to have a bad shift fork problem with 3500 miles on it...it is a new 06 Airbag model....has been this way out of the dealership.....

Just seems to be getting worse.....my 1500 never had this problem..changed to Amsoil a week ago and it did not help the smoothness of shifting as it always did on my previous 1500.

Any ideas or recommendations would be appreciated...of course I have the warranty extended....just a pain in the butt to drive it over and see what kind of sob story they will offer me..

Thanks....
 

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It sounds like your is not fully disengaging. You should have more play when you let the cluth lever out before it engages. Sounds like a trip to the shop is needed. If it had a clutch cable then it would just need to be adjusted but since it is hydraulic I am not sure if there is an adjustment for it. I am not at home so I cannot look in my manual to see if there is an adjustment Sorry!
 
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Basspro, could be air in the clutch line, bleed it and see if that makes a difference . You also may want to look down at the shift lever as well and make sure the bolt is tight so it doesn't move at all on the spline .

BTW do you have floorboards ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Shifting problems....

All bolts are tight and clean as a pin...have had this problem out the door with this new wing.....another member on another site said he had just replaced his shift forks inside the transmission and that made it a whole new bike!

But Honda is arguing about covering it under warranty. He paid for it out of his pocket and trying to get them to reimburse him.

My bike is doing exactly the same thing as his......so I am convinced now more than ever it is a shift fork internal problem.....I have had many Jap bikes and never crunched or clanked the gears when shifting....whether it was slow up or downshifting.

I just can't believe this is going on with a brand new machine....the front wheel was bent out of the showroom floor too...they did replace that under warranty with no problem...it wobbled at 35 mph badly......

But I will go over there and let my mechanic look and see what they say......don't think there is air in the line.....the crunching is under my left toe....
 

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I learned a very valuable tip last summer from a local Goldwing repair tech guru first on my GL1200 but he told me even brand new 1800s get air in the clutch master cylinder. First, spread plastic all over the fairing underneath the clutch master cylinder (on the left handle bar) so the fluid doesn't get spilled on the paint, (which it will damage-so be careful).
Second, clean the clutch master cylinder cap and remove it, pump up the clutch 3 or 4 times to get the air to collect at the banjo bolt. Third with a cup underneath the banjo bolt, loosen the banjo bolt and let the air/fluid mixture out of the master cylinder while holding the clutch in and after the fluid comes out a little bit lightly snug the banjo bolt. Do this 3 or 4 times to purge all the air out of the clutch master cylinder-repeat as necessary. I had a real problem with this on my GL1200 last summer (it was so bad, the engine would stall when I came up to a stoplight even with the clutch all the way in),
and bleeding the clutch master cylinder fixed it like magic WITHOUT having to take it in to the dealer. My tech buddy said the air works its way into the cylinder while the bike is sitting over the winter time and he bleeds lots of clutches in the spring. I also changed the clutch fluid at this time using a vacuum pump, (instead of buying 1 of the expense ones at the auto parts stores, I had been saving my wife's breast pump (it's the same pump), from 15 years ago, it works great) and I have used it for all my auto vacuum stuff. Anyway, I vacuum most of the fluid into a plastic resealable bottle and refill the clutch master cylinder with new fluid a couple times until the clutch fluid is clean. Make sure to dispose of the fluid at the proper disposal facility, (don't pollute). Tighten the banjo bolt, reinstall the master cylinder cover and check for leaks. Make sure to wipe everything down with soapy water so the paint doesn't get damaged.
Best of luck, Don W.
 

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Can you say visit to the Dealer. You paid for your warranty. They did not "Give" it to you. If you fix it, Honda does not know that a problem exists.

Help us other Goldwingers in letting Honda know that they need to look at quality, quality control, etc.

Bulldog
 

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BassPro

I have the same problem with my 2006. Only does in 2nd gear but sometimes it really shifts hard and rough into 2nd and only after the motor gets warmed up. Only have 1200 miles on and was hoping in gets better after a few thousand. Already change to Mobil 1 but did not seem to help.

You mentioned the little wheel with numbers on it. What is the purpose as I did not notice this in the manual for the bike?
 

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cycledude said:
sounds like air in the clutch system, pretty easy to fix

like u i sure hope the problem isn't in the transmission
From your desciption of the problem and the clutch levers performance I agree with air in the clutch system. The wheel adjustment for the levers is just a hand or finger reach adjustment it doesn't effect the actual mechanical function of the clutch. Regardless of lever position you should be able to release the clutch lever the first quarter to third of it's travel before any engagement begins to take place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Don thanks for the comments sounds like an easy repair job if this fixes it. I spent lots of money on the bike and a warranty program and plan to let the Honda mechanic attempt the fix....I should not have to turn a wrench on this new machine at this early stage of the game.

I sure hope it is air in the line, but have had several bikes that never had this problem...even 37000 miles on my 99 SE it worked perfectly from the first day to when I sold it..smooth as butter all the way.

When this thing drops out of gear it is a violent unexpected event.....this transmission is brand new and should work flawlessly...these guys who put them together have specifications and if the part is hard to fit, or incorrect just by feel.....they should have to suffer the indignity to repair it.

By letting Honda know these problems are pronounced by many of their units, maybe they can put the fix in for future models so these things don't become enduring problems for others.

Thanks for your comments guys, I will be in Daytona Beach Saturday to lean on them and post my results here thereafter.....
 

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Basspro said:
Don thanks for the comments sounds like an easy repair job if this fixes it. I spent lots of money on the bike and a warranty program and plan to let the Honda mechanic attempt the fix....I should not have to turn a wrench on this new machine at this early stage of the game.

I sure hope it is air in the line, but have had several bikes that never had this problem...even 37000 miles on my 99 SE it worked perfectly from the first day to when I sold it..smooth as butter all the way.

When this thing drops out of gear it is a violent unexpected event.....this transmission is brand new and should work flawlessly...these guys who put them together have specifications and if the part is hard to fit, or incorrect just by feel.....they should have to suffer the indignity to repair it.

By letting Honda know these problems are pronounced by many of their units, maybe they can put the fix in for future models so these things don't become enduring problems for others.

Thanks for your comments guys, I will be in Daytona Beach Saturday to lean on them and post my results here thereafter.....
The dropping out of gear thing or into a lower gear sounds like a incomplete shift. HHHmmmm, it could be the dreaded bent shifter fork problem. I can and do occassionally make clutchless shifts on mine in the upper ranges and it never drops out of gear. You may be on to something after all.
 

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I purchased an 06 Goldwing and have put 25000 miles on it since June 06. My previous bike was a 97 1500 Goldwing which I bought new and put 75000 miles on it. My point is that this 06 has had grinding gears since new and it didn't get any better with mileage or Honda semi synthetic oil. My background is automotive service for 35 years so I understand the transmission and how it works. My previous Goldwing did not grind. The clutch lever adjustment will not fix this and I do not have air in the hydraulic line. The dealer says that "all Japanese bikes shift that way". This is not true. I don't have a heel toe shifter and have not abused the bike. I believe after reading the same symptom from other 06 owners, that there are some shift fork problems out there. The problem is that the fix is a complicated repair and not all shops or technicians are qualified to diagnose and repair shift forks. If you can get the dealer to acknowledge it, do you want them possibly making matters worse? I have the extended warranty but don't know what to do. If anybody has had a dealer address this issue and resolve it, please let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Seems lots better

Took it to Cycle World in Daytona Beach..mechanic test rode it said it was fine..finally after arguing a bit..got them to bleed the lines.....found lots of air in the clear tube while it was vacuuming out the line..replaced with new Honda clutch fluid....this relocated the clutch lever further out...almost all the way out before it began to engage and move forward..

Seems lots better than before.....will drive it this weekend and see how it does...but it is 100% better than before..sure hope we don't have to go inside the tranny....

These guys all want to say there is nothing wrong with it...but when you know your bike, and have driven other bikes without the problem....it is a no brainer...typically most people are too lazy to contemplate tearing the whole Goldwing apart to go inside it..even if they think there is a problem

Air bleeding and labor on this issue was free today....should be with only 4000 miles on the clock.
 

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I'm hoping your dealer services a lot of wings, like a surgeon, ya wanna find one who's got lots of practice doing your procedure

...if it turns out to be a shift fork problem, I would be afraid of letting any old dealer do that repair

Good luck and I hope it's the hydraulic fluid
 

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Try preloading the shifter a little before shifting by lifting up a little than pull the clutch than finish the shift, I read this on here and works real good for me on my 06.
Hazle
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Spoke too soon....clanking still there...after air bleeding

I was too quick to assume all was well..took it for a slow ride around the community and the clunking is still there both in up and down shifting.

Fluids are perfect, oil in transmission is brand new clean as a whistle and at proper level...no air now in the clutch line......

Anyone know of a mechanic or service manager who is receptive to a clanky new transmission not being NORMAL?

That is the next issue is finding someone who is willing to go beyone just saying that is normal Honda Goldwing shifting....
 

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Depends on your definition of "clanky". Do you know anyone else with a GL1800 that will let you ride theirs to compare it to? Maybe you could talk the dealer into letting you ride one of theirs.

All Gl1800's clank some when shifted. Of all the oils I have used, Amsoil seems to result in the smoothest shifting, with Mobil One in second place. You might try a better oil and see if that helps.

Be sure to get the problem documented with your dealership, so that if it does turn out to be a transmission problem later on (like a bent shift fork) then you can prove that the bike had the problem since new. Get something in the dealer record that shows you brought it in for shifting issues when it had low miles (CYA).

I can't say if you have a problem or not without seeing just how rough it is actually shifting. What RPM are you shifting at? Low RPM shifting can make it more clunky. Try shifting a little higher in the RPM range and see if that helps. It sounds to me like you had air in the clutch and that was your initial problem. You may have just become over-sensitized to it now as a result. Try just riding it normally for a few days and don't think about it and see if you still notice it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
It just seems the clutch plates are not releasing far enough to separate the gears so they engage smoothly.....I can really shift it fast on the up shift but tooling around red light to red light is a pain in the butt..and the down shift is not smooth at all.....just doesn't seem right..

I have ridden two other 1800's and not felt this problem.....
 

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Basspro said:
It just seems the clutch plates are not releasing far enough to separate the gears so they engage smoothly.....I can really shift it fast on the up shift but tooling around red light to red light is a pain in the butt..and the down shift is not smooth at all.....just doesn't seem right..

I have ridden two other 1800's and not felt this problem.....
What kind of oil are you using and how often are you changing it?
 

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THE DESCRIPTION OF MY CONDITION IS NOT A CLUNK. I BELIEVE THAT CLUNKING INTO GEAR CAN BE NORMAL AFTER MY PREVIOUS 1500. THE DESCRIPTION OF MY CONDITION IS A RATCHET GRINDING LIKE A NONSYNCHRONIZED GEAR WITHOUT THE CLUTCH. IT IS DEFINITELY NOT OIL TYPE RELATED. I HOPE SOMEBODY IS SUCCESSFUL IN IDENTIFYING AND GETTING THIS REPAIRED. I AM GOING TO PURSUE IT FURTHER AND WILL REPORT IF I GET HELP.
 
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