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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is what I recall:

To disable the anti-dive unit on the 1800, separate the two halves and insert a oil drain plug sealing washer between the two halves and tighten.

There will be no fluid leak, and the two bolts will be long enough to secure the unit with the washer in them.

My ANTI DIVE IS STUCK OR SOMETHING, ROCK SOLID - NO COMPRESSION OF FORKS. TERRIBLE RIDE!!!!!!

IF YOU HAVE MORE CORRECT INFORMATION OF WHAT I HAVE GIVEN, OR IF YOU KNOW OF A BETTER WAY TO GET THIS JOB DON, PLEASE TELL ME!!!!!:shock:

THANKS A BUNCH!!
 

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I got a piece off ebay that was machined to fit in between the anti dive valve off ebay for 20 dollars, no leak, others have used o-rings and even nickles with holes drilled in them.
 

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Cheapest method is a Nickle with a 7/32" hold drilled dead center. Stops the plunger and fits the recess area perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have both a nickle with a hole in it, and a oil drain bolt washer.

Thanks fellows. :cool:

I have just completed to temporary fix. Used the washer.

Brother Richard - next entry down - thanks for the additional info.
 

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Cliff, to each their own. I am not an advocate of disabling the ADV unless you have upgraded your suspension. If the ADV is stuck, I would clean it out and make it operational again. Worse case, I'd replace it. The fact that it is stuck solid leads me to believe proper maintenance was not performed on the bike. This is just one person's opinion, so take it for what it is worth. Good luck with whatever you do.
 

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Good information from everyone, maybe I am missing something here..... Where do these special made or eBay purchased do-dads go on the bike? An illistration or picture would be nice. Inquiring minds want to know.
 

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Good information from everyone, maybe I am missing something here..... Where do these special made or eBay purchased do-dads go on the bike? An illistration or picture would be nice. Inquiring minds want to know.
That do dad comes with two longer bolts. It simply bolts between the upper and lower half of the anti dive valve. The thing costs 20-25 bucks and shipping whatever that might be. Maybe shipping if so called free??

The nickle trick is the best, or if you are sure, just saw the top plunger tit off. Put it back together.
 

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Preacher Cliff. Check out the step by step section in this forum and look for anti dive fixes. Good informatin there. I used some o rings and the problem is solved. I plan to upgrade the front forks and when I do that will disable the ADV but not until then. Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Anti dive

I PUT THE DRAIN BOLT WASHER IN LAST EVENING. GOT MYSELF A "NEW RIDE" IN DOING SO.

THANKS TO EVERYONE FOR THE RESPONSES. I AM NOT AN AGGRESSIVE RIDER AT 76 YEARS OLD. THE SLIGHT "DIVE" when braking causes me no concern.

My greatest concern is daily riding on salted winter snow/ice laden roads. That stuff sure messes up rims and valve covers.

Merry Christmas to all. (Let me LIKELY be the first to say that to you!) IT MAY BE AGAINST THE LAWS OF OUR COUNTRY BY NEXT DECEMBER TO SAY THAT. :popcorn:
 

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I PUT THE DRAIN BOLT WASHER IN LAST EVENING. GOT MYSELF A "NEW RIDE" IN DOING SO.

THANKS TO EVERYONE FOR THE RESPONSES. I AM NOT AN AGGRESSIVE RIDER AT 76 YEARS OLD. THE SLIGHT "DIVE" when braking causes me no concern.

My greatest concern is daily riding on salted winter snow/ice laden roads. That stuff sure messes up rims and valve covers.

Merry Christmas to all. (Let me LIKELY be the first to say that to you!) IT MAY BE AGAINST THE LAWS OF OUR COUNTRY BY NEXT DECEMBER TO SAY THAT. :popcorn:
In most cases, the ADV goes bad from lack of maintanance. The correct fix is to replace the ADV, flush the brake/clutch system. And then flush those systems every 12k. Honda uses the ADV to control the weight from shifting forward. Weight shift lessons and increases the tire patch size on the pavement and under various conditions, the patch size is critical for proper braking and handling. Disabling the ADV means under certain conditions, the rear tire patch is to small for evasive manuvers.

As an example, I recently had a Wing where the rear tire was below the wear bars. The front was ok. Not only would the rear tire loose traction when leaving a stop when turning L or R, but it would take me about 3 states to do a U-turn. The bald tire is an example of contact patch size being correct but because of no tread no traction, it is about the same as good tread with not enought tread hitting the pavement. Both represent no traction when needed most.

Many, here will disagree with this. Many don't maintain their bike as required. Some do and beleive the ADV causes the LF fork seal to blow. Many disable the ADV, OH the forks only to find that the fork seal blows again. Some will loose faith in the ADV because theirs failed before the brakes even needed bleeding. And yes, all that maybe true, but remember, the brake and suspension systems are integrated and are intender to work togeather. The integration is done through the use of an ADV and a working ADV is critical for proper braking and handling. These are big bikes with a lot of weight to control.
 

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If you ADV isn't working,get ir replaced.It's to hard to locate the proper o-rings,or for guys to want to take on the challange.So they opt for a new ADV.

My bike has 93K and the ADV has never been touched because it still works.I guess changing he fluids when you are supposed to does work after all.:shrug:

I've had 10 items go wrong on this bike,but the ADV isn't one of them.
Pisses me off.:eek:4: You guys have all the fun. :wrong:
 

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Well I understand hydralics pretty good. The anti dive is not gonna cause the left seal to blow. When the antidive closes off the fluid tranfer port it simply locks the mechanism. It does not put pressure against the seal. Not anymore than it normally has . Not sure what that is , but most likely not much.

But in the interest of keeping the front tire contact in touch with the road, all I can tell you is how mine acted at about 4K. It would lock up during braking on rough roads. If there was uneven pavement or on gravel or that kind of thing ,it would get to crowhopping during braking. So partially disabling it kept the front tire on the road.

Never on smooth roads, only rough ones. I always figured inertia had something to do with that, not sure, but I think maybe so.

So I played with it, and partially disabled it. Took the preload off of it so it would not do that, but under heavy braking it would still work.

Now I have a good suspension system and it is not a concern. But when the bike was new, it did used to act the fool on rough roads.
 

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Kit,

Thanks for the input. I do like your various commentary on the board.

I've noticed my forks locking up and giving me a slam through the handlebars just going over the curb into the driveway. How did you partially disable the ADV? Thinner shim??
 

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Kit,


I've noticed my forks locking up and giving me a slam through the handlebars just going over the curb into the driveway. QUOTE]

If your frt forks are compressing, then it is probably you steering head bearings.
 

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Funny how even with stiffer/upgraded springs, my front suspension doesn't go BANG everytime I enter my driveway now that the ADV is disabled. Which it did from day one as a new bike.

Of course some people like that stock feeling.
 

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Well, here I go spitt'n in the wind, because overall I disagree with GoldWingrGreg, Rocky, and Kit Carson.

I believe Honda put in the ADV for one specific reason. They have very weak stock fork springs to give the Wing the softest ride possible. In order to keep the front forks from compressing through most of their travel under normal to heavy braking, they put in the ADV. Front end dive upsets many riders and everyone expect this luxury touring bike to has a cushy "Cadallac" ride so the soft springs and ADV solved (sort of) these two counter acting characteristics.

The problem with the ADV, as I see it, is that when you brake enough to activate the valve, it restricts the flow of fork fluid so severely that it almost acts like a complete blockage (for a short time). That makes the fork fluid pressure in the left fork increase significantly, sometimes to the point of causing a virtual hydrolic lock, thereby stopping any further compression of the left fork.

Now when that happens under moderate braking on smooth pavement, the results are not all that bad. If you are braking hard as your tire hits a bid bump, the left fork pressure can skyrocket. This puts much more strain on your left fork seal which is why that seal typically fails much more often than the right.

Can you have an acceptable ride with the stock suspension and a properly working ADV if you are not an overly aggressive rider? Yeah, many would say YES, and that is fine with me. Personnally, I ride the ol' girl pretty hard, and I found that situation completely unacceptable.

My solution was to disable the ADV and install a Race-Tech Gold Cartridge Emulator kit with significantly stiffer springs. The new springs do a much better job of supporting the significant weight of the Gold Wing and they do an adequate job of keeping the front end from diving while braking. I also don't blow out left fork seals like I did before the upgrade. The ride is a little ruffer than stock especially on "pebbely" roads but it feels more planted.

One thing I will agree with is that I would not disable the ADV if you are keeping the stock fork springs.
 

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Kit,

Thanks for the input. I do like your various commentary on the board.

I've noticed my forks locking up and giving me a slam through the handlebars just going over the curb into the driveway. How did you partially disable the ADV? Thinner shim??
Fred came up with the first idea, it was an E clip or washer, put under the top . Then a few more ideas, this and that. His solution is on the site somewhere, has been a couple years.

The easiest way was to go get two small washers at Napa auto parts, the perfect size to fit around the allen bolt and small enough to fit in the housing area of the anti dive and an oring that will fit inside but still be fat enough to make a seal.

Simply put the oring between the two halves, put the washers between the two halves , naturally around the bolts, and bolt it all back. The washes hold the plunger up a bit , enough to take the preload off the valve, and the oring makes a dirt and water seal to keep road gunk out of the valve.

That is how I fixed mine. I did not come up with the washer trick someone told me about that, but I refined it with the oring. That is neater than caulk or some other something.

Then cause everyone tole me I was going to crash and burn with stock springs I took the bike up to the big church parking lot and did a few emergency stops. It still worked fine but smoothed out about 90 percent of that handlebar feel and stopped the crow hopping during braking.

That way you do not totally disable it, it is still there if you need it for an emergency stop. That is its purpose, to hold the front tire planted without dive in a hard stop.
 

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Thank-you Kit

Thanks for the info Kit.:bow:
 
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