I'm about 6 months and 7000 miles into my tenure as a Wing rider. I will be replacing both tires in the next 2 or 3 months and wanted to find out what your recommendations are for maintenance items while the wheels are off. I will be replacing brake pads and flushing brake lines of course. The bike has about 60K miles on it. Should I consider replacing the wheel bearings? Are there any other maintenance chores I should accomplish while the wheels are off?
GL1800 maintenance chores while wheels are off
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Personally, unless the bearings need to be replaced, I wouldn't replace them. While the front wheel is off, stick your finger the in hole where the axle goes and turn the bearings. If they turn smooth, then I'd leave them alone.
If the pads need replacing, then definitely change them. Here are s couple of tips:
1. Once you get the front wheel off (you have to remove one of the calipers to do that, usually the left one as your looking at the bike from the front), remount the caliper and while the old pads are still in there, use a large screwdriver to compress the pistons so once the new pads are in there, there will be enough room for the rotor to fit. That pin that holds the pads in place is in there pretty tight, hence the reason for putting the caliper back on to get that pin loose.
2. DON'T squeeze the brake handle or pedal until the front wheel is back in place. Once it is, give the handle and pedal a couple of good squeezes before you go for a ride. This will prevent a surprise. Don't ask me how I know.
4:
3. If you want to clean the pistons before you put the new pads in, get a old toothbrush and some brake cleaner to give them a good once over. You'll have to take out the old pads to do that. Once they're clean, put the old pads back in and do step 1.
Fred Harmon has done a good step-by-step which should help: http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/brakepads
Change the brake fluid AFTER you get the new pads in place.
Give the fork tubes a good cleaning while you're in there.
If you've never changed your rear drive oil, might as well do it too. Here is a really good step-by-step on how to do that: http://www.gl1800riders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=271073
Have fun! :thumbup:
If the pads need replacing, then definitely change them. Here are s couple of tips:
1. Once you get the front wheel off (you have to remove one of the calipers to do that, usually the left one as your looking at the bike from the front), remount the caliper and while the old pads are still in there, use a large screwdriver to compress the pistons so once the new pads are in there, there will be enough room for the rotor to fit. That pin that holds the pads in place is in there pretty tight, hence the reason for putting the caliper back on to get that pin loose.
2. DON'T squeeze the brake handle or pedal until the front wheel is back in place. Once it is, give the handle and pedal a couple of good squeezes before you go for a ride. This will prevent a surprise. Don't ask me how I know.
4:3. If you want to clean the pistons before you put the new pads in, get a old toothbrush and some brake cleaner to give them a good once over. You'll have to take out the old pads to do that. Once they're clean, put the old pads back in and do step 1.
Fred Harmon has done a good step-by-step which should help: http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/brakepads
Change the brake fluid AFTER you get the new pads in place.
Give the fork tubes a good cleaning while you're in there.
If you've never changed your rear drive oil, might as well do it too. Here is a really good step-by-step on how to do that: http://www.gl1800riders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=271073
Have fun! :thumbup:
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18,093 Posts
I always carry my wheels in for tire repalcement. Once they are off, is when I polish my wheels before getting new tires mounted.
Some make it confusing as to which is left and right.
Tip ... on all vehicals, left and right is from the operators point of view as well as front and rear. Service Manuals, Parts Manuals, as well as the Owner's Manual all support this rule of thumb. So what is written above is referring to the RF brake caliper getting removed from the point of view as if you are sitting on and operating the Wing.
Some make it confusing as to which is left and right.
Tip ... on all vehicals, left and right is from the operators point of view as well as front and rear. Service Manuals, Parts Manuals, as well as the Owner's Manual all support this rule of thumb. So what is written above is referring to the RF brake caliper getting removed from the point of view as if you are sitting on and operating the Wing.
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4,115 Posts
Do you know what the maintenance history of the bike is? If you're flushing the brake lines, then you may want to consider the remaining fluids on the bike (radiator, final drive, clutch fluid, etc).
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268 Posts
I remounted my calipers so I could break the three bolts on the non-piston side of the caliper so I could separate them them and get to all sides of the piston and clean the copper colored spring in the caliper. I could not break them loose until I remounted them with the wheel off. I remounted them so I could get the right amount of torque on them after putting them together.
Hi Rob,
No, I don't know the history. The PO "said" all maintenance was performed on schedule. But, that's what you expect someone trying to sell a vehicle to say. However, he was unable/unwilling to provide records. The bike seems to have been well maintained, but I'd rather err on the side of caution.
I've already flushed the final drive. And expect to do the same with radiator and clutch fluids in the near future. But, are those things more easily accomplished with the wheels off?
Wendel,
I am planning a complete brake system overhaul since I don't know if that's ever been done. I haven't had any issues with the brakes other than the 'stuttering' when using the foot brake alone in high ambient temps. It really freaked me out the first time it happened, but I found through research that it's a fairly common complaint that Honda was never able to fully explain.
Thanks for the suggestions.
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1,871 Posts
7000 miles and you're getting ready for new rubber??? Are you riding on course sandpaper or what? My first set lasted 12K at which point I picked up a nail and decided to change out both ... they were a little better than 1/2 worn.
My second set just got retired at 20K (of total 32K) and still had at least 1K life left ... but a big danged screw finished them off.
On my '02, I don't think I ever got less than 15K.
How did you manage to wear them out this fast?
I was going to do the rubber exchange myself, but broke my mojo bar half way through the back wheel. So I carried the wheels and replacement rubber into a local offbrand dealer ... $40 to do both and he did an excellent job ... no scratches on the rims (or on the Rune front wheel I took him last year).
My second set just got retired at 20K (of total 32K) and still had at least 1K life left ... but a big danged screw finished them off.
On my '02, I don't think I ever got less than 15K.
How did you manage to wear them out this fast?
I was going to do the rubber exchange myself, but broke my mojo bar half way through the back wheel. So I carried the wheels and replacement rubber into a local offbrand dealer ... $40 to do both and he did an excellent job ... no scratches on the rims (or on the Rune front wheel I took him last year).
What I said was I've ridden the bike 7000 miles since I got it. I don't have any idea how many miles were on the tires at the time of purchase...:shrug:
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