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All,

I'm hooking up a 5-to-4 converter after the isolator trailer wiring harness on a friend's GL1800.

The converter has a ground lead with a spade connector on it that is supposed to go to bike ground.

Where the heck is a good ground location on the bike back there where all this trailer wiring is being installed?

I'm a bit concerned about finding a good ground on an aluminum frame bike!

(BTW it's an Add-On #45-1819 isolated trailer wiring harness, and an Add-On #45-1848 5-to-4 Converter. Friend bought these with this hitch before I could tell him to buy EC's stuff instead.)

Thanks for any help!
 

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Aluminum is a pretty darn good conductor, no need to worry because of that. Just find a place that you can get to, clean it well and bolt on your wire. Use a good weather proof ring terminal on a bolt. Alternately you could run a wire to the battery or up under the seat there are plenty of bolts to use.
 

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A good place is up under the seat, at the back left and right corners of the frame just before it goes under the trunk you will see a 12mm? bolt attachment point. Excellent place to mount a grounding lead.
 

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I know sometimes it sounds like a broken record but adding a pair of LED turn signal lights is so simple compared to converters that may or may not work or last. Putting a six pin round socket in the bottom fairing of the trunk on original GL 1800s of in the center fender panel on Japanese built GL 1800s and wiring it as the plug indicates gives the ability to pull and hook up to any trailer with adapters.


















Here is the site for Peterson's LED lighting

http://www.pmlights.com/products.cfm?cId=1


This is dirt simple. No gimmicks for your bike. Then if you want to pull the trailer with a non metric car, put the converter on the car. If you must leave the brake lights separated for some other vehicle, feed them with diodes from the bike's brake signal.
 

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Lewis Preston of Electrical Connections offers a harness that makes hooking into the RT. LT, Stop, and Talilights signals easy. It is the 08108 harness. You still need to run the red power lead and the black negative lead separately as in the drawing above. It is best to run these in stranded 12 gage and you can get them in 10 foot lengths at Walmart along with the yellow 1/4" ring crimp terminals to attach to the battery terminals. Be very sure to use a European type fuse holder rated at 30 amps to get the 12 gage wire, and of the Miniature size so you can use fuses from the Wing spares. 10 amp is adequate for most trailers unless it has a battery and then you need a 15 amp fuse to handle the charging current. Be sure to mount the fuse behind the side cover and not under the seat. The fused hot lead to the center pin of the six pin socket can then be used to run power back to the trailer that is independent of the ignition switch. Care should be used when drawing power from this lead as it can discharge your bike battery if left on. That is why the Tailwind has a relay that automatically drops this connection when the bike's taillights are switched off. IF you have a battery in the trailer this lead can keep it charged and you can use the trailer battery all you want without running the bike's battery down.

FUSING ANY LEAD HOOKED TO YOUR BIKE POSITIVE TERMINAL IS A MUST AND THE LEAD TO THE FUSE MUST BE SHORT AS POSSIBLE, BECAUSE IT IS UNPROTECTED. FAILURE TO FUSE ANY WIRE COMING FROM THE BIKE'S BATTERY POSITIVE TERMINAL CAN SET YOUR BIKE ON FIRE.

Using a wire too small for the fuse rating can also start a fire because the wire will heat up to ignition temperature and the fuse will not blow.


http://www.electricalconnection.com/wire-harnesses/hrns_license.htm

 

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6 pin connector

Tom, I read with interest your suggestions. Alittle off topic but, I have a new HF tag along Trailer. My plan is to replace the lights with the HF LED replacement (2 stop/tail/turn and two marker lights), disable the turn wire and run LED turn signals and a third run/stop light on the top of the carrier. (will be five wire)

Question: Can I just tap into my bikes harness since I am running all LEDs or is it safer to go with the 6 pin connector you described? Also, if you use the 6 pin, dont you need a relay so the connector isn't powered constantly?

Showing my electrical ignorance,

Mark
 
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