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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello Folks,

2007 GL1800 NAV/Audio/Comfort 17,000 miles. First time posting. Problem, heated grips work fine all day all settings. Front or rear seat gets no heat. If I turn on front seat only I get nothing. If I turn on rear seat only I get nothing. If I turn on grips I get heat all day. If I turn on grips and then the front seat, it kills grips and I get nothing. If I turn on grips I get heat all day if I turn on rear seat it kills grips and I get nothing. I have replaced the HCU. I have replaced the seat heater switch on the console. I have the service manual and have tested the entire system with only 1 issue that existed with the old and the new Switch on the console. Both the Front seat heater switch and the Grips switch only showed a total of 3 ohms not 6 ohms when set on OFF with ambient temperature at 68 deg. Both also decreased in ohms as I turned the dials down. The service manual indicates that I should have 6 ohms at 68 deg. The rear seat heater switch does show 6 ohms at OFF at 68 deg. (Found revision page for the Service Manual about previous sentence - I posted later on in this discussion). Moving on, I am getting voltage at the yellow/red wire at the relay when I turn any of the 3 switches on. I supplied 12v to the seat on yellow white wires (front) and yellow red wires (rear) and I get heat on both front and back. Was hoping that someone has gone through what I have. It seems that most of the posts relate to grips and seat not heating. My problem is the Grips work fine. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.?:
 

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GL1800 Doctor
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Hello Folks,

2007 GL1800 NAV/Audio/Comfort 17,000 miles. First time posting. Problem, Heated grips work fine all day all settings. Front or Rear seat gets no heat. If I turn on Front seat only I get nothing. If I turn on Rear seat only I get nothing. If I turn on Grips I get heat all day. If I turn on Grips then Front seat it kills grips and I get nothing. If I turn grips I get heat all day if I turn on Rear seat it kills grips and I get nothing. I have replaced the HCU. I have replaced the Seat heater switch on the console. I have the service manual and have tested the entire system with only 1 issue that existed with the old and the new Switch on the console. Both the Front seat heater switch and the Grips switch only showed a total of 3 ohms not 6 ohms when set on OFF with ambient temperature at 68 deg. Both also decreased in ohms as I turned the dials down. The service manual indicates that I should have 6 ohms at 68 deg. The rear seat heater switch does show 6 ohms at OFF at 68 deg. Also, I am getting voltage at the yellow/red wire at the relay when I turn any of the 3 switches on. I supplied 12v to the seat on yellow white wires (front) and yellow red wires (rear) and I get heat on both front and back. Was hoping that someone has gone through what I have. It seems that most of the posts relate to grips and seat not heating. My problem is the Grips work fine. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.:bow::
You need to check the resistance of the seat thermistors. If only one is out of whack, it will shut down the system. If they measure good, then make sure the HCU connector is fully plugged in and take your ohm meter and check each wire’s continuity across the connector. The pins of this connector have been problematic since this heating system started.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, techdude2000 for the reply. I have checked the Thermistors as described in section 17-10 of the service manual and they check out. You also mentioned checking continuity on the HCU across the connector. How do you do that, there is only one side. Unless I am missing somethi:frown2:ng.
 

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Honda published an article in the "Honda Wrench" news letter bulletin several years back (2010?) about problems with the connector pins going to the heater control unit. If I can locate it I'll come back and post it.
 

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GL1800 Doctor
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Thanks, techdude2000 for the reply. I have checked the Thermistors as described in section 17-10 of the service manual and they check out. You also mentioned checking continuity on the HCU across the connector. How do you do that, there is only one side. Unless I am missing somethi:frown2:ng.
Sorry, long day brain fart! All you can do is look at the female pin openings very closely and see if any look too large to fit tight on their matching control unit pins and try to squeeze them a little.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks, Fred H and Techdude2000. So it is safe to say that even after all the "drill down" testing the service manual provides which I have performed and the results acceptable, there still could be an issue with the HCU connector! I did replace the HCU as indicated in original post and the connection seemed ok but maybe not. I would assume I could rule out the connector issue if all the tests were performed to satisfaction. You guys just want me to take the left saddlebag off for a third time, don't ya :D:D:D:D:D Just kidding. I will look into that. Thanks again.
 

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As I recall from the article Honda published, there was a pin retention problem with that connector. Since the HCU is measuring resistance of the thermistors in the seat, any additional resistance in that connection could throw off its measurements and cause it to go into the failure mode. The connector has a rubber seal on it that will probably make it feel tight, but that doesn't mean the pins are making good contact. You may be able to do like TechDude said above and squeeze the female pins a bit to see if they will make better contact.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Found it, not that it does me any good other than maybe I will refocus my efforts towards the HCU.
Gold Wing Seat Heater write up by honda.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have noticed a lot of people suggesting that I try a known working heated seat to rule out the problem being my seat. Anyone live in the Detroit Metro Area willing to allow me to use their heated seat to rule out it being mine? (I will buy you lunch). I have a 2007 with 17,000 miles on her.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Electrical Connections has a dummy load to take the place of the seat in the heater circuit, if you can't find a working seat locally.
I was thinking of the dummy load connection but not sure if that would tell me anything. It just may have the necessary wiring to trick the system that the seat is there. What happens if you have the connector in place and then activate the switch to call for heat on the seat??
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Sorry, long day brain fart! All you can do is look at the female pin openings very closely and see if any look too large to fit tight on their matching control unit pins and try to squeeze them a little.
techdude2000,
I am giving up on trying to solve the seat heat problem. I am going to buy the Warm & Safe Heat-troller and the Heated seat dummy load connection. I can figure out what wires I need to connect the Heat-troller to the seat but would like to power the Heat-troller on a "key on" circuit. Any suggestions on where the get key on 12v, to connect the Heat-troller? Maybe a relay? I really don't want to go direct to the battery in case I forget to turn Heat-troller off.
 

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Had similar problem a few years ago on my 08. Removed seat cover and found a broken wire in front left side of seat heater. Break was obvious from small burnt spot in foam. Repaired broken wire and seat worked fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Had similar problem a few years ago on my 08. Removed seat cover and found a broken wire in front left side of seat heater. Break was obvious from small burnt spot in foam. Repaired broken wire and seat worked fine.
So your grips would work all day as long as yo did not turn the seat on? Did you go through the testing procedure and did the seat show there was continuity even though you found a break?
Any info would be appreciated.
 

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Grips would work until seat was turned on. After seat repair both grips and seat worked for next 100,000 miles until bike was totaled. I ride all winter (no car) so heat was used a lot. Did not go through testing procedure.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Grips would work until seat was turned on. After seat repair both grips and seat worked for next 100,000 miles until bike was totaled. I ride all winter (no car) so heat was used a lot. Did not go through testing procedure.
Thanks for the info cj.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ok, I give up. I am going to convert over to the Warm & Safe Heat Troller setup. I will put the Grips on one Heat Troller and the Seat Front on another. Any suggestions on mounting or wiring?

Thank You.

Jim
 

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A couple of things; if the heat controller finds too high or too low a resistance in the rear seat or its wiring is switches off. Also, if the ambient temperature is high the controller will switch off to prevent overheating so if you're testing in a warm garage you may fall foul of this. However, presuming this is not the case, since you've substituted the controller, my guess is that you do have a seat wiring fault. You can substitute dummy loads for the thermistors but the controller will still switch off on finding a fault. The controller can be reset by switching the ignition off or to the accessory position. Plainly if the fault still exists it will trip off again but if you're travelling with the grips on and you inadvertently trip the system to fault, all you need to do is flip the ignition key momentarily to accessory position and the system resets so your grips will come back on. It does save the hassle of having to stop the bike to restart the controller.

As well as the standard seat I have one I modified in shape which is fitted with non-standard heating elements. The control for this is simply an on/off switch. It works ok. The seat has a fair amount of thermal inertia so takes time to warm up but it also takes time to cool down. From the point at which I feel the seat becoming too warm and switch it off, it takes approximately an hour until I prefer it on again. I've ridden all day many times in very cold weather just flipping the seat on as required, occasionally at temps as low as minus 6 degrees. Since your grips would work as normal it could prove an easy and satisfactory fix for you.

You can pick up pretty much any ignition controlled power from wherever is close and convenient for your chosen switch or controller wiring if you run the main load current through a relay.

Good luck with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks for the Information JW.

As I mentioned early on, my grips worked fine all day long. It was only when I activated the front or rear seat that the grips would stop working. I triple checked all wiring and connections to no avail. What I did was installed a Warm & Safe Heat Troller in the left pocket and connected to power source via Relay. I didn't want to drill into any of the panels and I could not install on the right side panel under key-Lock because I have the Navigation controls there. I also purchased the Heated Seat Dummy Load Adapter from Electronic Connection and plugged into the seat connector. Needed to do this so grips would still operate. This way if someone down the road wants to try and make this work they will have all the factory connections. So, Heat Troller works great, seat heats up all day. When the grips go, I will be installing another Heat Troller for them as well or replace the one I installed with a Dual Controller.
 
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