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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone know what the rear coil-over shocks are that are used in the Hannigan kits for the GL1800?

I've got a list of what all the other components are (I think) and would like to add this info, as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, and some consolidated Hannigan info .....

Thanks 'again' Dawg ....both for all the Hannigan info and the 'F4 4+' info!!

I've been asked by another forum member to provide a list of all the parts I've learned of so far , and so I have posted that below, along with some other info that may be of interest to other Hannigan owners, and a few questions I still have.


Credit for providing the information goes to Dawg, Missouri Charley, Ben, Doc, Dozerman, Spencer, Onevw ....... and I'm sure a few others (that I apologize in advance for not remembering the names of) that actually provided the information so I could mostly just cut and paste it all together. :)

If anyone has anything to add, or I've made a mistake 'PLEASE' feel free to correct me.

The vented rotors and calipers are from a Honda Civic CRX from 1984 through and including 1987 as are the hubs.
For pads, the recommended ones are Hawk HPS Front Brake Pads for 1985-1987 Honda Civic (1.3L) - P/N: HB397F.585
I know of one person that has switched the stock CRX rotors with rotors from R1 Concepts (drilled and slotted @ ~$75 a pair) and has reported much better stopping with these pads and these rotors.

The specs for the wheels are 15"X7" 4-100 w/39mm offset. eBay lists a lot of wheels that are spec'd like this, in 38 to 40mm offset (by searching for the the specs.) starting at ~$100. Caution has been recommended to stay close to the stock wheel's offset spec, and the OEM Michelin Harmony 185/60R15 tires, for clearance reasons.

The rear differential is Ford Thunderbird 1989-1997 with a final drive ratio of 2.73 . (I don't know the fluid or service interval ... anyone?)

The inner CV joint is Thunderbird.

The outer CV joint is Honda Civic CRX.

The front universal joint is the factory GL1800 as is the driveshaft, this is coupled to a Thunderbird u-joint in the rear.
Front u-joint needs greasing every 15000 miles, also grease the 2 swing arms every 30000 miles. It is recommended you either get a 90º tip for your grease gun, or two 90º zerk fittings to be able to grease all the fittings.

The rear shocks are I.A.S. shocks with a standard progressive spring rate of 200/300 5 preload settings.

It has been suggested that Hannigan advises and/or uses Progressive springs in the front forks, adds 1.25" fork extenders, and a 4.5 degree rake to the GL kits.

Some other things I would like to know:

What weight do you normally carry and what are the settings of your rear shock preload?

How many miles and time do you have on your front springs and are they; stock, Progressive, Traxxion or other?

If you have experienced both new Progressive and Traxxion springs, which did you prefer?

Have you modified the anti-dive, and if so did you tune it or completely eliminate it?

What is your current unloaded ground clearance?
 

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More info on the shocks:
The Progressive part # is 640-1302-002. They can be purchased only through Hannigan, but Progressive does honor the warranty on those and will deal directly with the owner on those warranty issues regardless if they are the first or 30th owner. Those were co-designed by Hannigan and Progressive manufactures them (and borrowed the design for use in other applications they produce) for Hannigan.
I'm sure further questions you may have will be gladly answered by John, if you want to call him.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Dawg ....... Hannigan should hire you as their IILO ...... (Internet Information Liason Officer)!!

I could'a died a happy Hanni owner last month if so ....... ;)

Thanks again my friend!
 

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Dawg ....... Hannigan should hire you as their IILO ...... (Internet Information Liaison Officer)!!

I could'a died a happy Hanni owner last month if so ....... ;)

Thanks again my friend!
Hannigan never offered but, if you remember some one else did(not as a Liaison). However, that is another story and shall not be expounded upon here on this forum:eek:4:Non-sponsoring business and all that:oops:
 

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Thanks 'again' Dawg ....both for all the Hannigan info and the 'F4 4+' info!!

I've been asked by another forum member to provide a list of all the parts I've learned of so far , and so I have posted that below, along with some other info that may be of interest to other Hannigan owners, and a few questions I still have.


Credit for providing the information goes to Dawg, Missouri Charley, Ben, Doc, Dozerman, Spencer, Onevw ....... and I'm sure a few others (that I apologize in advance for not remembering the names of) that actually provided the information so I could mostly just cut and paste it all together. :)

If anyone has anything to add, or I've made a mistake 'PLEASE' feel free to correct me.

The vented rotors and calipers are from a Honda Civic CRX from 1984 through and including 1987 as are the hubs.
For pads, the recommended ones are Hawk HPS Front Brake Pads for 1985-1987 Honda Civic (1.3L) - P/N: HB397F.585
I know of one person that has switched the stock CRX rotors with rotors from R1 Concepts (drilled and slotted @ ~$75 a pair) and has reported much better stopping with these pads and these rotors.

The specs for the wheels are 15"X7" 4-100 w/39mm offset. eBay lists a lot of wheels that are spec'd like this, in 38 to 40mm offset (by searching for the the specs.) starting at ~$100. Caution has been recommended to stay close to the stock wheel's offset spec, and the OEM Michelin Harmony 185/60R15 tires, for clearance reasons.

The rear differential is Ford Thunderbird 1989-1997 with a final drive ratio of 2.73 . (I don't know the fluid or service interval ... anyone?)

The inner CV joint is Thunderbird.

The outer CV joint is Honda Civic CRX.

The front universal joint is the factory GL1800 as is the driveshaft, this is coupled to a Thunderbird u-joint in the rear.
Front u-joint needs greasing every 15000 miles, also grease the 2 swing arms every 30000 miles. It is recommended you either get a 90º tip for your grease gun, or two 90º zerk fittings to be able to grease all the fittings.

The rear shocks are I.A.S. shocks with a standard progressive spring rate of 200/300 5 preload settings.

It has been suggested that Hannigan advises and/or uses Progressive springs in the front forks, adds 1.25" fork extenders, and a 4.5 degree rake to the GL kits.

Some other things I would like to know:

What weight do you normally carry and what are the settings of your rear shock preload?

How many miles and time do you have on your front springs and are they; stock, Progressive, Traxxion or other?

If you have experienced both new Progressive and Traxxion springs, which did you prefer?

Have you modified the anti-dive, and if so did you tune it or completely eliminate it?

What is your current unloaded ground clearance?
I own my Hannigan for 6 years and this is the first time I have heard that the frount u joint had to be grease every 15000 miles
 

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Thanks 'again' Dawg ....both for all the Hannigan info and the 'F4 4+' info!!

I've been asked by another forum member to provide a list of all the parts I've learned of so far , and so I have posted that below, along with some other info that may be of interest to other Hannigan owners, and a few questions I still have.


Credit for providing the information goes to Dawg, Missouri Charley, Ben, Doc, Dozerman, Spencer, Onevw ....... and I'm sure a few others (that I apologize in advance for not remembering the names of) that actually provided the information so I could mostly just cut and paste it all together. :)

If anyone has anything to add, or I've made a mistake 'PLEASE' feel free to correct me.

The vented rotors and calipers are from a Honda Civic CRX from 1984 through and including 1987 as are the hubs.
For pads, the recommended ones are Hawk HPS Front Brake Pads for 1985-1987 Honda Civic (1.3L) - P/N: HB397F.585
I know of one person that has switched the stock CRX rotors with rotors from R1 Concepts (drilled and slotted @ ~$75 a pair) and has reported much better stopping with these pads and these rotors.

The specs for the wheels are 15"X7" 4-100 w/39mm offset. eBay lists a lot of wheels that are spec'd like this, in 38 to 40mm offset (by searching for the the specs.) starting at ~$100. Caution has been recommended to stay close to the stock wheel's offset spec, and the OEM Michelin Harmony 185/60R15 tires, for clearance reasons.

The rear differential is Ford Thunderbird 1989-1997 with a final drive ratio of 2.73 . (I don't know the fluid or service interval ... anyone?)

The inner CV joint is Thunderbird.

The outer CV joint is Honda Civic CRX.

The front universal joint is the factory GL1800 as is the driveshaft, this is coupled to a Thunderbird u-joint in the rear.
Front u-joint needs greasing every 15000 miles, also grease the 2 swing arms every 30000 miles. It is recommended you either get a 90º tip for your grease gun, or two 90º zerk fittings to be able to grease all the fittings.

The rear shocks are I.A.S. shocks with a standard progressive spring rate of 200/300 5 preload settings.

It has been suggested that Hannigan advises and/or uses Progressive springs in the front forks, adds 1.25" fork extenders, and a 4.5 degree rake to the GL kits.

Some other things I would like to know:

What weight do you normally carry and what are the settings of your rear shock preload?

How many miles and time do you have on your front springs and are they; stock, Progressive, Traxxion or other?

If you have experienced both new Progressive and Traxxion springs, which did you prefer?

Have you modified the anti-dive, and if so did you tune it or completely eliminate it?

What is your current unloaded ground clearance?


Wow! I wish this information would be avalable for the Motortrike IRS kit.



.
 

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The vented rotors and calipers are from a Honda Civic CRX from 1984 through and including 1987 as are the hubs.
For pads, the recommended ones are Hawk HPS Front Brake Pads for 1985-1987 Honda Civic (1.3L) - P/N: HB397F.585
I know of one person that has switched the stock CRX rotors with rotors from R1 Concepts (drilled and slotted @ ~$75 a pair) and has reported much better stopping with these pads and these rotors.

The specs for the wheels are 15"X7" 4-100 w/39mm offset. eBay lists a lot of wheels that are spec'd like this, in 38 to 40mm offset (by searching for the the specs.) starting at ~$100. Caution has been recommended to stay close to the stock wheel's offset spec, and the OEM Michelin Harmony 185/60R15 tires, for clearance reasons.

The rear differential is Ford Thunderbird 1989-1997 with a final drive ratio of 2.73 . (I don't know the fluid or service interval ... anyone?)

The inner CV joint is Thunderbird.

The outer CV joint is Honda Civic CRX.

The front universal joint is the factory GL1800 as is the driveshaft, this is coupled to a Thunderbird u-joint in the rear.
Front u-joint needs greasing every 15000 miles
Are you sure it's the front u-joint?
, also grease the 2 swing arms every 30000 miles. It is recommended you either get a 90º tip for your grease gun, or two 90º zerk fittings to be able to grease all the fittings.

The rear shocks are I.A.S. shocks with a standard progressive spring rate of 200/300 5 preload settings.

It has been suggested that Hannigan advises and/or uses Progressive springs in the front forks, adds 1.25" fork extenders, and a 4.5 degree rake to the GL kits.

Some other things I would like to know:

What weight do you normally carry and what are the settings of your rear shock preload?
Let's just say, 2up, we're around 430#'s and leave it @ that:roll:

How many miles and time do you have on your front springs and are they; stock, Progressive, Traxxion or other?
27K, OEM and it rides fine.

If you have experienced both new Progressive and Traxxion springs, which did you prefer?
Neither so, no comment

Have you modified the anti-dive, and if so did you tune it or completely eliminate it?
Shimmed to "tune it".

What is your current unloaded ground clearance?
4 1/4" to a weld bead on the left OEM exhaust header near the rear of the motor where the header starts to curve upward. I also have the Hannigan foot boards but the point already explained is still the lowest point on the trike.
'''''''''''''''''''
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Wow! I wish this information would be avalable for the Motortrike IRS kit.



.


IMO, a complete documentation package for 'all' of these kits would be welcome.

Something with maintenance schedule and instruction, a field repair manual, a 'complete parts diagram, a brief troubleshooting section, and complete trike specifications, to include not only dimensions and curb weight, but also finished ground clearance with the different rake, fork extension and spring options the mfg. offers, loading vrs. suspension adjustment suggestions, front and rear axel weights, center of gravity. Handy if trying to pre-determine what cargo trailer ........ (or more specifically what cargo trailer 'axel placement') you need to buy to haul it behind something like a motorcoach, and stay within the tongue weight restrictions of your towing system.

A complete package like that for each model the kit mfg. offers, would (IMO) really help in a practical sense.

I would certainly be willing to pay for this type of detailed information as an option, if not offered by the kit mfg. as part of the kit price.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I own my Hannigan for 6 years and this is the first time I have heard that the frount u joint had to be grease every 15000 miles
It appears that the instruction for the front U joint greasing, needs to be edited/illiminated?

Thanks!


P.S. One more reason this type of info is best served from the kit mfg. ........... ;)
 

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Some manufacturers who sell to "self installers" have all assembly, maintenance instructions and parts lists available on line and/or come w/the kits.
Some consider SOME of this info proprietary because they do not want "unknowledgeables" wrenching on their products.
One member put together a list of just such info on one of the conversions some time ago and was promptly "in trouble" w/the manufacturer for divulging info that manufacturer did not want released, as well as there were a few mistakes made.
BE CAREFUL WHAT YOU PUBLISH FOR THE WORLD TO SEE!
While putting such info together may be a noble undertaking, at the minimum, I would be asking for permission from each manufacturer to do so before taking the time to do so only to find out you can't do anything w/it.
 
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