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Harsh Ride Over Small Bumps - is Stock Front Suspension to Blame?

12K views 27 replies 22 participants last post by  cycledude 
#1 ·
Folks,

I upgraded from a GL1200 to a GL1800 about four months ago. Now that I've put some miles on it, I can officially call the ride, specifically the front suspension, harsh compared to my GL1200 with brand new Progressive springs in the forks and rear shocks.

Here's the specs: We're lightweights, meaning my wife and I COMBINED weigh 270#. I'm running on a completely stock suspension on an '06 with 56,000 miles on it. I've got the rear preload set to #7, which on my bike is where the pump just starts to load up.

I think the rear suspension is fine for us, but the front end is really harsh over expansion joints and other small bumps, way more harsh than my GL1200 is with the upgraded suspension.

When I say harsh, I mean it jars the hell out of my RAM mount handlebar-mounted portable GPS! It shakes the thing nearly to death when taking bumps compared to when it was mounted on my GL1200.

I'm 99.9% sure that the anti-dive valve is NOT sticking, since I have actually ridden another GL1800 on which the anti-dive valve stuck a few times while riding, so I know what that feels like. That said, I don't know what weight fork oil in in the forks, or when the last time was that it was changed.

I guess my real question is this: Is the stock front end suspension on my GL1800 responsible for this really harsh ride up front?

If the answer is YES, I already know my options (Progressive, RaceTech, Traxxion), so no need to go into that subject too deeply.

I just want to know if I have to take one of those options to solve this harsh front suspension problem, or if perhaps a flush and some different weight oil might do the job.

I'm not the type to ride the twisties fast, but I need to fix this harsh front end.

Other than this issue, I'm lovin' this bike.

Thanks very much for any advise that you can provide.

***
 
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#2 ·
...
I'm 99.9% sure that the anti-dive valve is NOT sticking, since I have actually ridden another GL1800 on which the anti-dive valve stuck a few times while riding, so I know what that feels like. ....
So, prove that isn't the problem by temporarily deactivating the ADV and going for a test ride. My money says that is the problem.
 
#3 ·
ADV is notorious for sticking. Boots has a good idea. On the other hand, 56K is a good bit of miles, and it is possible the front springs are done. Take a tie wrap and put it around a fork, sit on the bike. See where that puts you with travel. if you are at the end of travel, then springs are in order no matter what else is needed.

Hope this is helpfull.
Best wishes.
 
#4 ·
It's long over due for a fork oil change (likely a bushing replacement too)... I'd recommend getting a new set of springs (OEM's are lame) and a set of slide bushings and then rebuild the forks (insure the valve area is cleaned good)... Put in 7wt oil (ATF sould work) and give it a test ride...
 
#5 ·
So, prove that isn't the problem by temporarily deactivating the ADV and going for a test ride.
Boots,

I can do that test. I alread bought an anti-dive valve disable shim from Wingstuff, so I can install it and do that test. Good idea.

***
 
#6 ·
Boots,

I can do that test. I alread bought an anti-dive valve disable shim from Wingstuff, so I can install it and do that test. Good idea.

***
Seeing you have 56,000 on her I like others think the front springs are done. I would buy a set of aftermarket front springs your choice. Get some new bushings and seals and some 10wt fork oil rebuild the front forks and I think you will be very happy with the results. I replace my fork oil every year I don't care what the book says after a hard summer of riding its junk and it's not that much money to replace:thumbup:. I do alot of front fork rebuilds and everyone I have done them for can't believe how bad the fork oil gets even after 1 year of riding Good Luck :thumbup:
 
#7 ·
Seeing you have 56,000 on her I like others think the front springs are done. I would buy a set of aftermarket front springs your choice. Get some new bushings and seals and some 10wt fork oil rebuild the front forks and I think you will be very happy with the results. I replace my fork oil every year I don't care what the book says after a hard summer of riding its junk and it's not that much money to replace:thumbup:. I do alot of front fork rebuilds and everyone I have done them for can't believe how bad the fork oil gets even after 1 year of riding Good Luck :thumbup:
I just turned 58k on my '06. Never did any work on the forks. I'm not too bright sometimes. My ride on front is really bad. Rear seems ok, wife does not complain. After much thought, I finally decided that this is our last bike. I'm 63 and retiring next year and just do not want to spend the $$$$ for a new Wing. Full Monty being done on 8/19. Hope that is the cure all for comfort and that damn wobble!
 
#8 ·
Good idea to test ride with the valve disabled. You can just remove the screws and go for a ride to test. Usually the 06 and ups don't seize like the 2002-05s. Honda changed the design. The newer design is more likely to leak then seize. But what you are describing sounds like one that went bad. Let us know what you found.
 
#9 ·
Seeing you have 56,000 on her I like others think the front springs are done. I would buy a set of aftermarket front springs your choice. Get some new bushings and seals and some 10wt fork oil rebuild the front forks and I think you will be very happy with the results. I replace my fork oil every year I don't care what the book says after a hard summer of riding its junk and it's not that much money to replace:thumbup:. I do alot of front fork rebuilds and everyone I have done them for can't believe how bad the fork oil gets even after 1 year of riding Good Luck :thumbup:
Any good videos on how to change the fork oil or rebuild the forks?
 
#10 ·
I feel your pain, been there done that, hate the harsh ride. That being said my harsh ride is long gone. I have had race tech springs, race tech valves, now have hyperpro springs. Before doing all of the above I had changed the front fork oil to 5wgt. After changing to the 5wgt. fork oil 90% of the harshness was gone. I prefer the hyperpro springs & 5 wgt oil but the truth is the difference in the harsh ride after doing everything I have done is not enough to talk about. If I had it all to do again I would go with just the fork oil change to 5 wgt., front air pressure 36psi & rear air pressure 41psi & leave your rear spring adj. where you have it. On the psi, my first set of tires cupped pretty quickly. My second & third set of bridgestone with dyna beads have not cupped at all & the front tire has lasted 17,000 miles before hitting the wear bars. :thumbup: If you have any questions call me 248-535-0145.
 
#11 ·
Boots,

I can do that test. I alread bought an anti-dive valve disable shim from Wingstuff, so I can install it and do that test. Good idea.

***
Nice clean kit, could be done for $0.05. instead of $19.99...

Take a nickel, drill a hole in the center of the nickel large enough for the anti-valve plunger to go through and insert it in the same place the "Kit" would go.

Another item to check for when the ride is really harsh is too much fork oil...

I eliminated the whole problem Honda created, Installed the full Traxxion System in 2006...
 
#15 ·
Any good videos on how to change the fork oil or rebuild the forks?
Freds Dvd's work pretty well But if you decide to do them yourself drop me a PM and I will send you my phone number and see if we can walk you thru it :thumbup::thumbup: Jeff P.S. there is no reason to spend a ton of money on suspension parts if you are happy with the way the bike handles other than your small problem. Buy a front set of springs and parts to rebuild forks and use the rest of the money you saved on gas.
 
#16 ·
To answer your question-YES

Disable anti dive helps
Stiffer springs helps
Traxxion fork brace helps
Traxion springs helps
Traxxion Full Monty rules:thumbup:
 
#17 ·
The wing is a great bike. Having said that the front suspension sucks.
The harsh ride from the front is a very common complaint and it is the suspension.

My bike did that from day one. Hit a road with a few bumps or surface with large gravel embedded into the pavement, bumps at bridges and road surface changes would jar the fillings out of your teeth.

Pretty common complaint.

Traxxion or Race Tech will solve the issue. Not 100 percent, but it changes the harshness to a soft roll over. So although not a caddy, the harshness is gone.
 
#18 ·
Folks,

I think the rear suspension is fine for us, but the front end is really harsh over expansion joints and other small bumps, way more harsh than my GL1200 is with the upgraded suspension.

When I say harsh, I mean it jars the hell out of my RAM mount handlebar-mounted portable GPS! It shakes the thing nearly to death when taking bumps compared to when it was mounted on my GL1200.


I guess my real question is this: Is the stock front end suspension on my GL1800 responsible for this really harsh ride up front?
The stock forks have springs that are too soft. Even with a light rider sitting on the bike the stock forks will will sag 3 inches out of the 5 inches the forks have.... with the stock set up the front forks are nearly bottomed out just riding the bike on a smooth road. When the forks encounter road bumps the forks being nearly bottomed out have nowhere to go and the road shock is transmitted up through the handlebars. Installing aftermarket fork springs that are matched to the weight of the bike and the weight that the bike normally carrys will go a long way in improving the ride by increasing the available fork travel to better deal with the road bumps...aftermarket fork springs will increase the available fork travel by 2 inches over the stock setup.

The difference between upgrading the forks with Traxxions AK-20 kit and just adding stiffer fork springs is that with the AK-20 kit, besides the stronger fork springs, the forks compression and rebound damping rates are also tuned to the weight that the bike normally carries....and that is why a Traxxion bike rides, handles, and can carry the weight of two people much better than the stock setup can.
 
#19 ·
Boy do I feel your pain, especially in my shoulders! I just oredered a set of Progressive springs and some new oil for my '05, unfortunatly I am going to have to take it to the bandit to get them put in as I am not very handy with the wrench. I sure hope they help.
 
#20 ·
Good idea to test the antidive valve... Let us know what you found.
Just disassembled the antidive valve to see if it was stuck. It was not. The actuator rod was completely returned to its UNextended position as the bike sat.

Next I used the pics on Fred Harmon's web site to pull the top and bottom halves apart and actuate the piston by pushing up on the brake caliper assembly to push the rod into the secondary master cylinder. The antidive valve actuator rod came out to a fully extended position. Reassembled it to the bottom half to get spring pressure from the lower valve body to push up on the actuator rod and return it to its recessed position. It did, as evidenced by removing it for inspection again.

So, no evidence that the antidive valve actuator rod sticking in the extended position. Seems to be working just fine.

I'll install the Wingstuff antidive valve disable shim next and ride it. But, I don't expect to see any change since I think the antidive valve is working properly and not the major cause of my harsh front end.

Looks like some new springs and perhaps some new fork valving is in my future.

Thanks all for the usual spot-on advice and experience on this issue.

***
 
#21 ·
Just disassembled the antidive valve to see if it was stuck. It was not. The actuator rod was completely returned to its UNextended position as the bike sat.

Next I used the pics on Fred Harmon's web site to pull the top and bottom halves apart and actuate the piston by pushing up on the brake caliper assembly to push the rod into the secondary master cylinder. The antidive valve actuator rod came out to a fully extended position. Reassembled it to the bottom half to get spring pressure from the lower valve body to push up on the actuator rod and return it to its recessed position. It did, as evidenced by removing it for inspection again.

So, no evidence that the antidive valve actuator rod sticking in the extended position. Seems to be working just fine.

I'll install the Wingstuff antidive valve disable shim next and ride it. But, I don't expect to see any change since I think the antidive valve is working properly and not the major cause of my harsh front end.

Looks like some new springs and perhaps some new fork valving is in my future.

Thanks all for the usual spot-on advice and experience on this issue.

***
Well sounds like you are heading down the right path to a front fork rebuild. Good Luck and if you need any help please drop me a PM will help you as much as I can :thumbup:. I have a bunch of forks to rebuild this winter so Ill be back into the stinky fork oil LOL
 
#22 ·
Looks like some new springs and perhaps some new fork valving is in my future.

Thanks all for the usual spot-on advice and experience on this issue.

***
The springs make the biggest difference. I like straight rate springs, because they sag less, give you more bump travel, and so can be softer than the higher rate of the dual rate springs, either stock or the brand "Progressive". These use up most of their soft initial rate in static sag, putting you on the harder second rate over all but small bumps. The improved damping options are nice, but they mostly affect handling; and ride over large bumps rather than ride over small ones.
 
#24 ·
At 53K miles I had the front suspension rebuilt(bushings, seals, new 15W oil) and new traxxion 1.1 spring kit. An amazing difference in the ride and handling. Also had the AD disabled as with the traxxion springs IMO you do not need it.

I do love the new feel of the Wing. It has a nice firm feel to it but is not harsh. The handling is much improved.

Fred
 
#26 ·
It's long over due for a fork oil change (likely a bushing replacement too)... I'd recommend getting a new set of springs (OEM's are lame) and a set of slide bushings and then rebuild the forks (insure the valve area is cleaned good)... Put in 7wt oil (ATF sould work) and give it a test ride...
I agree with all this, but I will also bet that disabling the A/D will be a big improvement....I would not disable with worn stock springs or it will be bottoming all the time, even with would low weight factor.
 
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