To get the switch out, you didn't need to take the pocket out. All you need to remove is the left trim strip, the allen bolt holding the instrument cluster, then a flat blade screwdriver to press in the tab right below the allen bolt. Gently pull the cluster plate away from the opposite side and the whole face plate and instrument cluster should slide out.I took the insert out of the left fairing pocket and can see the switch. How do I get the hazard switch out so I can follow Fred's advice on servicing it?
It probably will work, and if you loose the spring like I did, then it IS a better solution. I have to believe though, based on all the gunk that I took out of mine that at some point it will fail. I think the switch design is poor, and lets debris into the mechanism. So no matter what the fix, I would always have that little bit of a twinge when I pushed the button again. For me, I think I will forgo the stress and leave it deactiviated or may be find a better switch.This is how I fixed mine. Not sure how long it will last but works great so far.:biker:
I just fixed the same problem by using PB Blaster to unstick the switch, with out removing the switch. Saved a lot of coin by reading this and other posting. I thank you and now I am a reader.:agree:I took the insert out of the left fairing pocket and can see the switch. How do I get the hazard switch out so I can follow Fred's advice on servicing it?
This will probably sound like a rant to some of you that have seen my posts about WD-40 before, but that stuff is NOT a cure all for electronics. Its main ingredient is fish oil and it was primarily designed to remove moisture from metal and as a secondary, it acts like a mild solvent and lubricant. For those purposes, it is PERFECT. Those of you that own boats or work around fresh or salt water environments will find D-40 a really handy and extremely useful tool.I didn't take my switch apart. After I removed the switch panel, I removed the switch and just sprayed some WD-40 down the front of it, and then worked the switch about 3 dozen times. It took about 10 presses for it to work loose. It has been fine for over a year now.
:bow:WD-40's main ingredients, according to U.S. Material Safety Data Sheet information, are:
50%: Stoddard solvent (i.e., mineral spirits -- primarily hexane, somewhat similar to kerosene)
25%: Liquefied petroleum gas (presumably as a propellant; carbon dioxide is now used instead to reduce WD-40's considerable flammability)
15+%: Mineral oil (light lubricating oil)
10-%: Inert ingredients
The FISH OIL story is Urban Legend
LarryM - Thank you for the polite rebuttle to my post (where I helped spread the urban legend of it being based on fish oil)...Oops.Mark, I understand your concerns, and your thoughts are shared by many. However, in my experience, most of the concerns that are widely shared about WD40 are of little concern and are grossly overblown. Plain old oil or grease is going to attract more dirt than a thin layer of WD40.
My first stuck switch on my 02 was the mute switch when the bike was one year old. 6 years later the mute switch still works fine. If you want an even more extreme case, a couple of years ago my table saw worm gears were all gummed up from saw dust mixing with the grease put on at the factory. I cleaned it all off and sprayed it with WD40. Many, Many projects later, the worm gears still work smoothly with nothing gumming up the mechanism.
As an electronics technician, I have access to some of the best, most expensive contact cleaners and degreasers made today, but yet in many cases, techs will opt for good old fashioned, off the shelf WD40 for one simple reason. It works. I have sprayed switches 20 years ago that are still functioning perfectly today with no additional maintenance.
My only warning about WD40 is to never spray it on anything other than 12volt applications or lower. It is flammable. Spraying it in one of your house switches could be hazardous. But it is perfectly safe in 12volt electronics.
The products you mention that have graphite and teflon in them may work ok for the mechanical part of the switch, but are not good for the electrical contacts. (BTW, I bought a can of the Radio Shack cleaner out of desparation a few years back and found it to be worthless for cleaning dirty and oxidized contacts. I threw the can in the trash.)
I would like to share my reasons that I often recommend WD40 on this board over other products.
1. Every house has at least one can on the shelf.
2. It's cheap.
3. It will not attack plastics. Many of the cleaners on the market will destroy cosmetic parts if it contacts them. This is becoming more and more of a problem every year because stricter EPA regulations has been causing chemical companies to reformulate previously safe, common products.
4. It excels not only as a lubricant, but in freeing stuck mechanical devices like switch latch mechanisms.
5. Even though it is not designed or advertised as a contact cleaner, it is excellent for that purpose. It outperforms many contact cleaners designed for the purpose, which is astonishing. It's ability to prevent oxidation is also beneficial in preventing switch contacts from corroding in the future. Its viscosity is so light that everything except the most delicate switches can make good contact through the coating layer.
For the purposes of the audience on this website, there are very few products on the market that can match WD40 in all four of those instances. Products like LPS may also work great. I just happen to be partial to WD40. It has served me so well over the years that I have had little incentive to experiment with anything else. There are many people here that trust me when it comes to electrical issues. I would not recommend it unless I was 100% certain of its effectiveness, or if I thought it had a serious drawback.
Plasma and LCD TVs all have a digital video signal bus to the panel called an LVDS cable. (Low Voltage Differential Signal) They all contain a very delicate connector that is prone to going intermittent. Contact cleaners have always been hit or miss in correcting the problem, and many techs have resorted to just ordering a new cable when it goes bad. That was until I found that WD40 fixes nearly 100% of the problems. Now we all use it to clean those contacts.
If you were using the one in the blue and white larger can, I cannot agree more. I have had great results using the smaller white and pink can....The products you mention that have graphite and teflon in them may work ok for the mechanical part of the switch, but are not good for the electrical contacts. (BTW, I bought a can of the Radio Shack cleaner out of desparation a few years back and found it to be worthless for cleaning dirty and oxidized contacts. I threw the can in the trash.)...