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I got a box from Henry! I got my Yellow box a couple days ago, both to go on my 2010. I have not seen anything from anyone really giving any information on amount of change, so I did some marking (on tape in special locations), spinning, counting, and number crunching. I still have my "making flakes" failing original final drive, so I used it for counting revolutions. It was a giving me 4 wheel revolutions to 11 shaft. Did the same on Henry's and came up with 7 wheel revolutions to 16 shaft. OK, time to play with a spreadsheet and crunch some numbers. I came up with a 0.831168 ratio difference (to pick out of Yellow box chart). But I also wanted to know the % of change. It turns out to be a huge 20.3% increase in speed. My old yellow box (now on Suzuki M50) would be 0101 0001 on the switches (simple binary with the two right most being 0.25%; 20 dec=10100 binary + "01" for 20.25%). But, I have a new version that threw away "simple" and now requires a magic decoder chart. I just ended up copying that chart into excel so I could get a % of change column. That gave me 1001 1100 at 0.8315 for 20.26% speed increase. It will be a while before I can verify the results since my 2010 is in process of getting clutch plates and a couple other things done whenever I get a chance to work on it.


My 2010 speedometer with OEM final is basically spot-on at a +/- 1% depending on rear tire wear. So, I will need all 20.3% adjustment. If I were putting it on my 2002 (first yellow box was for this bike), I would be going with 12.75 increase and remove the 7.5% decrease it needed to be accurate (+/- 1% for tire wear) with OEM final. I had the older yellow box, so those numbers would be achievable.

Now, it would be nice to say "20% better MPG", but that is fiction due to friction, wind resistance, drag (technically - friction again), and the power needed to overcome all of that. I would be happy with 10%; but it is not pudding yet, only bags of base ingredients waiting for the cook to use them. I did not buy the box of "jello", I don't trust the shops here and I live too far away from Fred.
 

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Congratulations on your soon to be NEW bike

I think the actual adjustment might be more around 13%
I got the Dakota Digital Speed healer for mine and it was NO calculations needed --
A simple UP or Down on the buttons set the correct speed - MY Speedo and my GPS agree all the time now ;)


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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Congratulations on your soon to be NEW bike

I think the actual adjustment might be more around 13%
I got the Dakota Digital Speed healer for mine and it was NO calculations needed --
A simple UP or Down on the buttons set the correct speed - MY Speedo and my GPS agree all the time now ;)


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"More around 13%" would be for 2001-2008, and I mentioned that my 2002 would get 12.75%. Honda fixed the 7.5% high readings on 2009+. I used a Yellow box on my 2002 & 2006 and now have it on my 2005 M50 which was worse than my 2002 & 206 Wings. My 2010 did not need any speed correction. I went back to a Yellow Box because I did not like having to adjust "on the move" and I did not want to give more money to HealTech as I already purchased a piece of junk for a huge $$$ and given no support from them, not to mention them telling me un-true things about the GL1800's (pre-2018).
 

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Sorry Doug, you should not put this on your bike. It's like a Car Tire and the better thing is just give it to me. Let me know when you want to put it on for me. lol
See ya in August.
 

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I like me mine but have had to make a few riding adjustments. Particularly when navigating sharp uphill turns of which there are many in my neck of the woods. I’m having to drop one or two gears more than before. No biggie but a noticeable difference. Leaving the last two eek of March for a 700 mile trip, should be interesting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sorry Doug, you should not put this on your bike. It's like a Car Tire and the better thing is just give it to me. Let me know when you want to put it on for me. lol
See ya in August.
No, it is going on mine, and noting like a CT on a leaning machine. I am looking forward to having close to the same top gear RPM to speed on both 2010 & 2018. I will likely be on the 2010 in Aug. BB. I have asked for the day off, I just need to send in registration and lodging for a night. Maybe, I should re-wire my gear indicator to show "6" instead of "5"....... if not 2-6.... Nah, "5" will be OK; there are only 5 gears on my M50 and it still has a taller top gear than the 2018.
 

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I want to do last years ride too.
 

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In performance car gear ratios the stock gears are 2.72 which would be considered highway gears. And new ones are 2.28 which would be extreme highway gears that would good for a lot of top end, but it will be a dog for performance and acceleration will not be very good.

11÷4=2.75. 16÷7=2.28.

2.27÷2.75=.82 change.
 

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No, I have a '16, and 20% was a spot-on correction from 10 to 100 MPH while using a SpeedoDRD correction unit.
In performance car gear ratios the stock gears are 2.72 which would be considered highway gears. And new ones are 2.28 which would be extreme highway gears that would good for a lot of top end, but it will be a dog for performance and acceleration will not be very good.

11÷4=2.75. 16÷7=2.28.

2.27÷2.75=.82 change.

I wonder if it's because mine is an '02 and is/was off by a percentage and then the new final changed everything so it seems like 13% --
I never did the calculations becasue the Dakota Digital is a simple Up/Down adjustment done while riding at 60MPH as indicated on my GPS -
I did this on a country highway that is low traffic so I never felt it was a risky maneuver.
.
 

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Remember that on the earlier bikes, you're compensating for the known error that the actual speedometer itself had inherent in the original design.

It was around 2008 or 2009 that the both automotive and the powersports side got things tightened up, due to a lawsuit on the auto side of this equation.
 
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