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Discussion Starter #1
I have an 04 wing and am running a large amount of extra electrical.

I run a strobe power supply that draws 230 watts plus all the other electical draws. During a race a run high beams, driving lights (100 watt), 4 ways, and strobes.

While I have not experienced a real problem at the end of the longer races I can see a drop in voltage and I often do not have the luxury of letting the wing recharge before I have to stop. It has been sluggish to crank.

The alternator can handle the load but the battery gets drained at very low speed and restarts can be tricky after 2-3 hours running at low speed with that amount of current draw. The battery is taking the beating for the load at low speeds.

It's time to replace the OEM battery, any suggestion on a replacement that will up my capacity without making any mods? The travel trunk is exclusivly used for the power supply and cabling but an extra battery in the trunk may be an option.

Opinions?

Ideas??

Humorous Remarks???

 

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East Penn DEKA AGM
Thats what I run and have 800 LED show lights, driving lights plus some strobes. It handles my needs.
 

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Deka ETX20L Premium AGM
That battery has a 17.5 amp-hour rating.

The OEM Yuasa YTX20L-BS has a 18 amp-hour rating.

No improvement there...

I think you are looking at an additional battery and an isolator as your best option.
 

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Your battery is over four years old....I bet if you just replace it with a new one it'll be fine! IMHO :thumbup:

Mark
 

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I used 3 aftermarket batteries. None lasted over 3-4 months. Went back to the OEM Yuasa and no more problems.
 

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It is obviously your stock battery is being worn down. You have alot of load on the charging system. Certainly running in a lower gear than necessary to keep revs up may help some.

I personally like the idea of a second battery with isolator. Could you mount it on a pakitrack off the trailer hitch. that way you only have it hooked up and adding weight on days when needed. The rest of the time it could be sitting on the battery tender except when you are charging the regular bike battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The original OEM was replaced by the dealer at 24 months after it was dropped by accident in the shop. (UH, sorry boss, it was an accident)

The load is pretty stout:

Strobes: 230w
Headlights 440w
Driving lights 100w

Thats 770w

850w/ 13.5 volts = 57 amps

57/90 = .6337 or 63.4%

PLUS ingintion and all the tail and marker lights. Not to mention the fan. So lets say 850 total. at 13.5 volts and a 90 amp alternator thats a use of about 63% or roughly 2/3rds of the alternators capacity at full load.

Ive probaly logged more miles in 1st gear under 10 mph than I care to admit andf the alternator is not putting out enough to charge everything at low rpm.

The OEM does fine but I do a number of Olympic distance triathlons (24 mile and I make 3 laps) and 2 81 miles bicycle road races that can pull it down. Now I wont even mention the toll it takes on my butt! :rolleyes:
 

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It sounds like you need a substantially larger battery if you want to run off of one battery, and I just don't see that happening, even if you made modifications, in the stock location.

A second battery, wired to the lights, with an isolator, would substantially increase your total capacity, but more importantly, would keep the stock battery from being discharged by the extra load. You would never have to worry about the starter battery being dead.

Another benefit of an isolator would be to allow you to run a deep cycle battery for the lights, which would handle the repeated discharges better than the stock battery, which is not designed to be deeply discharged.
 

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USDyver
Headlights are normally 55W, thats 220W total. If you are running 110W bulbs I'd be more worried about the OEM wiring and relays. I'm pretty sure you are overloading the headlight circut and risk damage over the long term. I ran 100W bulbs in my 1500 years ago and everything was good for about a year then the low relay burnt, I replaced it and it lasted 6 months. I then replaced the bulbs with SilverStar 55W and never had another problem with the relay.

Just a thought!
 

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The new Heavy Duty Yuasa that Hal carries has about 30% more CCA than the previous model it replaces.

If you're still worried, maybe you could just string some real heavy gauge wire from the battery back into the CD changer compartment, and drop in a spare battery on those days when you have to do parade type riding, and then take it out when you are done and keep it on a trickle charge in the garage. You could probably even use your old battery for this. It seems like it wouldn't be too hard to set up some sort of quick disconnects in the trunk with a spare battery wired in parallel that you could pop in when needed. I would just be careful to put a high current fuse at the main battery connection to your new leads in case something shorted. You might even want to disconnect them from the main battery when not in use so you didn't have hot leads in the trunk with the potential for a short.

But you also might find that with one of the new higher capacity Yuasa's that you no longer have a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
USDyver
Headlights are normally 55W, thats 220W total. If you are running 110W bulbs I'd be more worried about the OEM wiring and relays. I'm pretty sure you are overloading the headlight circut and risk damage over the long term. I ran 100W bulbs in my 1500 years ago and everything was good for about a year then the low relay burnt, I replaced it and it lasted 6 months. I then replaced the bulbs with SilverStar 55W and never had another problem with the relay.
quote]

I've run the 100w bulbs for 3 seasons with no problem. I want and need the extra light. I have had racers tell me they have felt the heat from the lamps from a distance away.Baked tri-athelete anyone?

It has been called "the wall of light" by one of the PA announcers when I come towards the finish line.

Thanks all for the suggestions.
 

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Don't get caught up in the CCA numbers.

Every new DEKA ETX20L (Wing Replacement) that we have tested at our facility has had a CCA reading of over 400...a few at 420. The label says 270CCA.

DEKA is the OEM supplier to Harley and the same battery used in their bikes carries a label saying 300CCA. By contract, DEKA can't market a like size with same or higher CCA rating.

Hope you figure out your needs and solve your problem.
 

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Don't get caught up in the CCA numbers.
I agree. CCA is kind of like the horsepower of the battery, the peak amps that it can put out. Amp-Hours are the capacity, how much it actually holds, and more relavent to this discussion.
 

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I do a number of Olympic distance triathlons (24 mile and I make 3 laps) and 2 81 miles bicycle road races
Dang! I'm doing a sprint triathlon this summer and they told me I can only use a bike, wet suit and a pair of running shoes ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Dang! I'm doing a sprint triathlon this summer and they told me I can only use a bike, wet suit and a pair of running shoes ;)
I always get disqualified because I cant get the Wing up on the bicycle rack in T2 :joke:
 

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USdyver, OK, you ask! Install a RIVCO HITCH AND RACK AND A

HONDA GENERATOR AND A BATTERY CHARGER. :shock: :popcorn:
 

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USdyver, I am very interested in how you resolve this. Please be sure to let us know. If you add a battery and/or isolator, pictures would be great!

Thanks!
 
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