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I have a 2001 ABS with 111,300 miles on it. My SO and I just took a 5,000 mile trip to Yellowstone and back with a few detours along the way. The bike ran great, getting decent gas mileage all the way out and back.
Two days later I took the bike to work and on the way home the problem started. First the turn signals stopped working and when I parked it in the garage the bike would not shut off. I turned the key off and took it out of the ignition and it still would not shut off. After I shut it off with the kill switch I disconnected the battery.
I am totally baffled on what the problem could be or even where to start looking. I do a lot of reading up on this site so I know this is a good site to ask for help because there are so many on here that are knowledgeable about the wing. If you have any ideas as to what to look for or even where to start looking it would be greatly appreciated. I like to do as much of the work on my bike as I can but I do not know where to start looking for this problem.
Thank you in advance for the help with this problem. I hope this is enough for somebody to have an idea as to what to look for. But if not, and you have questions then please PM me and I will answer back. Basically the turn signals do not work, the bike will not shut off but everything else is working great.

Craig
 

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I have a 2001 ABS with 111,300 miles on it. My SO and I just took a 5,000 mile trip to Yellowstone and back with a few detours along the way. The bike ran great, getting decent gas mileage all the way out and back.
Two days later I took the bike to work and on the way home the problem started. First the turn signals stopped working and when I parked it in the garage the bike would not shut off. I turned the key off and took it out of the ignition and it still would not shut off. After I shut it off with the kill switch I disconnected the battery.
I am totally baffled on what the problem could be or even where to start looking. I do a lot of reading up on this site so I know this is a good site to ask for help because there are so many on here that are knowledgeable about the wing. If you have any ideas as to what to look for or even where to start looking it would be greatly appreciated. I like to do as much of the work on my bike as I can but I do not know where to start looking for this problem.
Thank you in advance for the help with this problem. I hope this is enough for somebody to have an idea as to what to look for. But if not, and you have questions then please PM me and I will answer back. Basically the turn signals do not work, the bike will not shut off but everything else is working great.

Craig
My first thought is BAD IGNITION SWITCH! Ford Windstar did the craziest things...all were result of bad ignition switch.
 

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Someone on here had the same issue with the bike not shutting off. I can't find the post tho. Somebody will come along with the fix....for sure!!!!
 

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My 07GW started doing the same thing at 128.000mi, I figured probably bad ignition switch.
My solution? traded it in on a 2012GW:nojoke: But not for that alone.:lol:
 

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Some times the A & B relays like to go bad and need to be replaced.
The relay stays closed causing you to have to pull the battery cable to get it to stop and very possible the gentlemen here are correct with the ignition switch since your bike finally shut off with the kill switch.
 

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If it shuts off with the kill switch or putting the kickstand with the bike in gear than I would say it's the ignition switch also.
 

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it's just it's way of telling you to keep ridin
 

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If the kill switch always stops the engine, I agree with checking the ign switch. Also check the wires and switch plug real close for rub points or damage from overheated wires and connectors. If the kill switch doesn't always stop the engine, F1 Ign Relay under the seat is the prime suspect. Unfortunately, the shelter has to come off to get to the ign switch/wiring. Hopefully, it's the switch or relay. Since the switch feeds power to a number of bike systems, a rare but possible short in another system (like turn signals relay) could feed power to the ignition with the switch off. See if there are other symptoms. For example, does the switch fail to turn off the engine all the time. If not, with the engine running, operate other systems (like turn signals) one at a time to see if the engine keeps running with the switch off after operating each system. Send a PM if you need any wiring diagrams.
 

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I have a 2001 ABS with 111,300 miles on it. My SO and I just took a 5,000 mile trip to Yellowstone and back with a few detours along the way. The bike ran great, getting decent gas mileage all the way out and back.
Two days later I took the bike to work and on the way home the problem started. First the turn signals stopped working and when I parked it in the garage the bike would not shut off. I turned the key off and took it out of the ignition and it still would not shut off. After I shut it off with the kill switch I disconnected the battery.
I am totally baffled on what the problem could be or even where to start looking. I do a lot of reading up on this site so I know this is a good site to ask for help because there are so many on here that are knowledgeable about the wing. If you have any ideas as to what to look for or even where to start looking it would be greatly appreciated. I like to do as much of the work on my bike as I can but I do not know where to start looking for this problem.
Thank you in advance for the help with this problem. I hope this is enough for somebody to have an idea as to what to look for. But if not, and you have questions then please PM me and I will answer back. Basically the turn signals do not work, the bike will not shut off but everything else is working great.

Craig
I can't help.
"I Am the Man" should be along soon and will tell you what the problem is and the fix.
 

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I believe it was Matt that had the problem, and in his case I think it was the main harness that was the problem. That seems to be what my memory tells me.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thank you for all the replies. I will get ahold of Matt (BCNV) when I get back home, as I am out of town for the weekend.
 

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There was a guy on here a LONG time ago that had the same problem and traced it to a problem in a connector under the seat near the trunk. I believe it was applying power from the trunk lock circuit (which is always hot) to the ignition circuit.

I'll see if I can dig up the post.
 

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Here ya go.

http://gl1800riders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=160238

http://gl1800riders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=144571

RESOLUTION / REASONING / REPAIR:
Honda manufacturing has made a one-to-three wire (RED/WHT wire) connection (splice) at the rear of the bike located under the seat and just under the passenger left-side convenience pocket (just before connector “C-14”). This splice connection is wrapped in a blue-colored vinyl-like silicone covering that degrades over time (due in part to the passive voltage (0.25 volts) constantly applied to the remote trunk-lock assembly module through this RED/WHT wire) and causes it to effectively “liquefy” which, after years (I guess) of oozing and blistering, eventually creates a conductive pathway through the wire bundle and short-circuits to the frame. Incidentally, this same wire-splice connection is directly located at sharp and very tight 90-degree bend of the wiring bundle over a steel frame support member – BINGO !!
Because this RED/WH wire is essentially "hot" (with 0.25 volts) at all times and, if the degrading blue wire-splice wrap becomes conductive, then the blistering begins (and accelerates) and eventually the ooze makes its way through the tape-wrapped wire bundle and onto the frame (if all the planets are lined up just right) causing the circuit to "short" and, more accurately in this case, "back-feed" voltage causing other "electrical systems" (relays, electronic modules, etc.) to engage and thus putting the motorcycle in the "key-ON" state. WOW!! Yeah, I know – what are the odds here?

This diagnosis is important because the symptoms of this "short" makes one (even those who may be very electrically savvy) totally convinced that the "ignition switch" is bad OR that the FI/IGN relay is bad. Sorry – not the case.

This motorcycle is so incredibly electrically inter-connected that a "single-wire" schematic trouble-shooting analysis is just not practical (as I painfully learned). There are so many ways for a passively-active circuit to "short" and send erroneous voltage “back feeding” through numerous circuits and relays.

After spending considerable time in both tearing down the bike and trouble-shooting the problem, I hope that this discovery will assist many people that own GL1800A's that may be subject to this eventual (and possibly inevitable) failure.

So remember, the next time your Honda GL1800A decides to "turn itself ON" for absolutely no apparent reason whatsoever, don't waste much time in beating your head against the wall (as I did), go directly to this factory wiring "defect".
 

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Here is another thing you might want to check.

My SO had a similar problem with her 02 GL1800. Turning off the key did not stop the engine, one head light was weak and the other was off. Also the neutral light would not go off. It turned out to be a bad ground connection in connector C7. It's a 22 pin grey connector in the fairing ahead of the left pocket. There is a large pin in that conn. that carries all the grounds for the front of the bike. The pin was a dark grey color like it had been hot at one time. Could not clean it so I put a heavy jumper around it. No problems since and the bike has gone a lot of miles since.
 
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