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Discussion Starter #1
I have the fork tubes completely off the bike and everything off of the top tree (handlebars, hoses, clamps, cables, etc). I can only get it to lift up about a 1/2" or more, but that's it. It almost seems as though the lip that hangs over right above the steering lock is keeping it from coming up and off straight.

Any ideas?
 

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Without knowing the year and options on your bike tough to say. On my 02 I only need to twist the top around clockwise about 20 degrees or so and wiggle it out. It does not come straight up and out. Twist your lips and hold your nose just so and it will come out.:lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Without knowing the year and options on your bike tough to say. On my 02 I only need to twist the top around clockwise about 20 degrees or so and wiggle it out. It does not come straight up and out. Twist your lips and hold your nose just so and it will come out.:lol:

Nothing special...2008 Premium Audio. I just don't want to mess up the threads on the stem. I pulled and slammed it pretty hard. It comes to a hard stop like metal to metal.
 

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I have a 2006 w/ NAV. The bracket under the keylock that extends up is held on by 2 bolts at the bottom of the bracket. You have to remove the top shelter to access these 2 bolts. I don't know if you have the same bracket since you don't have NAV. My instrument cluster is held in place by 4 bolts. 2 on either side at the top and 2 on either side at the bottom connected to 'ears' that extend at angles up and away from the bracket we're talking about. Once this bracket was removed I could remove the top tree.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Crap! Yes, I think I have the same bracket. In the center of the bracket (between the ears) there is a lip that extends out, right above where the steering lock cylinder comes out. I REALLY didn't want to remove the top shell. Thanks for the reply. Guess I'm this far.

One of the reasons I'm kind of leary about purchasing a "how to" DVD set for the bike. There have been so many changes (for a bike that hasn't changed much...LOL) I'd be concerned that many things would be different.


I have a 2006 w/ NAV. The bracket under the keylock that extends up is held on by 2 bolts at the bottom of the bracket. You have to remove the top shelter to access these 2 bolts. I don't know if you have the same bracket since you don't have NAV. My instrument cluster is held in place by 4 bolts. 2 on either side at the top and 2 on either side at the bottom connected to 'ears' that extend at angles up and away from the bracket we're talking about. Once this bracket was removed I could remove the top tree.
 

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Even though there are changes, Fred's DVDs have been invaluable. Without them and the Hinda Service manual, there's NO WAY I would attempt any of this. Fred's DVDs are GREAT.
 

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Crap! Yes, I think I have the same bracket. In the center of the bracket (between the ears) there is a lip that extends out, right above where the steering lock cylinder comes out. I REALLY didn't want to remove the top shell. Thanks for the reply. Guess I'm this far.

just had the top shelter off my 08 navi , its not really that big of a deal. 1/2 hour tops. a few plug connectors areound the pockets , a few on the radio (careful of the little back antenna cable) ! Just keep the bolts in order from top to bottom they are not all the same. I think fred H trimmed the bracket at the key switch so he can service the neck bearings with out removeing the top shelter the second time. take a look at his photo log , I am sure there is something listed. I only have 450 miles on mine and pulled the forks to ship them to traxxion, had it apart to install roller bearings in the neck...... Yes your correct I do have something wrong with me........ I want it to handle like my old sport bike or as close as poss!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
just had the top shelter off my 08 navi , its not really that big of a deal. 1/2 hour tops. a few plug connectors areound the pockets , a few on the radio (careful of the little back antenna cable) ! Just keep the bolts in order from top to bottom they are not all the same. I think fred H trimmed the bracket at the key switch so he can service the neck bearings with out removeing the top shelter the second time. take a look at his photo log , I am sure there is something listed. I only have 450 miles on mine and pulled the forks to ship them to traxxion, had it apart to install roller bearings in the neck...... Yes your correct I do have something wrong with me........ I want it to handle like my old sport bike or as close as poss!
LOL! Well...you got me beat then...I have 700 miles on mine!!

I wonder if it's possible to trim that lip while it's on the bike. I don't know if I can get a Dremel in there or not.

The pain I can see is...what if I want to try a different torque setting on the All Balls? Then it all would have to come apart again just to make what would be a semi quick adjustment if it weren't for that darn lip.
 

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You can remove the bracket without removing the shelter. Remove the rubber gromments near the ignition swtich, then you can reach down there with the 8mm tee wrench, put something sticky on the wrench to hold the screw as you lift it out. Then you can remove the bracket, you have to spread plastic a little. Trim it before putting it back, so you don't have to do this again.
 

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I did a full write upon this a while back the bracket needs to be cut the first time off then you can get the tree top off with out removing the top shelter, let me see id I can find it

Here is a link I was going back and forth with Fred on this when he discovered it, it also has some pictures of the cutting, page two of this post about half way down
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I did a full write upon this a while back the bracket needs to be cut the first time off then you can get the tree top off with out removing the top shelter, let me see id I can find it

Here is a link I was going back and forth with Fred on this when he discovered it, it also has some pictures of the cutting, page two of this post about half way down
I just got the bracket off about 15 minutes ago. The bolts that hold it on are kind of weird...they BARELY have a hex shape for an allen wrench to grab. They're almost round!...and no, I didn't round them.

I cut the lip off the bracket with a dremel cutting disk. Hopefully it's enough.

Tricky getting the bracket out. The tree gets in the way of the bracket and the bracket gets in the way of the tree! So, they both had to be coaxed.

I still would like to see the link though if you find it.

Thanks!
Russ
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You can remove the bracket without removing the shelter. Remove the rubber gromments near the ignition swtich, then you can reach down there with the 8mm tee wrench, put something sticky on the wrench to hold the screw as you lift it out. Then you can remove the bracket, you have to spread plastic a little. Trim it before putting it back, so you don't have to do this again.
Thanks for the tip. I didn't do it exactly as you did. Let's just say the plastic around the ignition switch has A LOT of give to it...LOL!
 

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Thanks Fox! While I still had the upper (speaker?) cover off, I used your technique through the grommet holes to take the bracket off. Nerve racking getting the bolts out without dropping them into never, never land. Done deal. Cut the bracket with the Dremel and got it back in. Thanks for the info. This way the when I need to go in and tighten the All Balls after a while I won't have to take the shelter off.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I did the same thing...hopefully the tree will clear the next time.

The All Balls REALLY make a HUGE difference...and my bike only has just over 700 miles on it. I'm half tempted to take off some other stuff I put on to see if the All Balls is what made ALL or at least MOST of the difference in handling.
 
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