[MiWinger51]

I took my wife for a short ride this evening. We rode about 15 miles and stopped about a mile from home to fill up with fuel. Went to start the bike and it was dead. No lights, no starter, no lights on the dash. I checked fuses, kill switch, made sure I was in neutral still nothing. Went home and got my battery tender and plugged it in hoping to get enough charge to get it home. Battery tender said the battery was 80% charged. Finally went back and got my trailer and got it home. I am hoping that someone might have a good idea what the problem could be. I know one thing I will be spending tomorrow running down leads.


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[doug of no fl]

1st check battery 'LEADS" clean & tight?? Next Fuses, What year , miles Mods.??

 

[cjclint]

easy to accidentally bump/move the kill switch, make sure it is turned off

 

[MiWinger51]

1st check battery 'LEADS" clean & tight?? Next Fuses, What year , miles Mods.??

Tonight I am going to bed. I did check to see that the screws that hold the leads were tight but will remove the battery tomorrow and clean the leads and charge the battery fully. The bike is a 2006 HPNA with 18500 miles. The only things done electrically has been the addition of a Kissan headlight modulator, battery tender leads, and a dual USB port in the left cubby. All have been on the bike for couple of years. It is so strange, the bike was running perfectly. My wife got off at the gas pump while I straddled the bike and filled it up. We were going to sit down and have an ice cream cone . She went in while I finished the fill up. From that time forward the bike had no power .


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[Pooch]

How old is the battery? When you try start it again, put a volt meter on the battery and see what the volts go down to. Anything less then about 10 volts, get a new battery.

 

[Joflewbyu2]

Had a very similar situation happen to me. Went to convenience store and came out to a completely dead. Thought it was weird as I never had any previous weak start or battery issue before. Voltage tester showed 12 volts and I checked the main fuse. Tried the tester again and it showed inconsistent readings. Decided to take the battery out and get a new one from Wally World as it was Sunday when I noticed corrosion on the battery terminal lead side that attaches to the battery’s post. Simple soda and wiped clean and off I went. Been fine ever since.

 

[MiWinger51]

The saga continues

Had a very similar situation happen to me. Went to convenience store and came out to a completely dead. Thought it was weird as I never had any previous weak start or battery issue before. Voltage tester showed 12 volts and I checked the main fuse. Tried the tester again and it showed inconsistent readings. Decided to take the battery out and get a new one from Wally World as it was Sunday when I noticed corrosion on the battery terminal lead side that attaches to the battery’s post. Simple soda and wiped clean and off I went. Been fine ever since.

I gave your suggestion a try this morning. There was a slight bit of corrosion on the positive lead so I disconnected the battery completely and cleaned all the leads and posts and then reconnected. When I turned the key to on the bike is still dead, The only sign of life is that the neutral light comes on for an instant and then turns off again. So I'm back to square one. I will run over to my shop and get my electrical multi tester and check the output of the battery. Thanks for the suggestion

 

[tamathumper]

If you can get your hands on a lithium jumper pack, try that.

Quick and easy test, at least.

 

[INTHEWIND]

Battery.. How old is the one you have now?:serious:

 

[GoldWingrGreg]

I gave your suggestion a try this morning. There was a slight bit of corrosion on the positive lead so I disconnected the battery completely and cleaned all the leads and posts and then reconnected. When I turned the key to on the bike is still dead, The only sign of life is that the neutral light comes on for an instant and then turns off again. So I'm back to square one. I will run over to my shop and get my electrical multi tester and check the output of the battery. Thanks for the suggestion

Remove your battery and have it tested. If it needs replaced, be sure to get the Yuasa recommended for your bike. Nothing more, nothing less.

 

[MiWinger51]

Remove your battery and have it tested. If it needs replaced, be sure to get the Yuasa recommended for your bike. Nothing more, nothing less.

The battery shows 14 volts with no load but 3.5 volts when the key is turned on when checking with my multi meter. I will take the battery to Auto zone to have it tested. What Yousa battery do you recommend?

 

[Lonnie]

Lot's of threads like this, "stopped at convenience store" and when I tried to start it, nothing happens. I have a solution for this, looks like we shouldn't stop at convenience stores. :lol::lol::lol:
It's happened to me too:grin2:

 

[GoldWingrGreg]

The battery shows 14 volts with no load but 3.5 volts when the key is turned on when checking with my multi meter. I will take the battery to Auto zone to have it tested. What Yousa battery do you recommend?

That sounds like a bad battery. My advise ... only use a battery maintainer when instructed to in your Owner's Manual. Everyone who uses one, leaves the garage with false hope. Of coarse the battery will crank and start the engine ... it was just taken off a changer !!!

Here's the reality. Somewhere in the Owner's Manual, Honda says to replace the battery every 2-3 years. A healthy battery will easily start the engine even after sitting 4 weeks. When a maintainer is used, the rider looses out on hearing a struggling battery slowly turn the engine over, and down the road they are caught by surprise.

 

[thecruiser]

The battery shows 14 volts with no load but 3.5 volts when the key is turned on when checking with my multi meter. I will take the battery to Auto zone to have it tested. What Yousa battery do you recommend?

Al, I have a digital volt meter that is connected all the time. Easy to see at multiple times, Key on before start, key on and engine running, key on and 'starting' engine.

A 'no-load condition' can show a full voltage battery while when adding load can show the voltage dumping because of a bad battery or poor connection. I can watch my battery condition or voltage worsen over time.


Could be corrosion on the terminals, more likely, the end of your batterys life! :frown2:


PS: if you haven't heard, the week of July 14th, our son-in-law and 9 year-old grandson are Riding the Natchez Trace from Nashville to Natchez,... and back. It will be my grandson's first long-distance mc Ride. We're all excited. :grin2:

 

[techdude2000]

That sounds like a bad battery. My advise ... only use a battery maintainer when instructed to in your Owner's Manual. Everyone who uses one, leaves the garage with false hope. Of coarse the battery will crank and start the engine ... it was just taken off a changer !!!

Here's the reality. Somewhere in the Owner's Manual, Honda says to replace the battery every 2-3 years. A healthy battery will easily start the engine even after sitting 4 weeks. When a maintainer is used, the rider looses out on hearing a struggling battery slowly turn the engine over, and down the road they are caught by surprise.

Yep, that battery is disconnecting internally when loaded. Time for a new one, having it load tested is a waste of time with your voltage measurement results.

 

[Farmguy]

The battery shows 14 volts with no load but 3.5 volts when the key is turned on when checking with my multi meter. I will take the battery to Auto zone to have it tested. What Yousa battery do you recommend?

GYZ20L

or

YTX20L-BS


(the - BS suffix is added to the 'Bottle Supplied' version of the YTX20L. It gets filled and initialized after purchase, as opposed to at the factory.)

Initialization is easy to do, but follow all the (clear, well written) instructions. Proper initialization has a huge impact on battery performance and life.

 

[Big_Bear]

The battery shows 14 volts with no load but 3.5 volts when the key is turned on when checking with my multi meter. I will take the battery to Auto zone to have it tested. What Yousa battery do you recommend?

Before you buy another overseas Yuasa battery, Goggle Deka ETX20L. Deka batteries are made right here in the USA by a family owned US business (East Penn) and are an excellent upgrade. The only powersports battery I would spend my money on. Research it, don't take my word for it.

 

[techdude2000]

The Duracell from SamsClub is pretty good as well, probably made by East Penn.

 

[GoldWingrGreg]

Before you buy another overseas Yuasa battery, Goggle Deka ETX20L. Deka batteries are made right here in the USA by a family owned US business (East Penn) and are an excellent upgrade. The only powersports battery I would spend my money on. Research it, don't take my word for it.

5th gen Yuasa's are made in America.

 

[Farmguy]

Before you buy another overseas Yuasa battery, Goggle Deka ETX20L. Deka batteries are made right here in the USA by a family owned US business (East Penn) and are an excellent upgrade. The only powersports battery I would spend my money on. Research it, don't take my word for it.

"Yuasa Battery, Inc. has been manufacturing powersports batteries in the United States to uncompromisingly high standards since 1979. We are the largest American manufacturer and distributor of batteries for motorcycles, snowmobiles, scooters, all terrain vehicles, side by sides and personal watercraft."


https://www.yuasabatteries.com/about/