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OK, I know this was covered before.I used the Search feature and can't find it.I bought and built a Velleman Interval timer kit.I tapped into my high beam switch at the foglamp connecter.connected the timer and because my transmitter is 3Volt I installed a voltage transformer to go from 12Volt to 3Volt.I hooked up the transmitter W/button locked down and the opener won't work.If I diconnect the transmitter and install battery it works fine.Could there be a problem with amperage? I checked the voltages at the timer and transmitter and get the proper voltages.I have a Chamberlain model 9950 that uses a model 950CB Transmitter. Is there anyone here that can!! HELP!! Jim
 

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Jim, is the transformer you installed an AC transformer. If so it will not work with the DC voltage in your bike. Check your local auto shop to see if they have something that will step the DC voltage down for you.
 

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Jim,

If you want to know what to do on thism Speak with an expert.

Send JON a PM or Email. This guy is a genius, and one heck of a nice fellow.

Bulldog
 

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Jim Ciampi said:
OK, I know this was covered before.I used the Search feature and can't find it.I bought and built a Velleman Interval timer kit.I tapped into my high beam switch at the foglamp connecter.connected the timer and because my transmitter is 3Volt I installed a voltage transformer to go from 12Volt to 3Volt.
I'm assuming that you used a voltage regulator and not a transformer, right? (As noted above, transformers are for AC - you'll need a voltage regulator for DC)

Jim Ciampi said:
I hooked up the transmitter W/button locked down and the opener won't work.If I diconnect the transmitter and install battery it works fine.
If you install the battery and the opener opens immediately, then it sounds like you're not getting the proper voltage source to the transmitter.

Jim Ciampi said:
Could there be a problem with amperage? I checked the voltages at the timer and transmitter and get the proper voltages.
I would check the voltages again, and make sure of the polarity of the connection to the opener. The fact that the opener operates when you install the battery means that all you need to make it work will the be proper level and polarity of voltage, supplied from the timer. You said that you checked the voltages: you should have 12V on the input of the timer when you switch to high beam. I would have installed the 3V voltage regulator on the timer itself and powered it from the output of the timer relay contact. The output of the voltage regulator (and a ground wire) would then go to the battery connections on the remote. I would check again the voltage levels at each of these points:
  • Input to the timer
    Input to the voltage regulator (output of the timer relay - make sure there's a jumper between +12V and the COM terminal of the relay)
    Output of the voltage regulator
    Input to the remote transmitter (verifying polarity at the battery terminals)
Most of the people that have done this on their own have forgotten the jumper that provides power for the relay contact or forgot to terminate the negative power source at the relay.

One last thing, Jim: If you leave off the "Pause" potentiometer (upper left corner of the timer) you'll get a single pulse output when you energize your high beams. Also, while troubleshooting, you can turn the "Pulse" time up so that the relay stays energized longer for testing purposes.

Let me know if you have any further problems, you can PM me or email me if you like.
 

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Different approach to same problem

After reading the threads in the past about this topic of door openers I decided to attack the problem. I have several door openers that are not being used and so I took one apart and unsoldered one of the terminals in the switch and soldered two wires onto the contacts. I then bought a doorbell button from a local lumber yard and attached it to the wires. The doorbell button had a light in it that had to be removed because it kept the circuit closed all the time. Now it works great either by the button or direct contact with the door opener. I don't have my 04 yet, but all that is require is a 5/8" hole and the button will snap right in. The button is less than 1/8" tall and 3/4" in diameter. I am going to paint the white button black and it will blend right in.
 

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Gerald, I did basically the same thing, only I wired it into the push to talk cb button on the left handlebar, as I don't plan on getting a cb. It works great. :lol:
 

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We took a tip from someone on this board and velcroed it up under the left side of the instrument cover. It's not visible but can easily be reached by curling a gloved finger up under the cover. Been there for months and still working great.
 

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Lucky Phil,

I hope that you disconnected the switch from the bikes wiring. It is possible that you could damage the audio unit if you are applying an external voltage or ground, sourced from the opener.

Not having a CB does not leave the PTT switch disconnected form the bikes electronics. The PTT switch on an 1800 goes into the audio unit, unlike a 1500 that goes directly to the CB.
 
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