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I have 2006 gl1800 with markland backrest. When pulling seat for air filter replacement found bolts and bolt hole stripped out. I hope that i am not the first to have this happen, does anyone have any solutions to this problem. Thanks for any suggestions
 

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stripped thread

If the threads are stripped in the frame, install helicoil thread repair inserts and use the stock size bolt(s) for the seat. Good as new.... if not better.
 

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Had the same problem. I found at the hardware store what i will call threaded inserts (probably not the technical term). Took the seat bolt in, made sure I had the correct metric threads in the insert, I drilled out the existing bolt hole to the size needed to fit in the insert. Put the original bolt back in, tightened it up and it has held fine. I've taken the seat off several times since with no problems getting the bolt started again. If you can't find a insert for the existing threads just get another bolt the same length to fit the insert you found.
 

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If the threads are stripped in the frame, install helicoil thread repair inserts and use the stock size bolt(s) for the seat. Good as new.... if not better.
As above, it is the best repair and you then have stock bolts and stainless threads.

Trev.
 

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I ended up rethreading the hole. What a PITA.
 

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Next time you will hopefully apply an anti-sieze to the easily-galled aluminum female threads and the mating steel bolt threads. For those who have not had the problem yet - heed the warning! BTW, stainless steel helicoils love to gall to stainless steel bolts, too! Apply antisieze (I use a product called "Neolube" which may be hard to find but any good antisieze should do) to male and female threads sparingly, clean off any old before applying new.
 

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. . . For those who have not had the problem yet - heed the warning! BTW, stainless steel helicoils love to gall to stainless steel bolts, too! Apply antisieze. . ..
:agree: Anti-sieze is a good thing. Use it often.
 
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To me, this is another poor design issue. Like hiding the air filter under too much crap, the removal and installation of the seat is too much of a pita. I've got helicoils in my future too, but can't believe I can't come up with a better system.
 

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To me, this is another poor design issue. Like hiding the air filter under too much crap, the removal and installation of the seat is too much of a pita. I've got helicoils in my future too, but can't believe I can't come up with a better system.
:agree: I can't imagine why they use four large bolts, anyway - the seat isn't going to fly off while I'm sitting on it. On a couple of customs I built, the seats had no bolts, but just four Delrin blocks to hold it within the frame.
 

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:agree: I can't imagine why they use four large bolts, anyway - the seat isn't going to fly off while I'm sitting on it. On a couple of customs I built, the seats had no bolts, but just four Delrin blocks to hold it within the frame.
The last time I looked the 4 big bolts held the seat handles on. One side of which you use to reef the big bike on to its main stand.
Now if it was a puny bolt that broke? where would you be?
And if it falls over, (or you drop it), you pick it up by these handles!!

Trev.
 

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The last time I looked the 4 big bolts held the seat handles on. One side of which you use to reef the big bike on to its main stand.
Now if it was a puny bolt that broke? where would you be?
And if it falls over, (or you drop it), you pick it up by these handles!!

Trev.
That's a real good reason to have a couple of handles bolted on, but they shouldn't have to come off to get to stuff under the seat.
 

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our bmw 1150rt has a key lock to remove the seat, it takes 2.3 seconds

the handles stay on the frame where they belong

maybe the next generation of wings will make it easier
 

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The Wing just has too much bodywork to expose the frame. So I guess a dual function bolt was a smart way to go.
The Wing is what it is and why we love to hate it. The air cleaner is a good example of this love hate relationship.
The Evo 6, should it happen, would be a nice bike, but you cannot carry stuff unless you wear a pack.
It would also be nice to have a new Valkyrie. The 4 seat bolts are the least of my concerns. And, as there is zero storage under the seat, its removal is really a maintenance function.

Trev.
 

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poor fitting custom seats and backrests are 2 of the the biggest reasons for these stripped thread problems
 

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I am a little puzzled why there is a problem with stripping these threads. If you have cross threaded them, then I can see how they can get really buggered up in big hurry, but that is always due to not paying attention to what you are doing, not getting them aligned, and then forcing the issue. These bolts do not need to be torqued down really tight. True, they are holding on the passenger grab handles, but pressure would be applies as a shearing angle to the bolt, so snug is good enough. I realized before I put the seat back on the very first time that the threads were in the aluminum frame, so I applied Never-Sieze. They were really tight the first half-dozen times taking the seat off and on, but now they are just right. If your seat bolts are floppy loose going in, maybe you are doing too much maintenance! :lol:

Not trying to make light of your problem. 30yearwinger has the right fix by recommending "helicoil thread repair inserts". Since I think they are made of stainless steel, that should eliminate any future galling problems, even if you don't use Never-Sieze on the threads.

Even if helicoils are not stainless steel, being steel eliminates the steel vs aluminum interface, since that is what causes most galling problems. Galling is also a huge problem with parts that are in an environment which promotes rust/corrosion (boats, especially those used in salt water) or for parts subject to huge temperature cycles (exhault system bolts and nuts). I NEVER replace an exhaust header without new bolts, studs, and nuts and I ALWAYS put Never-Sieze on the threads.

Good luck with your repair.
 

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30yearwinger has the right fix by recommending "helicoil thread repair inserts". Since I think they are made of stainless steel, that should eliminate any future galling problems, even if you don't use Never-Sieze on the threads. .
As pdjones mentions above, stainless steel Helicoils are VERY prone to gall mating fasteners. By all means, use anti-sieze.
 

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I am on my second Wing and after learning from the first one, the first time I removed the seat on the second one I ran a tap through the holes to clean out the paint and whatever else was in the holes. I also ran a die down the bolts. Before reassembling, I put a light coat of anti-seize compound on the bolt threads.

Once I did this this, it was much easier to start and thread the bolts. I believe part of the problem is that the threads are contaminated with the paint from the frame. That makes them hard to start. On the American Chopper shows one of the first things they do when they get parts back from powder coat, paint, or chrome is to clean out the holes and threads so things fit properly. Same thing here.

I install the seat and check the alignment of the holes in the frame with a flashlight. Once I've done that, I can easily start the bolts just by wiggling the seat slightly.

Having a more easily removed seat, or for that matter air cleaner, would be nicer, but the design of the bike does not lend itself to that. If you want an air cleaner you can change quickly, buy a bike that has one hanging out on the side.

Everything is a compromise when designing something.
 

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I found that the bolts could be longer with no problem. Got bolts 1/2 inch longer and tappered the threads back a little , run a threader on the bolts and the threads . Use never sieze and have not had any problems . You will find that the bolts that is factory does not go all the way through. Need longer bolts especially if you add arm rests.
 
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