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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just finished flushing the brakes and went to do the clutch, only to find out I can't get any fluid to flow out of the bleeder. I pulled vacuum on it and it held while opening the bleeder at least a full turn. I disconnected the Mityvac and unscrewed the bleeder until it wept around the threads, but nothing ever came out of the center hole.

Can the bleeder be removed and cleaned or does it need to be replaced?

Will all of the fluid drain from the reservoir with it removed?
 

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Put the cover back on the clutch master, that will keep the fluid from draining and getting lots of air in the line.

Now you can remove the bleed fitting and clean the fluid passage port.

Put it back in and bleed the system .
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Kit, I'll give that a shot. I opened it up a few turns and ran a piece of bailing wire around the inside of the hole hoping it would open it up. The wire had some fluid on it but no go on getting it to give up the juice on its own...I think there's a bunch of gunk there holding up progress.
 

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Thanks Kit, I'll give that a shot. I opened it up a few turns and ran a piece of bailing wire around the inside of the hole hoping it would open it up. The wire had some fluid on it but no go on getting it to give up the juice on its own...I think there's a bunch of gunk there holding up progress.
How long has it been since the last flush???
 

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After loosening the bleeder, are you pulling the clutch lever? It will not gravity feed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If you bleed your brakes and clutch every 10-12k there won't be any crap to remove.
The previous owner indicated in the book that the brakes were flushed at 12,800 miles, but no mention about the clutch. I bought the bike with 25,229 on it a year ago, and the dealership (not Honda) said all the fluids were changed with the 24k service, and it had a 'newer' clutch in it. The bike has 36,762 on it now, which puts me at 10-12k if it was properly maintained and I wasn't lied to. That's the best I can do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
After loosening the bleeder, are you pulling the clutch lever? It will not gravity feed.
Joe, I'm using a Mityvac as Fred illustrates in the entertainment video. I did also try the lever for poops-n-giggles with no results.
 

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I change brake and clutch fluids every two years, I don't go by mileage.
I think time has a bigger impact on the fluid than mileage.
I do the coolant change at the same time.
Anyway it seems to work for me.
 

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The previous owner indicated in the book that the brakes were flushed at 12,800 miles, but no mention about the clutch. I bought the bike with 25,229 on it a year ago, and the dealership (not Honda) said all the fluids were changed with the 24k service, and it had a 'newer' clutch in it. The bike has 36,762 on it now, which puts me at 10-12k if it was properly maintained and I wasn't lied to. That's the best I can do.
I did t mean to make it sound like a criticism. No offense meant.
 

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After loosening the bleeder, are you pulling the clutch lever? It will not gravity feed.
:agree:

I change brake and clutch fluids every two years, I don't go by mileage.
I think time has a bigger impact on the fluid than mileage.
I do the coolant change at the same time.
Anyway it seems to work for me.
:agree:

I seem to recall my Mity-Vac will not draw fluid past the piston in the master unless you pull in the clutch lever. FYI inspect and wipe out all the slimey gunk that MIGHT be accumulated on the floor of the reservoir. I had some at one point and noticed it was a bit milky looking and thought to myself that might be easy to overlook.

During this service I always soak up the old fluid in the reservoir with paper towel, clean and dry it without any chemical just paper towel, then refill with fresh DOT 4. (Careful of any spilled or dripped DOT 4 as it will damage paint if not cleaned up quickly with a towel damped with water. Careful not to dislodge and lose the little metal "tang" that rests over the small hole to deflect fluid.)

This is from my 01-05 service manual and the method I use to successfully bleed the clutch system:
If a brake bleeder is not available, use the following
procedure:
Pump the clutch lever until lever resistance is felt.
Connect a bleed hose to the bleed valve and bleed
the system as follows:
1. Squeeze the clutch lever, open the bleed valve
1/4 of a turn and then close it.
NOTE: Do not release the clutch lever until the bleed
valve has been closed.
2. Release the clutch lever slowly and wait several
seconds after it reaches the end of its travel.
Repeat steps 1 and 2 until air bubbles do not appear
in the bleed hose.
Tighten the bleed valve.
TORQUE: 9 N·m (0.9 kgf·m, 6.5 lbf·ft)
Fill the reservoir to the casting ledge with DOT 4
brake fluid from a sealed container.
Install the diaphragm, set plate and reservoir cap,
and tighten the cap screws.
TORQUE: 2 N·m (0.2 kgf·m, 1.4 lbf·ft)
Install the EVAP canister (page 5-109).

P.S. If you don't have a helper to pump the lever, you can keep it depressed with a rubber band to the handlebar grip while you open the bleeder. This works for manually bleeding the front brake calipers too. I use a short rubber cargo strap from the rear brake pedal hooked to my lift table when bleeding the linked rear brake system. Takes longer but if you don't have a helper you gotta be able to help yourself :thumbup:.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I did t mean to make it sound like a criticism. No offense meant.
No offense taken Too Tall...thanks. One of the bad things about buying used stuff :cry:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I seem to recall my Mity-Vac will not draw fluid past the piston in the master unless you pull in the clutch lever.
I don't think I pulled the lever while under vacuum. I did pull the lever with the bleeder open, no Mityvac, just a hose. No go. I can try it under vacuum easy enough.

FYI inspect and wipe out all the slimey gunk that MIGHT be accumulated on the floor of the reservoir. I had some at one point and noticed it was a bit milky looking and thought to myself that might be easy to overlook. During this service I always soak up the old fluid in the reservoir with paper towel, clean and dry it without any chemical just paper towel, then refill with fresh DOT 4. (Careful of any spilled or dripped DOT 4 as it will damage paint if not cleaned up quickly with a towel damped with water. Careful not to dislodge and lose the little metal "tang" that rests over the small hole to deflect fluid.)
I started the procedure with evacuating the reservoir, I did clean it as it looked pretty bad in there. Wiped completely up with paper towels and refilled with fresh DOT4. That's where it came to a grinding halt :frown: I do have the service manual and reviewed the procedure, but as my helper was out for the day, I decided to try Fred's method using the Mityvac.

I'm also curious about using a speed-bleeder on the clutch...I think I read somewhere that it can be done, but can someone confirm this?
 

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I changed my clutch fluid two weeks ago at 22,000 miles. The Mightyvac pulled it right through without any lever action. I know this because I had my son working the bleeder valve while I was attending the vac pump and reservoir level. Our timing was a bit off and it sucked the reservoir dry :frown:. Well at least I know all of the fluid in the line is new.
 

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I don't think I pulled the lever while under vacuum. I did pull the lever with the bleeder open, no Mityvac, just a hose. No go. I can try it under vacuum easy enough.

I started the procedure with evacuating the reservoir, I did clean it as it looked pretty bad in there. Wiped completely up with paper towels and refilled with fresh DOT4. That's where it came to a grinding halt :frown: I do have the service manual and reviewed the procedure, but as my helper was out for the day, I decided to try Fred's method using the Mityvac.

I'm also curious about using a speed-bleeder on the clutch...I think I read somewhere that it can be done, but can someone confirm this?
I was just thinking that if you completely emptied the reservoir, you probably have a nice big air bubble in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
UPDATE: Solved!

I resumed working on this again and I got it working, not sure what happened. I put the reservoir back together and was getting ready to remove the bleeder for cleaning. I opened it up, then thought to try one more time on the clutch lever. It started to move with normal resistance, then a little 'POP' followed by a DOT 4 shower and the bleeder is now bleeding. :clap2:

Unfortunately, I was not prepared for that and had to release the lever, get back under the bike and close the bleeder, so some air got sucked back in. I then hooked up the Mityvac, pulled 15" of vacuum and cracked the bleeder. FYI, as Coldwing stated, it did pull fluid out of the reservoir without manipulating the clutch lever. It also expelled said air bubble from earlier.

The initial fluid that came out looked like urine from a dehydrated person who overdosed on vitamins :eek:4: I seriously doubt it has been changed before!

Thanks for all the tips and guidance everyone!!!

One last question on this...what is the result of having air in the clutch line? i.e. how does it manifest itself? Just curious...
 

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Put a speed bleeder in and save yourself the aggravation, get the bag , work the clutch, while keeping the resivour full, tighten er back up, job done!!
 

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One last question on this...what is the result of having air in the clutch line? i.e. how does it manifest itself? Just curious...
If you think there may be some air remaining in the system, pull the
clutch lever in about half way and fasten it in this position......Let it
sit over night and it will "burp" itself and you are good to go.
 
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