[philippe721]

While replacing the belly pan on a 2005 GW 1800 I sheared off a crew.

The rear part of the belly pan has 2 slots on each side. Those slots line up with the 2 screws that hold the exhaust cover and they are held in place by nut caps.

While tightening one of the nut caps I forced it too much and it broke off with the piece of the screw in it.

I found the nut cap (#42) on the diagram but have a hard time figuring out which is the screw part.

I understand using a torque wrench would have prevented the problem but it's neither here nor there now.

Can anyone point me to the part that connects to the nut cap?

Thanks a bunch

 

[Red]

The stud is part of your header.

I’ve drilled them out in the past. Threaded the hole then installed a stud of the correct size. You’re not the first!

 

[philippe721]

The stud is part of your header.

Darn.....I was afraid of that.

Another great design by Honda!

Thanks

 

[Red]

Remove your front lower cowl and then the header cover. You’ll then be able to see the stay and broken stud/bolt.

 

[Ron Fuller]

This thread addressed this very problem a little over 10 years ago. Unfortunately the pictures no longer display (for me at least). I thought it was a pretty clever fix at the time. Maybe someone else can fill in the blanks.
https://gl1800riders.com/forums/17-how-step-step/105024-how-fix-broken-header-stud.html
Ron

 

[GoldWingrGreg]

I've actually bought special hardware just for when that happens. If I recall, depending on which one of the four brakes will require a different repair. The right rear might have the tightest space. The new studs I have, have an allen hole to assist screwing them in. Some can be repaired using the shortest TimeSert.

 

[Destindoc]

Darn.....I was afraid of that.

Another great design by Honda!

Thanks

Nothing wrong with the design... it's an 8 mm nut on a small post, it simply holds a shield in place. It only needs to be snug, no torque wrench required. If you broke it twisting it off that's just applying way too much force for such a small nut.

Some folks want to torque every bolt on the bike, oil drain bolt, even the oil filter... this is way overkill. Torquing bolts on mission critical parts is good for such things as the wheels, brakes, likely most parts of the engine, drive train etc. Likely nothing else really needs to be "torqued" down. We debate in the forum torquing the spark plugs, but it is really unnecessary... new plug, seat the plug, half turn or so until it's "snug" and that's it.

I realize Honda likely provides torque values in the service manual for all these parts, but it's because they have to. They can't really define "snug" in the manual.

But, sounds like you have a solution. You might could just drill out a hole and insert a self taping screw as an alternative.

 

[INTHEWIND]

Nothing wrong with the design... it's an 8 mm nut on a small post, it simply holds a shield in place. It only needs to be snug, no torque wrench required. If you broke it twisting it off that's just applying way too much force for such a small nut..

Plus its a cap nut. It will only thread on so far.
After the stud hits the inside top of the cap nut, its all over.:smile2:

 

[philippe721]

Thanks for all the replies.
It is pretty snug with just one screw and the back tab. That might have to do for now until I can find a solution since I don't have the skills to tap, re-thread....etc.

 

[GoldWingrGreg]

On some, the issue is corrosion (rust) that weakens the stud. On others, at some point the nut was threaded on incorrectly and they only come off with lots of effort. And of coarse, then there are some that break from being over tighten.