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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got my final drive shipped to me from Henry. Have researched several different units and still can't decide which healer to get. I am leaning towards the 12 o'clock labs h1 model so those of you that used this unit tell me about it. If you used another unit tell me about it. Never have had speedo issues with previous wings help a fellow out. Ease of calibration is what I'm looking for, not having to drive bike and calibrate at the same time.Bike is 2016 comfort, navi,premium auto with xm.

Thanks
Billy
 

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I used the 12 oclock one. Easily installed and calibrated before driving. Now I do have a garment gps to test it with. There’s easy to understand instructions on their website.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
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Thanks kwthon. I assume the modified gearset results in lower engine rpm? That would make my suggestion about a 70 series tire incorrect.

Thanks again,


Rayjoe
 

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Thanks kwthon. I assume the modified gearset results in lower engine rpm? That would make my suggestion about a 70 series tire incorrect.

Thanks again,


Rayjoe
Try typing the first three words of the title of this post (without the apostrophe and without spaces) into a Google search and you (and others that may be interested) should have all of your answers.
 

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I used the Healtech.
Pricey, but top notch quality.
It also has an electronic bonus.
When you press a special button, even with the engine turned off but accessory on, the speedo needle jumps to the highest speed reading you've reached since last resetting with that same button.
Bystanders are amazed when they see that feature.
 

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I used Yellow Box Official home page of the Yellow Box Speedo Recalibrator on my pre-2010's, but took it off when Honda corrected the speedometer with 2009+ bikes. But, when I got my 2005 Suzuki M50; its speedo was off by even more than what 2001-2008 Goldwings are. I just had to get Suzuki plugs and stuffed it into the headlight casing to correct its speed. It is fairly easy to set, just look up in the chart, or use any decimal to binary conversion calculator to set the switches. The first switch is + or -, the last switch is 0.0% or 0.5%, all of the switches in between are straight decimal to binary conversion to get the % before the decimal. So, a 5.5% adjustment will be 1011 (1 is on) since 5 is "101" in binary and the ".5" needs the extra "1". One of the other choices, if you loose the chart, there is no way to correctly set as there just is no logic to the settings. I had to set it for 1111 on the Suzuki since it was 7.5% off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks all for the input. I liked the 12 o'clock labs unit but wanted 2nd opinions to confirm.. Will get one ordered and wait for warmer weather this Spring to do the exchange.

Billy
 
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I really don't see the problem, I ride an 04 and I know the speedo is 5 miles an hour off, so even with my limited math skills I can figure my speed. JMHO
 

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I really don't see the problem, I ride an 04 and I know the speedo is 5 miles an hour off, so even with my limited math skills I can figure my speed. JMHO
The replacement final drive is a different ratio than OEM. Since the GL1800 speedometer runs off the engine, the speedometer will show a significant deviation from actual.
 

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I used the Dakota Digital one
Super easy to adjust , and ask them for the longer wires - then it easily reaches the front pocket ;)


The Henrys Final Drive reduces the gearing from 2.75 to 2.28 - about 13% in MPH on the OverDrive

I have not seen advantages in MPG that some report - But the added advantage of being able to use 1st gear all the ay through the intersection is kinda fun and running 55 in 4th id unique too - the lower gearing makes all the gears more useable - with more time in each gear - Running ear 70 MPH at 2600 RPMs ;)

4000 RPM is near 109 -- I have heard ... :)
 

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I asked this on another board. Has anyone talked to Guhl or another ECM reprogrammer to see if there is something they would/could do different based on different final drive ratio? While the "healer" changes the displayed speed, the ECM still thinks it's going at the original speed. If Guhl knows the new rear end ratio, could they reset the ECM and eliminate the need for the healer? And would they change their "curves" to align with the speed changes?

Not trying to turn this into a Henry's thread as that already exists. One engineering point to share. I believe that significant, measurable Miles per Gallon changes are not guaranteed. The amount of energy (fuel) needed to overcome wind resistance, rolling friction and gravity is unchanged. The efficiency of the conversion of fuel to energy will vary at different engine RPMs resulting in a need for more or less fuel for a given load (speed). Some engines are more efficient at higher RPMs while others are at lower RPMs. The Engine Control Module, its curves and calculations, its adjustments to the fuel injectors and ignition timing are specifically intended to maximize efficiency throughout the RPM range. I say this just to point out this is not a magic bullet. Don’t have unrealistic expectations. In the real world (not on a dyno), just because your engine is turning slower does not mean that you aren’t opening the throttle more to compensate. This is why I think an ECM reprogram could take the Henry to a whole new level.

Needless to say I am still watching and learning from real life reports of you few guinea pigs. Much more reliable than opinions of a flying squirrel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Over the week-end with temps in the 60's decided it was time to get the Henry Final Drive and the SpeedoHealer H-1 installed.
The install went well other then having trouble with access to the upper nut on the right side. I have the Rivco hitch and the attachment bar to the rear receiver plate hindered getting box wrench on the nut. Finally found odd brand box that would allow slight movement, enough to get it loose and off. Rubber mallet to the drive case and got it off enough to stop the drive shaft from coming out with the drive to keep it on the engine output splines by prying the drive shaft back into the housing. Greased the splines on shaft and drive with Moly 60 grease donated from the local Honda Dealer,Dixie cup size,and installed drive and re-assembled bike.
Removed plastic center section and right side fairing, installed healer to VSS 3 wire connector in GRAY coax cable, programed it to -13.2%, and put everything back together.
Test road for speedometer test and right on. On Highway 70m.p.h. was 2550 R.P.M.
Billy is one HAPPY CAMPER.
 

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Over the week-end with temps in the 60's decided it was time to get the Henry Final Drive and the SpeedoHealer H-1 installed.
The install went well other then having trouble with access to the upper nut on the right side. I have the Rivco hitch and the attachment bar to the rear receiver plate hindered getting box wrench on the nut. Finally found odd brand box that would allow slight movement, enough to get it loose and off. Rubber mallet to the drive case and got it off enough to stop the drive shaft from coming out with the drive to keep it on the engine output splines by prying the drive shaft back into the housing. Greased the splines on shaft and drive with Moly 60 grease donated from the local Honda Dealer,Dixie cup size,and installed drive and re-assembled bike.
Removed plastic center section and right side fairing, installed healer to VSS 3 wire connector in GRAY coax cable, programed it to -13.2%, and put everything back together.
Test road for speedometer test and right on. On Highway 70m.p.h. was 2550 R.P.M.
Billy is one HAPPY CAMPER.
Congratulations! Be careful starting off on any kind of uphill start. You'll find you'll need a bit more throttle than before. Other than that and watching your speed (you'll find yourself at 60 in 4th pretty easy) you've got nothing but miles and smiles to deal with.
 

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I used the Healtech.
Pricey, but top notch quality.
It also has an electronic bonus.
When you press a special button, even with the engine turned off but accessory on, the speedo needle jumps to the highest speed reading you've reached ....
Oh-oh, I wonder whether Mr Policeman knows that... Hopefully not! ;)
 

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I am interested in doing this. Will you be posting updates on how the ride is? Curious to know about the torque, too. Are you having to kick it down to 4th when the torque is needed at the higher speeds?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I am interested in doing this. Will you be posting updates on how the ride is? Curious to know about the torque, too. Are you having to kick it down to 4th when the torque is needed at the higher speeds?
Will be posting nightly about sights seen,places I've stopped and gas stops showing mileage between gas stops and how much fuel was added. Will advise if high speed on the highway or two lane speeds. This should give everyone fair and honest answer on mileage with the Henry final drive with a variety of roads traveled and elevation.I tend to ride hard and fast and not on the lazy side so we shall see how it shakes out!
Stay tuned and be informed.

Billy
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Will be posting nightly about sights seen,places I've stopped and gas stops showing mileage between gas stops and how much fuel was added. Will advise if high speed on the highway or two lane speeds. This should give everyone fair and honest answer on mileage with the Henry final drive with a variety of roads traveled and elevation.I tend to ride hard and fast and not on the lazy side so we shall see how it shakes out!
Stay tuned and be informed.

Billy
Will be departing Hillside, Il in the morning headed out West and North and will be reporting on Henry's Final Drive performance. Will be headed to St. Louis on I-55 visit for a few days with older Sis then on to St. Joe K.C. Dodge City, Lawrence, Abilene,and Roswell N.M. 4 corners, Monument Valley, Salt Lake City, Boise, West Yellowstone, Cody, Crazy Horse, and wiggle on home. Some Interstate and state highways some back roads. Will report MPG and drive-ability under varying conditions and elevations. Should be interesting as so far I am satisfied with the new final drive!
 
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