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Don, as I stated several times, it is less touchy in first gear and yes the left turn getting your foot scraped is gone. If you are passing slower traffic I do feel you should downshift to complete your pass in a safer time frame. Down hill engine braking is not as good but in the twisties it seem to run smoother. Other then that and noticed increase in range when long term cruising,what other performance benefits are you interested in finding out about
Your observations are greatly appreciated. I have Henry’s final drive but I have only had the opportunity to use it locally so far. I have just been comparing your observations with my own. Your trip has given me something to look forward to. So far our opinions appear to be primarily the same. -Don
 

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Glockjock after I installed the speed healer I tested it against my garmin's and with a police radar unit that a police friend was set up on a local. Speedometer on bike is dead on.
Hey what setting did you use on the speddo healer? My final drive is on the way! 6 months wait.
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
Put your name on the waiting list and he will update you as to availability. He builds in lots as needed and it takes time to get gear sets made.
 

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Great thread, thanks, especially Bndiii. I ordered a healtech speedohealer. I have a garmin 595 on my bike, a F6b. Does the healtech get programmed by using a percentage? Like do you set it to correct by 13%? Also how was the final drive R&R? Any tips?
 

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How often does Henry? Build these final drives?
Website says sold out
He builds in lots of maybe 10. He has had a hard time of late getting OEM Honda bearings and seals so he has production on hold for future orders. He has be back-logged months on old orders. Mine was ordered in December and he thinks this month is likely.
Not sure when new orders will be accepted. You could e-mail him and possibly put an order in but you’ll have to be patient.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Great thread, thanks, especially Bndiii. I ordered a healtech speedohealer. I have a garmin 595 on my bike, a F6b. Does the healtech get programmed by using a percentage? Like do you set it to correct by 13%? Also how was the final drive R&R? Any tips?
As for the r&r, loosen the r.h. side muffler clamp several turns, remove bolt under saddle bag at rear of muffler and wiggle muffler to loosen clamp area and pull off muffler. My bike has a trailer hitch on it and the frame mount strut was slightly in the way of the nut. Have several differ box wrenches from differ manufacturers in metric and fractional size to get the best clearance to remove the nut.Drive shaft should stay in the housing but will need to be pulled rearward and supported up when you begin installing Fred's drive. I used a long screwdriver to pry it up.Use an impact driver for r&r of rotor. Lightly grease splines and use a large wooden 4x6x12 block to drive the unit on,tight fit, and also use the block to drive on the muffler. Fill with gear lube in turkey baster with short hose before installing muffler. Happy Trails to you.
 

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As for the r&r, loosen the r.h. side muffler clamp several turns, remove bolt under saddle bag at rear of muffler and wiggle muffler to loosen clamp area and pull off muffler. My bike has a trailer hitch on it and the frame mount strut was slightly in the way of the nut. Have several differ box wrenches from differ manufacturers in metric and fractional size to get the best clearance to remove the nut.Drive shaft should stay in the housing but will need to be pulled rearward and supported up when you begin installing Fred's drive. I used a long screwdriver to pry it up.Use an impact driver for r&r of rotor. Lightly grease splines and use a large wooden 4x6x12 block to drive the unit on,tight fit, and also use the block to drive on the muffler. Fill with gear lube in turkey baster with short hose before installing muffler. Happy Trails to you.
Thanks thats great. Didn’t consider the rotor R&R.
 

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Be careful not to bend the Daylights out of the retainer tabs on the Chrome piece in front of the muffler you must line it up perfectly and push on straight and not turn it back and forth
 

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Well, I chickened out on the install of the final drive meaning I will let the dealer do it. I can handle the Healtec speedo healer and the gear indicator I got also. Dang its hard to get a drive in service, they penciled me in for Aug 10. I noticed my year old dunlap e4 on rear is cupped right at edge of contact patch. She sings pretty loud in the corners. Its weird as I have the mega monty traxxion setup. I want the dealer to look at it, I may change it back to a bridgestone. The front just got changed at 13K and I went bridgestone up there. At 17K now, the original rear got a nail. All they had in stock was a E4.
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
Well, I chickened out on the install of the final drive meaning I will let the dealer do it. I can handle the Healtec speedo healer and the gear indicator I got also. Dang its hard to get a drive in service, they penciled me in for Aug 10. I noticed my year old dunlap e4 on rear is cupped right at edge of contact patch. She sings pretty loud in the corners. Its weird as I have the mega monty traxxion setup. I want the dealer to look at it, I may change it back to a bridgestone. The front just got changed at 13K and I went bridgestone up there. At 17K now, the original rear got a nail. All they had in stock was a E4.
Hey, it's all good. You have the sense not to try and do something you didn't feel comfortable doing, and that's a win in itself.Not everyone can turn a wrench. I draw the line with computers and smart phones, just can't seem to get the hang of them as I am old school 72yrs young.
Let us know when you get it installed and have put some smiles on it.
 

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Just installed my Henry's Drive and it's working well. No noise or complaints of any kind. Gearing seems to be much more like the V-twin cruisers I've owned in the past. One thing I noted right off the bat was how much smoother down shifting is. It's much easier to "re-gear" the bike as I'm coming to a stop. There's no more "clunking" as I downshift (at least much reduced). Install was MUCH easier that the starter replacement I just did and with the 12 o'clock "speed healer" and +13.2% calibration the speedometer seems dead on with the GPS. Not sure about the odometer yet but with a rough guess with mile markers it seems pretty close. That part will take a longer ride to assess. As others have said, the bike still has lots of power and IMHO just seems a lot "happier" in both highway and around town conditions. Having said all that, I still can't figure out why it was geared so low in the first place. It's supposed to be a highway bike...right? Oh well, I'm just glad there are "fixes" for this. It's not cheap, but IMHO worth every penny.
 

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I was out last week for a little ride (3000 miles) with my Henrys Modified Final Drive --
Here are my observations -
Lower gearing makes 1st gear so much more 'useable' -
All gears are lower by enough to notice
LESS engine braking (noticeable when running twisty roads)
Better MPG - uhhhh not much really at interstate speeds -
I got 37-38 MPG at 75-80 MPH several times -
However I did see 46 MPG on one tank of back highway cruising (easy sweepers)
And many tanks in the 42-45 MPG range running twistys and sweepers
Much of the the twisty riding was in 2nd and 3rd gear - I was always in the right gear when making a switchback ;)
Net result opinion --

I am a VERY pleased customer -
The modified drive does everything I hoped it would do -
I did not expect MPG improvements (but a 1 -3 mpg improvement is appreciated)
Smoother - Easier - Better -

I do get a very consistent speed related whine that was not noted before around 40-44 mph.
I just go faster or slower to avoid it ...
 
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Just installed my Henry's Drive and it's working well. No noise or complaints of any kind. Gearing seems to be much more like the V-twin cruisers I've owned in the past. One thing I noted right off the bat was how much smoother down shifting is. It's much easier to "re-gear" the bike as I'm coming to a stop. There's no more "clunking" as I downshift (at least much reduced). Install was MUCH easier that the starter replacement I just did and with the 12 o'clock "speed healer" and +13.2% calibration the speedometer seems dead on with the GPS. Not sure about the odometer yet but with a rough guess with mile markers it seems pretty close. That part will take a longer ride to assess. As others have said, the bike still has lots of power and IMHO just seems a lot "happier" in both highway and around town conditions. Having said all that, I still can't figure out why it was geared so low in the first place. It's supposed to be a highway bike...right? Oh well, I'm just glad there are "fixes" for this. It's not cheap, but IMHO worth every penny.
Maybe they figured people would lug the engine too much. How is 5th now, is it grouchy at 40 mph.?
 

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I can imagine perhaps using 5th at 40 prior to Henry's, but it would seem a pretty tall gear for 40 even with OEM gearing. But I'd never use 5th at 40mph after the new final drive. I ride pretty conservatively and don't really start reaching for 5th until about 55 (minimum) .... but to each their own..:)
 

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As a follow up, Henry advised me via email to change the gear oil at 200 miles instead of what the paper included with his drive unit advised at 500 miles. I plan on a 200 mile trip tomorrow so I changed it out at 100 miles before I went on my trip. As you can see, the fluid is pretty brackish below the 4 oz mark on the container in the pic. The fluid above the 4 oz point is clear new fluid that was spillover from re-filling the unit. Makes a pretty clear contrast for comparison. This re-enforces Henry's suggestion to frequently change fluid out during break in. The lower magnetic plug was also saturated with shavings to the point it was probably not picking much up.
 

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As a follow up, Henry advised me via email to change the gear oil at 200 miles instead of what the paper included with his drive unit advised at 500 miles. I plan on a 200 mile trip tomorrow so I changed it out at 100 miles before I went on my trip. As you can see, the fluid is pretty brackish below the 4 oz mark on the container in the pic. The fluid above the 4 oz point is clear new fluid that was spillover from re-filling the unit. Makes a pretty clear contrast for comparison. This re-enforces Henry's suggestion to frequently change fluid out during break in. The lower magnetic plug was also saturated with shavings to the point it was probably not picking much up.
Note to self : Change Final Drive Gear Oil this weekend !
 
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