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Discussion Starter #1
OK gang,
Again, for those of you that were interested in the results, I've finished the restoration of the little guy. About 30-40 hours of sanding, prep, glass work, feathering, priming, more priming, painting, cutting, buffing, rewiring, new L.E.D. lights all the way around, and finally some gas shocks for holding the lid up and carpet lined. Wow, that was a lot of work but, I think it's pretty nice now. I'll try and pose a few pics of the improved model. OK gang, on edit, I figured out how to add the pics as thumbnails. I'm a genious, yeah sure. I'll post another thread for you to see the finished product.

Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Here's more pics of the finished trailer.
 

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Good Job, you sure made that old one look very good !!:thumbup:


JMHO :cool:



 

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Fireup, looks like you do nice work. Congratulations, you sure brought that one around to looking like new.
 

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Fire Up
Thanks for the Photo's. Almost sent you a PM last night to see how you were coming on the trailer...It Looks GOOD;) If You could post or PM me pictures of the Lid Shock install I would appreciate it.. Now you can load it up and enjoy. It will pull very easy as you probably all ready know. Thanks in advance for the Info on the Lid Shock installation....David
HondaMortch:congrats:
 

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Gents,
Thank you all for the nice comments. Now that it's all (or almost all) done, it wasn't so bad. While I was doing it, it seemed like it was taking years. I don't know how those boys and girls do a "frame-off" resto on older cars. I almost killed the dog and the first born, and I don't even have a dog. It got frustrating at times. The body and lid were painted in the absolute worst conditions. 50+ mph winds, 85 degrees, Santa Ana conditions with more debris blowing around than is caused by a yard blower. I made a makeshift little paint booth with visqueen on three sides. I should have done the fourth side too. But, I couldn't figure out how to get into and out of it if I did that. Anyway, I got it done and both the War Department and I are pleased.

Hondamortch, the gas shocks are not actually "ON" at this time, however, they will be in a day or two. All I'm going to do is glass in blocks (very small ones) of wood or aluminum to screw the upper and lower shock mounts to. That way no screws protrude through the outside of the trailer. It shouldn't be that hard. But, then again, everything I do is hard. As soon as they're installed and working, I'll rush the pics to you, is that OK? I'm wiring the bike tomorrow and, if that goes well, I'll jump back on the trailer and do the shocks and the carpet. And then, it will be ALL DONE!!!!!! Thanks again guys.
Scott.
 

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Hey Fire Up, I also have a Shoreline. When you get the gas shocks on the lid, would you please post pictures and connect points of how you installed them? By the way, where did you get those gas shocks (if you don't mind my asking). I'd like to do the same for mine. I've had my little "Shoreline" for about 10 years now and have use it several times. My Shadow ACE Tourer pulled it at first and now my new Goldwing Trike pulls it and never knows it's back there. They seem to be good, sturdy, little trailers.

Ron Mcgowan
Pearland, Texas
 

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:congrats: Fireup, I had a knock-off of the Shoreline which is a Skyline that I pulled for a number of years. Never had a problem with it and it pulled like a dream. You will enjoy it.:yes1:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Guys,
Thanks again for all the nice comments. I'm not real fond of the little 8" wheels but, I guess they'll have to do for the time being. Many of you have stated that you towed your little 8" wheels all over the US without problems. So, if you guys did it, I can do it.

Ron,
Quartzsite AZ has this RV swap meet every year at about Jan 21-27th plus or minus and they sell everything there, and I mean EVERYTHING! It ranges from regular old swap meet junk to tens of thousands of new Jap, cheap tools etc. Well, there was a guy was selling a bunch of JUNK and he had a dozen of these little shocks. I compressed a few of them and they all seemed to be about the same in resistance and, they weren't too strong like some of the ones I tested here and there so, I picked up two of them for the whopping high price of......$3.00 each. I figured it they didn't work, spending that little wasn't going to break me.

I don't know if you're able to get to a local swap meet but, chances are you'll find some, even some new ones maybe. Make sure they're not too strong. I tried to compress some and even my elephant weight couldn't do it. I don't know what the "Poundage" is on mine but, they're pretty easy to compress but, strong enough that two of them should hold up that little lid. Good luck. And I'll send pics when the job is complete.
Scott
 

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Fire Up,
Thanks I will be waiting for the Pictures.
I once asked a Canopy installer if he could or would do the Shock install, but didn't want to do it because he said you would have to crawl inside the trailer and compress the shocks and line them up while the lid was closed. He also mentioned the embedment of blocks to get the angle correct of the shocks so they retracted without binding when the lid closed. I don't have a problem with drilling holes on the sides, but blocks on the underside of the lid sound reasonable. Betcha the Factory has some sort of jig set up. I looked at other trailers but just haven't jump into it any further.. Betcha GEORGE PATRICK could figure this out. Maybe he will read this post and chime in.:popcorn::shrug:
Thanks HondaMortch (David)
 

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Fiberglass failure

I refinished a 10 year old cyclemate with a two tone scheme to match my 1500. We let it set outside over the winter and the fiberglass started to fail under the paint. Blisters developed in the creases on the lid and it was downhill from there.

I mention this because I think that if I had stored in a heated garage it would probably have survived a little longer.

Hope this doesn't happen to you.

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #16
David,
I installed (glassed in) the lower mounting blocks last night and am letting them take a good setting before I install the uppers in the same manner. I took a block of wood and machined it down to conform to the corner of the inside of the tub. Once it was a perfect fit, I hot glued it to the corner and then did the other side just like it. After that, I mixed a batch of resin and laid in the fiberglass all the way around the seams and kept layering the glass and resin 'till it was all gone. The canopy installer was exactly right. Only, I had my wife get inside and do the measuring and calculation checking while the lid was closed. SHE DIDN'T LIKE IT!!!! We're going camping this weekend with a bunch of jeepin' couples out near our local sand dunes so, I won't be able to do the install of the upper mounts 'till Monday. I should have a functioning lid by Tuesday about noon. I'll send detailed pics when it's completed. From then on, it's CARPET TIME!! :excited:

To the others, thanks for the comments, it was time consuming but it was worth it. As for the weather, I hope to sew up a nice "Sunbrella" material cover for it with a draw string on the bottom to keep it tight when not in use. It will keep the sun off of it and the rest of the elements.
 

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To all concerned:
Those who have followed my restoration of the little Shoreline trailer, it's almost complete. Many of you wanted to see how I would install gas charged shocks for holding the lid open, well, here it is and the way I did it. I've got about 90% of the carpet installed too. I almost lost my two remaining brain cells sniffing the contact cement in an enclosed garage 'cause it was cold out side when doing some of the carpet work. So, I figured I'd blow the garage right off the house if a spark should appear, based on the fumes, so I braved the cold and opened the door. If there's any questions, let me know and I'll try and coach your install. By the way. I'm no engineering genius, I have two 30# shocks and it wasn't enough to hold the lid open, based on the mounting points and the finished open position.

My answer, without going out and repurchasing new shocks, was to re-fab the brackets and therefore reposition the finished door-open angle. It now is almost straight up and down when in the open position. No big deal. It works and I don't have to prop it up as before. Thanks


Scott
 

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.:yes1::congrats:
 
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