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Don't want to open a can of worms here but.... I am looking to change over to a full synthetic oil and need some advice. I read somewhere, maybe here, that the best way to change is to slowly do the switch over 2-3 oil changes. In other words, part synthetic and part dino one time then more synthetic and less dino the second change then all synyhetic the third change. I don't understand the logic of doing so. Secondly, I live in Michigan so in general my riding is not in extreme heat or cold. Any suggestions on brand and viscosity rating for my climate? As long as we're at it, any good filters that I can get at any auto parts store?
 

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WHY ! ?? IMOP WASTE OF MONEY !! WATER COOLED MOTOR AND REGULAR OIL RECOMMENDED AND NO ISSUES USING IT ! PUT THE EXTRA MONEY IN THE GAS TANK AND GO FOR A RIDE ! :serious::smile2:
 

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Its a tough question and depends on what brand of gas you use, whether it has ethanol in it, what octane is used ?
 

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... that the best way to change is to slowly do the switch over 2-3 oil changes. In other words, part synthetic and part dino one time then more synthetic and less dino the second change then all synyhetic the third change. I don't understand the logic of doing so. Secondly, I live in Michigan so in general my riding is not in extreme heat or cold. Any suggestions on brand and viscosity rating for my climate? As long as we're at it, any good filters that I can get at any auto parts store?
I don't understand the logic of switching over slowly either. If you are gonna switch, don't be afraid to change back and forth. For example, I use Honda's GN4 10w-30 oil in my Wing. However, at times I go on a tour of 12k+ and only want to do 1 oil change while in route. I'll use Honda's full synthetic and push that oil 8,000 miles. Eventually, when I get back home, I'll go back to the GN4.

You should be aware that for 5th gens, some members report problems with them. I believe others have reported 5 symptoms associated with synthetic oils, and I've personally dealt with all 5 of those and discovered a 6th. However, as always, I cannot necessarily remember them all when I want to.
1. starter spins but not the engine
2. burnt clutch plates, synthetics are known to be in the friction zone longer
3.
4.
5.
6.

The best and most popular oil for a 5th gen Wing is Honda's GN4. Honda currently suggests running 10w-40 for years 2001-06, and if you have a 2007-17 10w-30.

The 10w-30 is what Honda recommends in the 6th gens also. Over the years it seems Honda has convinced themselves that GN4 is best too.

As I remember the other 4 symptoms, I'll add them to the list above.
 

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I don’t buy the gradual change, probably thinking to break the engine in a little before using synthetic. My Jaguar came with super thin synthetic oil.
 

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don't want to open a can of worms here but.... I am looking to change over to a full synthetic oil and need some advice. I read somewhere, maybe here, that the best way to change is to slowly do the switch over 2-3 oil changes. In other words, part synthetic and part dino one time then more synthetic and less dino the second change then all synyhetic the third change. I don't understand the logic of doing so. Secondly, i live in michigan so in general my riding is not in extreme heat or cold. Any suggestions on brand and viscosity rating for my climate? As long as we're at it, any good filters that i can get at any auto parts store?
i use amsoil and change every 6k. Shifts better. Honda oil filter. I DID A FULL SWITCH AT 4K. I WOULD GO BY OIL VISCOSITY IN OWNERS MANUAL. i THINK IT 10/30 IN A COLDER CLIMATE.
 

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Like others have stated, if you want to switch to synthetic, just switch and go with it. Any synthetic oil formulated for the bike and meets spec is fine. Some will argue the finer points of synthetic and synthetic blends but thats a personal choice. I use Motul 4T 5100 10W30 and the OEM filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you for the suggestions. After much reading I discovered that synthetic oils are dino based. The difference seems to be that synthetics and synthetic blends are simply a matter of refinement plus additives. The full synthetics are the most refined oils, with continuity in molecular size. Dang, i thought they were man made, not so. Still going to give them a try, Thanks again guys
 

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Now you just have to choose an oil. Rotella T6, Mobil1, Amsoil, the choices are endless, just don't low ball the filter. All the quality oil in the world means nothing if the filter is substandard. Obviously Honda OE is the first choice, Mobil1 and Amsoil seem to be top tier as well. I personally use Wix, never had a bad one, never had one fail. Good luck and ride safe.
 

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Thank you for the suggestions. After much reading I discovered that synthetic oils are dino based. The difference seems to be that synthetics and synthetic blends are simply a matter of refinement plus additives. The full synthetics are the most refined oils, with continuity in molecular size. Dang, i thought they were man made, not so. Still going to give them a try, Thanks again guys
I don't think that is accurate, don't have time to find the sources now. I've been wrong before so maybe I'll learn something.

Well, I took the time and learned something new today, always a good thing.

Synthetic oil is a lubricant consisting of chemical compounds that are artificially made. Synthetic lubricants can be manufactured using chemically modified petroleum components rather than whole crude oil, but can also be synthesized from other raw materials. The base material, however, is still overwhelmingly crude oil that is distilled and then modified physically and chemically. The actual synthesis process and composition of additives is generally a commercial trade secret and will vary among producers[1].
 

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I've switch back and forth w/o any problems!

BUT I will say that this early season My starter would just spin and not start (exactly the same system that Goldwinger Gregg mentioned...till I went with (as Gregg suggested) Honda oil ...No more problem since I changed.......coincidence? I honestly don't believe so/Thank you Gregg life is good since I listened to you.....

I'm off to the Americade Lake george Rally early tomorrow morning......Bikes all packed!

Ronnie
 
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There are different classes of Synthetic oils, group 3 group 4 and group 5. Read up on the difference if yea the to be even more confused lol.. I haven’t use regular oil in 25 years in any of my vehicles.
 

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BUT I will say that this early season My starter would just spin and not start (exactly the same system that Goldwinger Gregg mentioned...till I went with (as Gregg suggested) Honda oil ...No more problem since I changed.......coincidence? I honestly don't believe so/Thank you Gregg life is good since I listened to you.....
You are not alone. I actually learned about the "starter spins" but not engine symptom on the forum here. Usually it happens in colder climates and after the Wing has sat through the winter.

I remembered #3
1. starter spins but not the engine
2. burnt clutch plates, synthetics are known to be in the friction zone longer
3. rod(s) knock when starting either on a center or side stand. This symptom happens for about 1-2 seconds and then the knocking is gone. Apparently after sitting, synthetics will drip clean and not leave behind a layer of oil. Some trike manufactures actually say not to use synthetic oil in their rear ends. Apparently in some of the northern states they'll find rust beginning to develop on the ring and pinions gears. The same thing is believed to be the cause in #1 ... the sprague gear drips dry of all of its oil.
4.
5.
6.
 

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Modern Engines are Deigned with Tight Tolerances

You CAN use Dino oil, certainly that is OK by Honda for warranty purposes. Also you CAN use Dino oil because its cheaper.... But it is never BETTER than full synthetic when it comes to cold engine operation. In the end, as long as you change the oil and filter at least as often as the maintenance schedule calls for, you should be fine.

I like full synthetic in all of my rides 4 or 2 wheeled
 

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I'm "on the fence" on this issue. Therefore, I use two quarts of Valvoline MC specific synthetic 10w-40 plus two quarts of Valvoline MC specific non-synthetic 10w-40. A 50/50 blend. The best of both worlds!
 
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Discussion Starter #18
I decided that "full synthetic in 10w-30 is the oil I will be trying on this change. 5 quart jug of Pennzoil at walmart for about 25 bucks. I found the K & N filter at Autozone right down the street. That was a bonus. We will see how this performs, if I don't like it I can always try something different in 5000 miles. Took a short ride last night and the shifting felt smooth and precise.
 

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You do know there is a difference between automotive 10w-30 oil and motorcycle specific 10w-30 oil. The automotive oil may not be compatible with a motorcycle wet clutch. Choose wisely!
 

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You do know there is a difference between automotive 10w-30 oil and motorcycle specific 10w-30 oil. The automotive oil may not be compatible with a motorcycle wet clutch. Choose wisely!
Correct. Pennzoil 10W-30 is not approved for wet clutches. Your oil should be JASO MA approved I believe. At least it should be NON energy conserving. There are some 10W-40car oils that are non energy conserving, and are also not JASO approved that may be OK. But I would not use the 10W-30 car oil.
 
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