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I just changed my oil and filter on my trike - what a pain!

Removing the front cowl requires loosening the running boards to get access to the lower screws.

Tulsa front pan came off easily - not as easy back on.

I used two short pans for the oil to drain into - oil on floor! doh!!

I thought I had the right size oil filter wrench - nope.

Day Two - Trip to Honda dealer for proper wrench. (I have two strap wrenchs - think Sears infomercial purchase - strap wrenches didnt work - not enough room.)

I made the mistake of re-tightening the running boards before replacing the cowl.

I needed a short allen wrench - so I got out the Dremel tool and made one. (To fit between cowl and running boards.)

I am still have trouble getting that pesky cowl back on.

Any tips for replacing the cowl?
 

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Flash I just have to ask ;) Why did you have to take the front cowl loose or off :?:, I use a longer than OEM filter and have no problem getting the filter loose and off.... I use a rubber strap wrench, and or the metal one that fits the rear, of the filter. I don't have he pan on the bottom though. Getting the cowl on first before the running boards is the only way. :eek:4:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The manual says to remove the cowl.

The trike sits too low to the ground to use the strap wrench.

I have a lift but was worried I might damage something.
 

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you do have differnt size screw two of them have longer corners
 

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I just changed my oil and filter on my trike - what a pain!

Removing the front cowl requires loosening the running boards to get access to the lower screws.

Tulsa front pan came off easily - not as easy back on.

I used two short pans for the oil to drain into - oil on floor! doh!!

I thought I had the right size oil filter wrench - nope.

Day Two - Trip to Honda dealer for proper wrench. (I have two strap wrenchs - think Sears infomercial purchase - strap wrenches didnt work - not enough room.)

I made the mistake of re-tightening the running boards before replacing the cowl.

I needed a short allen wrench - so I got out the Dremel tool and made one. (To fit between cowl and running boards.)

I am still have trouble getting that pesky cowl back on.

Any tips for replacing the cowl?
I roll the back tires of my CSC forward on metal car ramp. That makes enough room under the trike for me to pass a thin flat aluminum spanner wrench over the end of the filter and makes it easy to use an 11mm box end on the drain bolt as well. It's easier than changing the oil in my car and truck. No Cowel removal.:eek:4:

:popcorn: :doorag:
 

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Hmmmm, I have a Tulsa pan. I undo the two zues fasteners, (no need take the pan off) put my Honda filter wrench on and remove the filter, having already drained the oil, install new filter, put the front part of the pan back on, put in 3 quarts of oil, run it a little, top off the oil level and away I go.....forget the manual. That is for a dealer to get another $35 out of you for more labor...it is not necessary.

It doesn't take my sweet wife more than 30 minutes to change the oil and filter on my trike. It does take her a little longer on the Kabota tractor as she has to grease the lift and bush hog. :lol:
 

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FlashG, you mentioned getting the old oil on your floor. I've copied and pasted a reply I wrote several months ago concerning this same issue. A friend put me on to a product last year that has solved my messy oil drain problems. I've never changed oil when I didn't spill some on momma's carpet. A company by the name of Cycle Gadgets markets the product, "Quick Changer". You simply back out the original Honda oil drain bolt and put it in your tool box. You replace it with the provided Quick Changer drain plug. This is the last time you'll ever use your wrench at the drain plug. You then thread on the provided drain hose, the Quick Changer valve opens wide, allowing the old hot oil to flow safely and neatly into the direction you choose. Once fully drained, you simply unthread the hose from the Quick Changer, thusly closing off the oil passageway. The Quick Changer valve's rubber O-ring seals tightly to prevent leakage. Thread back on the provided protective cap, refill with fresh oil, and you're done! This cap will protect and keep the Quick Changer clean. You'll never need to replace the cruch washer again, as the Quick Changer forever remains in the engine block. I sometimes had trouble even finding the room for my drain bolt wrench. No more. The protective cap screws off and on easily without the need of a tool. Now, if I could only learn a sure fire way to take off the filter and not drop any used oil on momma's hardwood floors. I realize that at $40, it's a little pricey, but have you checked the price of good carpet, lately?
http://www.cyclegadgets.com/Products/pr ... sp?Item=QC


Wayne
 

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The manual says to remove the cowl.

The trike sits too low to the ground to use the strap wrench.

I have a lift but was worried I might damage something.
Manual not always right.
Strap wrench's are sometimes more trouble than they're worth. IMO
Don't be afraid to use the lift, as long as you're careful you won't damage anything.
Using the thin metal filter wrench saves a lot of trouble also.
 
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Lifting the Cobra

Flash,

I use a Sears MC jack and floor jack and jack stands. I also have a Tulsa belly pan and use the flat wrench to take off the filter. As other have pointed out, you do not have to take off the lower cowl.

I center the floor jack (with a 2x10x10 on the jackpad) under the differential and raise it a few inches so I can get the MC jack under the ground effects. Then I alternate raising the 2 jacks a couple inches at a time till all the way up. Then I set jack stands under the "A" arms and, if desired, remove the floor jack.







You know, every time I post pictures I think, WOW! that sure is a gorgeous trike!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the pictures Don!

I have everything already but the floor jack.

What is the model of your floorjack?
 

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I cut 1 2"x10"X4' with a 45% then cut 1 2"x10"x2' screwed them together and added a stop to the end This will bring the trike up high enough to change the oil and is easy to drive up on. Plus only cost a few dollars.
 

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I get my ******* jacks out. A few 2x6 boards, put under all wheels, drive on, try not to run off boards, or you will have to start over. Take front part of pan off, change oil & filter. Run for little bit, check for leaks. Put front part of pan back on. Back off boards, go for a ride. JoeA
 

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Flash - get the thin oil filter wrench. It will fit between the filter and the cowl, and you do not have to mess with the cowl. I welded a short socket on the back end, and a blade on the side of the handle - the socket to take the drain plug out of the pan and the blade to take the dzus fasteners out of the belly pan.



However, I now have a MotorTrike with floorboards, and the belly pan will not fit because of the mounting brackets for the floorboards.

And Don has a way of lifting the rear end of his trike that does not work well with the MotorTrike, so I made a bracket that fits into the receiver and use the lift I already had, then slide a pair of jack stands under the bracket. The floor jack fits under the front of the motor, and after I lift it, set the front wheel on a block.




But rolling it on ramps or blocks would also work, its just that I like to be able to pull the wheels and not have anything in the way while I take a nap under the trike.

And all my lifts, jacks and stands are the finest Harbor Freight - Schucks stuff available, made in Taiwan, California

Lift was $40, floor jack came with the ramps and a creeper (that busted) for $30. Made of fine grade beer cans, but works.
 
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