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Discussion Starter #1
Parked my 03 about a year ago, and all was fine. Was not intending to park it for a year, but things happen...


Went to start it yesterday. Added a gallon (it was empty when parked), and crank crank crank ...no start. Tested the power plug to the pump - yep, the (2) pins see power just after the switch is turned. But no pump running.


Did some searches on here, and if there were any pics of the Accord pump replacement, they disappeared in the Photofucket debacle...


So. See below. The plastic housing pieces are indeed brittle - but I did it without breaking anything. Took about 2 hours.


With the clamshell removed:



Pump removed from clamshell:



Pump body:



Pump end 1:



Pump end 2:





Careful of this. You will destroy (well, I did) the old one getting it off. But a new one comes with the pump. This is the new one:





The plastic fits very snugly over the pump end - so tight, that you have to work to get it on far enough in order to get the one-time-use circlip on far enough. Honda was aware of the issue, and thoughtfully provided a metal band as reinforcement:
Hm. Seems I cannot upload via Smugmug after the pics above - see pics attached via "Drag and Drop".


Next pic is the re-assembled pump.


Next pic is why you should get a new o-ring (actually it has a square profile) prior to starting this process. Guess it has been on so long it has deformed - to a LARGER size than will now fit in the o-ring groove. I would love for someone to explain this...


AFAIK, there appears only one visible difference. See 2nd to last pic.


The pump was about $60 at O-Reillys - they even had it in stock...
 

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Great write-up, and with pictures even :thumbup:
.
 

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Thanks I tried to pull them pictures a while back of that thread
Glad you took the time put pictures back in it
 

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Thanks for your effort in posting this. I believe that the pump that is used is for a 2001Accord, if anyone is wondering. I'm not sure if the engine size is a factor. please correct me if I'm wrong.
 

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It only takes a few days for these plastic fuel tank structures to get brittle. All of the manufacturers (that I am aware of) have used these plastic structures for some time now (30+ Years). Bear in mind that plastic and gasoline are actually quite similar chemically and come from the same source. Duh! Anyhow, when these plastic components are immersed in gasoline, the gasoline leaches out the chemicals (called plasticizers, curiously enough) that make plastic flexible and pliable, among other things. As long as the material remains undisturbed, and better still if kept wet with gasoline, which tends to mimic some of the plasticizer properties, all it well. Remove it from the gas tank, even more if it is allowed to dry and it will be come extremely brittle. Even if you are successful in this sort of a repair (nothing gets broken) the structure will remain brittle and has a very high failure rate even after the "repair" is complete and many miles have passed. This is why the manufacturers themselves do not sell anything except the complete assembly. Which is definitely not low cost! Aftermarket manufacturers of the fuel pumps, sending units and the other pieces that make up these assemblies are under no such obligation. LOL Don't try this at home of course, but if the plastic is kept continuously immersed in gasoline, for the entire repair and replacement process, the odds of the initial as well as long term success can improve greatly. Now of course that would be operating under the assumption that the fumes don't damage your eyes, lungs, etc., or better still, catch fire in this sort of a scenario. YMMV
 

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I recognize that pump. The "Airtex E8229 Electric Fuel Pump" is a direct replacement. I replaced mine FEB-2016. Purchased from Amazon Prime at $76.41. I see the price now is $36,78. I would avoid that now - suspect it is a cheap China knockoff. Genuine Airtex may also be made in China, but to Airtex specs.

This is used in 2001 Accord and a whole bunch of other cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks all.
Yes, an 01. Guess I forgot to mention that; it is the only one I have seen discussed in other posts as well.
I asked the counter guy for a 01 Honda Accord fuel pump, and he did not even ask what engine I had.
I did ask him to take it out of the box, so I could compare with the (bad) one I had in a Ziploc. Note: the ethanol degradation makes the fuel and the pump really stinky...


Interesting about the air exposure leading to more brittleness. That said, in the 2 hours I was putzing with this I did not detect any appreciable difference in brittleness. Can't think of a way around it though; would be really unsafe to effect this swap while the pump is immersed in a 5 gallon bucket of gasoline... Unless you happen to be a commercial welder/diver with a drysuit who carries out repairs of 500,000 gallon (and up) gasoline tanks - from the inside. I used to know a guy who did that - it pays very, very well.


Just for grins, I priced this out through the Honda Auto parts supply chain:
$250, for JUST the pump assembly!


This compares to about $280 from Cheap Cycle Parts; with the pump and all the plastics....
Fascinating pricing structures...

For me, this Chinese $60 pump is a great deal. I just need this to function a few months so I can make sure this donor bike engine runs hiccup free. A pisser that the stock fuel pump just died while the bike was in storage. But once I ride it a couple months, then it's getting dismembered, with the engine going into an old-school Valkyrie frame.


Speaking of Chinese stuff, if you have not checked it out, take a look at Alibaba dot com. Almost anything on ebay AND Amazon is on there; almost dirt cheap. I have ordered a few things, and the price is 1/4 to 1/10th the price of US sourced hardware. I think of it kind of like Harbor Freight on steroids - lots of [email protected], but some good deals as well. As a guy on another forum indicated "I'm glad they are working for us".:grin2:
 

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Sure could of did away with all that plastic crap that pump is in
I had BMW LT1200 it was basically just that pump and couple of hoses
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Interestingly enough, that is entirely possible. But awfully hard with the stock GL1800 tank.
The gent that put a GL1800 engine in his Microvan (a great thread, but it's a couple years ago now) found and used this in his project.
I intend to use the same in my project.
 

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Hi all first let me start by saying that I recognize that there are more important things today than reporting on a problem and a motorcycle. I want to wish all the best to my brother and sister bikes friends on the forum stay safe .
Ok I’m posting this update on my idle hunt issue because I used this thread along with some help from Fred Harmon and Techdude2000 via PM.
So I had the idle hunt since I purchased the bike it was subtle got worse as time went on. After changing the plugs still had it. filter was changed last year so I was left with either electrical wires, contacts sensors. I noticed the that my symptom was related to heat in some form or fashion the bike was running good not over heating but would hunt after restart when warm. One day I decided to start the bike after 5 mins or so and listen for pump action and opened the gas cap I started the bike and the fumes were visible and when I placed my hand next to the tank it nearly burned the back of my hand. I reached out to Fred Harmon via PM and told him what I discovered, he found it strange for the fuel to be that hot. He said that the pump might be overheating but couldn’t understand that the pump still working. I also check the flow from the return line and it was under the specification manual says a minimum of 4.5 oz after turning the switch on and off five time at 2 second interval for no more than 10 seconds. So I took the $63 chance and replaced the fuel pump with the help of this thread found the same pump number at O’Reilly auto parts that was my fix no more hunt when warm or hot!!!! Very simple instructions just take your time.

Be safe all

Joe
 
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