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I'm pondering how much grief I will have in attempting to remove my rear wheel. I'm the 2nd caretaker of a 2012 with "premium" audio package. I've read that bikes without the "upgraded" audio can have the rear wheel removed while on the center stand. The amp makes the standard removal a PITA or so I'm to understand. I would prefer not to make the GL take a nap unless I have no other choice.
What I'm looking to find out is the minimum distance the rear wheel needs to be off the ground to do the wiggle thing getting the tire around the amp and off the bike.
Yes, he has an idea.... but it all depends on that clearance, Clarence. I don't need the vector, Victor. Surely I'm serious and don't call me Shirley.

TNX
Michael
Dear Shirley haha,
I have an '08 Airbag which of course has the premium audio/amp and therefore the same clearance issue. I don't have the exact answer of how much height your bike would to have to drop the rear wheel out, but it is a lot. You will need a bike stand that allows the rear wheel to hang off the back and be high enough for the removed wheel to clear the muffler. After reading in the service manual what it takes to remove the rear fender cover, fender, and amp, I have chosen to always use the "nap mode" you refer to. I loosen the lug nuts, lay down a moving blanket, gently lower her down, and remove the wheel. My task is more difficult because I run 70 series tire. Removal is made easier by deflating the tire and spraying a plastic trash bag with WD-40 and placing it between the tire and the places it rubs against. Removal of the left muffler also makes wheel removal and installation easier and is not difficult. A 60 series tire is much easier to manage. I'm not saying this method is better or more time-efficient than what you are considering, just explaining what is required and how to do it. I might try the fender removal next tire change just to test whether my beliefs are still valid. Let us know how it goes if you try it.
 

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If you plan to keep the motorcycle, might as well get a decent jack. Pitbull or J&S are good. I would never lay my motorcycle on it's side. I like my Pitbull jack.
Working on my dad's old GL1200 and removing rear fenders ect to remove the wheel was memory enough that I bought the jack right away and one purchase that I am glad I did.
Agree it would be great to have one of these jacks but unfortunately don't have enough storage space for it. Thus, have to give her a nap.
 

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laying down (nap) is easy IF you don't have the highway pegs that connect to the crash bars.. If yea lived clos'rrr to me I let you borrow my lift, to change that tire...........(and I'd even help you)
(Actually I'm a big snow skier, and I see your from Colorado, ....I'm jealous!)
Ronnie
Massachusetts
4/18/22
You're a generous soul Ronnie. I would love to have one of those jacks and just drop the wheel out. Can't have everything and wouldn't want to. Have been thinning the herd and getting down to a more manageable # of bikes and stuff and it is liberating. Less is more, for me anyway.
 

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I use a wheel chock on the front wheel that allows me to strap the front end down. Then a scissors jack under the center stand. Lifting the scissors jack will raise the rear of the bike far enough to remove the wheel.
View attachment 399587
Interesting. I've got a Condor wheel chock I install in my trailer when we take the GL on a trip along with the dirt bike(s). 99% of the time it sits in the garage. That would be super-stable. I have a low-profile floor jack that I use underneath my belly pan to raise the GL front wheel when removing it. What do you put between your scissor jack and your GL to make it stable and not tippy when you jack it up? Any pics would be great. Thx!
 

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The center stand is in the upright position and the jack is put under the pivot on the stand. I had a U shaped plate welded to the top of the jack. When the front wheel is tied down on the chock, it is very stable. I only tighten the tie downs enough to keep the bike stable. The front shock will compress slightly as you raise the rear end.
I loosed the lug nuts while the wheel in on the ground and then, remove the lug nuts and move the wheel to the side.
Lift the bike and the wheel stays on the ground. Putting the wheel back on is just the reverse process. position the wheel under the bike and lower the bike. Takes a little practice to get the wheel out from underneath.
One great thing about doing it this way is when you have to take the wheel in for a tire change. It sits upright on the jack. You don't have to drain the tank or worry about any other fluids running out.
View attachment 399597
View attachment 399600
Clever and well-done. Thank you.
 

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You can get an inexpensive wheel chock from Harbor Freight and some D rings mounted to the floor about 18 inches on either side and put them towards the front of the wheel.
I can actually push the bike side to side and it is very stable.
Just got home and had a look under my GL, based on your idea and pic. The center stand has two tubes that are vertical when in use and parallel to the bike's direction of travel when the stand is up. I can use a section of 2"x4" under those tubes, perpendicular to the length of the bike, as the base for my floor jack to make contact with. The floor jack's head is about 4" in diameter. With my Condor wheel chock's mechanism that basically locks it in place after it has been rolled in, and the expected stability of this 2"x4" and floor jack, I think it will work great. Thanks for your idea!
 

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The only problem I see there is that with the centerstand when in the up position. the one horizontal bar contacts a rubber bumper of the exhaust system. If you want to use the 2x4 on the jack saddle, just hollow out a U shape on the 2x4 and contact only the bar that pivots.
Another thing about the scissors jack is you have total control over raising and especially lowering the bike. Harder to lower it slowly with a hydraulic jack.
Those are all real good points. I did not take a close look at the centerstand as the bike was back in the corner but am glad you mentioned the bumper/muffler contact. I'll rout out that u-shape for the pivoting bar to fit in. I think with the front wheel being gripped very tightly by the Condor, I can control the hydraulic jack coming down slowly and in a controlled manner.
 

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Mine can stay on the jack in my shed for days or weeks in the upright position. Plus I can give it a good cleaning and do other maintenance. . The shed is only 8 feet wide and room to spare all the way around. The lay down method is great if there is no alternative. I have that option.
cihilb, based on your helpful ideas and pics, and some stuff I found poking around in another part of the house I forgot we had some stuff in, I've figured out how to make it work in my space, using the materials I already have.
1) Garage has a significant slope so will point my front end in the uphill direction.
2) Will use my Condor wheel chock for my trailer to hold the front wheel. It locks the whole bike down like a vice, so no concerns there.
3) Will place a 2"x10"x3' board I have under it to raise it higher. Will place another 2"x10"x3' board under the rear wheel as well. I knew keeping thise boards was going to come in handy some day! This gets the whole bike 2" higher right off the bat.
4) Will place my floor jack with about 15" lift and a big 5" diameter lifting plate, under the centerstand crossbar you pointed out, on two of the 2"x10" boards to raise it to be as close to the lift point as possible. Jack it up, remove the board under the rear wheel, giving an extra 2" clearance above what I would have had w/o the board.
5) Drop the wheel out, get the tire mounted, re-install.

This whole process will be a lot easier b/c I run a 70-series rear tire that makes it difficult to remove and install the wheel into the wheel well when the bike is laid over, esp. w/o removing the left muffler.

It will be a while before I do this as my rear has lots of tread remaining, but will post pics to possibly help someone else, as yours helped me.
 

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I change both tires at the same time.
Place bike on center stand, ratchet strap the stand to front engine guard (So it can't roll forward!)
A sissor jack under front of engine to just lift the front wheel off the ground and inch!!

If you have an AMP?
Relocate the radio amp into the bottom of the Trunk. (where the CD player would reside)
Once it's out of the way (Honda should of put it there!!)
You can roll the wheel out the back.
If you have a hitch (You'll remove the center section)

I have a hitch and never jack up my bike when I need either tire changed!!

If you use a bike jack?? Place automotive jack stands under each bag guard.
To stabilize the bike so IT CAN"T Fall over. (Before you lift the front wheel an Inch off the ground with a scissor jack.)

It's not rocket science here guys.

This type of scissor jack acts as a tri-pod with the rear jack stands. (You can leave the bike up in the air forever with this set up.)

They are all over Ebay.

View attachment 399994
All good ideas. I use my jack stands under the front crash bars for stability and security when lifting under the engine with a floor jack to remove the front wheel. Will do this when using the method I described in my previous post. Can't get any more stable than that. Thx
 
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