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Discussion Starter #1
Ok here we go. I have an 07. I want to change the foot pegs to floor boards. ( Yes I know once you have them story) I have on the right side peg one screw that refuses to come out. I used the correct Hex wrench and it stripped the head. I hammered in the next size up that was on a ratch and it will not budge and it stripped also. Now I can not get anything in it. Any suggestions???? I know that I will have to get a new screw but have to get this one out first.
 

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First off if there is some thread lock on it, here is a trick. Take an electric soldering iron with tip and heat the head of the screw. This turns the thread lock to a liquid.

Then use a reverse cut drill bit and drill (in reverse) into the center of the screw. 9 times out of 10 the screw will back right out.

Something else to consider: The Kury hardware is SAE, not metric!

Bulldog
 

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Only alternative would be to drill the head off the bolt with a high quality cobalt drill bit the same OD as the threaded portion of the bolt, if a reverse bit doesn't do it. I'd use antiseize compound screwing in new ones myself.
 

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Depcons

One thing that really helps with tight screws and bolts is a hand impact driver. You can get them at almost any auto supply. You hit the driver with a hammer. It works both directions. I have two of them and they have saved me many times from what you are goinig through now. If you manage to get the old bolt out try this in the future. It makes short work out of any tight bolt or screw. Even ones with thread lock. The heat trick works good if you can get enough heat to the threads.
 

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Since it's already stripped out: just carefully drill off the head with a large drillbit, remove the peg, then clamp some vice grips on the remaining threads and back her out. Finally go to the hardware store and buy a better grade (harder steel usually U.S.) fastener so it won't happen again in stainless or chrome.
 

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Depcons, A $22K machine is an expensive learning tool. Removing
damaged screws and not doing futher damage to your frame is vital.
There are several methods, the location and type of fastner will require
different approches. I suggest an experienced wrench. galewing
PS: At least eyes on by some one with experience.
 

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Do I hear a Helicoil calling?
 

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I have had very little luck with easyouts (20% success rate).
I have had about 80% success with drilling the head off, releasing the item, and grabbing what is left of the stud with vise grips and unscrewing it.
The worst case for me is trying to drill it all the way out and chasing the threads with a tap, especially in aluminum since once you break out a little on the side, the bit really wants to head off center towards the softer aluminum instead of staying in the steel. Helicoils are the last resort for me, but are very good and strong (stonger than original) if you have sufficient wall thickness.
 

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For a button-head or flat-head and if you have the room, you can use a center punch to drive the head in a CCW direction.
 

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I broke a bolt in my frame while mounting my trailer hitch. Needless to say it was high anxiety time. I ended up center drilling the bolt and it ended up causing the bolt to spin out enough on the inside of the frame. I then use a Vise Grip to continue the process.

After removal of the bolt, I re-chased the threads with a tap, re-installed a new bolt and have been good to go ever since.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks guys. I will give all of your suggestions a try. Couldn't hurt. This is the orginal screw that holds on the orginal right foot peg. I have the heat supply. I do believe some fool at the factory used red lock tight and laughed while doing it. Oh well. again thanks
 
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