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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I will be replacing my rear drive with Henry's Modified Rear Drive shortly. This Rear Drive will enable Older Pre 2018 Model Goldwings to have Fifth Gear have the same Ratio as having a Sixth Gear.

When I am doing this I would like to remove the Drive Shaft and Lub the Splines on the front and back of it with Molybdenum Disulfide or Improved SHELL Super Duty Grease as Honda is saying that SHELL's grease is OK for a 6th gen, it might be OK for a 5th gen too.

My question is how to remove the Pinion Shaft from my old Rear Drive to use it to rotate the Drive Shaft to better enable the rotation of the Drive Shaft to couple with the Splines at the front on re-installation. I know I can just cut it off but I would like to keep the Old Rear Drive as a backup.

I have heard even to disassemble the Old Rear Drive and to drive Pinion out can be a bear and to put back in requires Shimming and Expertise. So I may have just answered my own question, that is just leave it alone if i want it as a working Spare.

So a better Question may be is there any suggestions on how to Rotate the Drive Shaft when reinserting it as it the end is hard to get at when putting it in Drive Shaft Tunnel??

Thanks,

Northern-Dancer
 

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Northern-Dancer, You should be able to rotate the drive shaft using long needle noise pliers.
 

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When I am doing this I would like to remove the Drive Shaft and Lub the Splines on the front and back of it with Molybdenum Disulfide or Improved SHELL Super Duty Grease as Honda is saying that SHELL's grease is OK for a 6th gen, it might be OK for a 5th gen too.
FYI ... for 5th gens, Honda calls for different drive shaft spine lube than what you are listing. I use is MolyKote BR-2 Plus. A 6th gen is a much lighter Wing, and may have different requirements.

"Use molybdenum disulfide grease (containing more than 3% molybdenum disulfide, NLGI #2 or equivalent).
Example: Molykote® BR-2 Plus manufactured by Dow Corning, U.S.A. Multi-purpose M-2 manufactured by Mitsubishi Oil, Japan"
 

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FYI ... for 5th gens, Honda calls for different drive shaft spine lube than what you are listing. I use is MolyKote BR-2 Plus. A 6th gen is a much lighter Wing, and may have different requirements.

"Use molybdenum disulfide grease (containing more than 3% molybdenum disulfide, NLGI #2 or equivalent).
Example: Molykote® BR-2 Plus manufactured by Dow Corning, U.S.A. Multi-purpose M-2 manufactured by Mitsubishi Oil, Japan"
Greg, I also have a Henry final drive on order. I looked at a few videos and it didn’t look to difficult. My bike , 2016 F6b has 15k. Am I going to need to do this?
 

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Greg, I also have a Henry final drive on order. I looked at a few videos and it didn’t look to difficult. My bike , 2016 F6b has 15k. Am I going to need to do this?
I'm not sure what your question is. I also have no idea how Henry's final drives come. Do they come with the output shaft properly lubed and attached ??? If not, that means that your old output shaft has to be properly cleaned, inspected, and greased prior to installing it into the new final drive.

 

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I'm not sure what your question is. I also have no idea how Henry's final drives come. Do they come with the output shaft properly lubed and attached ??? If not, that means that your old output shaft has to be properly cleaned, inspected, and greased prior to installing it into the new final drive.

Thanks, I was asking if the output shaft needed to be removed from the engine/transmission. I don’t think it does. Also the Henry final drive is just the final drive. Thanks for the link to the grease. You experts are worth your weight in gold.
 

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Thanks, I was asking if the output shaft needed to be removed from the engine/transmission. I don’t think it does. Also the Henry final drive is just the final drive. Thanks for the link to the grease. You experts are worth your weight in gold.
Thanks

As for removing the drive shaft, I would remove it to inspect the front u-joint. Here at JustWings, if an engine or final-drive is pulled, the drive shaft is always removed for an inspection. Even if the Wing has minimal mileage. These are long distance bikes, so assume nothing. If yours is only used as lunch runner, you might consider it not worth the effort.

To test, have the shaft in one hand and the front yoke in the other. Than, when applying a twisting motion, there should be absolutely no noticeable movement (play) in the front u-joint.

To reinstall, unbolt the rear m/c for more access. Make a mental note of the space between the boot and the rear case. Now push back the drive shaft boot ... notice the grove it came out of, and it's mating raised area on the inside of the boot ???

You will need to find your own way of reinstalling and lining up the front splines onto the output shaft of the engine. If it helps, when the drive shaft is in you hand, grab onto the front yoke only. Now while rotating the shaft and yoke slowly, notice there are 2 positions when the shaft will not tilt downward, and when it's rotated another 45 deg, it cannot rotate left or right. Use that knowledge to your advantage when lining up its front splines up. It might help to guide the yoke from the front while pushing it from the rear.

To reinstall the boot, spray the grove that the boot came our of with BrakeFluid (red can), and with a screw driver on top of the boot, and one on the underside, gently push the boot forward until it looked like it did before removing it.
 

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Thanks

As for removing the drive shaft, I would remove it to inspect the front u-joint. Here at JustWings, if I do an engine pull or a final-drive pull, the drive shaft is always removed for inspection. Even if the Wing has minimal mileage. These are long distance bikes, so assume nothing. If yours is only a lunch runner, you might consider not pulling yours.

To test, have the shaft in one hand and the front yoke in the other. Than, when applying a twisting motion, there should be absolutely no noticeable movement (play) in the front u-joint.
Thank you. Will do.
 

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To install the Henry's Modified Final Drive you will be re-using the final drive side propeller (splined shaft) -
It pulls out of your current final drive - just wiggle it slightly while applying pull force - wear a glove for a better grip but it pops out -
There is an o-ring on that propeller that could/should be changed and Molly added to all splines as you insert it into your new final drive -
You could use it prior to inserting into your new final as a means to help align the driveshaft -
I have heard some use a stick to help hold up the inside end of the shaft to get it back on the drive system -
Watch for the alignment pins in the swing arm - make sure the old ones do not need to be removed (two total on the final drive bolt studs)
Take your time and it will be fine - I love mine so far ... ;)
 
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To install the Henry's Modified Final Drive you will be re-using the final drive side propeller (splined shaft) -
It pulls out of your current final drive - just wiggle it slightly while applying pull force - wear a glove for a better grip but it pops out -
There is an o-ring on that propeller that could/should be changed and Molly added to all splines as you insert it into your new final drive -
You could use it prior to inserting into your new final as a means to help align the driveshaft -
I have heard some use a stick to help hold up the inside end of the shaft to get it back on the drive system -
Watch for the alignment pins in the swing arm - make sure the old ones do not need to be removed (two total on the final drive bolt studs)
Take your time and it will be fine - I love mine so far ... ;)
Man thanks so much for posting this. Does the henry unit come with a rotor? Is there installation instructions? Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks Everyone for speedy Reply's especially Wingscousin and GoldWingrGreg,

The removal the Final Drive Side Propeller (Splined Shaft) is exactly what I needed to know. Also learning there are 2 positions when the shaft will not tilt downward, and when it's rotated another 45 deg, it cannot rotate left or right.

Now I got to grow muscles to be able to lift and hold this heavy Rear Drive while lining up the Propeller and Bolting it secure. What are your suggestions for doing this task and does this need to be a two Man Job. My wife is not great with mechanical tasks and definitely not very strong.

Appreciate You All,

Norther-Dancer
 

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Why not use the proper Moly?

 

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Why not use the proper Moly?

You know ... I think you can. Now that its brought up again, I believe I read in Honda service literature somewhere, that their new lube does meet past requirements.

Also, to the OP ... do like Wingsconsin said. You will need something in the driveshaft end to push it forward.
 

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Man thanks so much for posting this. Does the henry unit come with a rotor? Is there installation instructions? Thanks again!
No Rotor - You will be transfering your old one or buy a new one -
Use an impact screw driver to take the old one off - Add Blue loctite to the screws upon reassembly
No instructions - but it IS pretty straight forward - Search You Tube for replacing the final drive videos -
By removing the right muffler you will gain plenty of access - ;)

Thanks Everyone for speedy Reply's especially Wingscousin and GoldWingrGreg,

The removal the Final Drive Side Propeller (Splined Shaft) is exactly what I needed to know. Also learning there are 2 positions when the shaft will not tilt downward, and when it's rotated another 45 deg, it cannot rotate left or right.

Now I got to grow muscles to be able to lift and hold this heavy Rear Drive while lining up the Propeller and Bolting it secure. What are your suggestions for doing this task and does this need to be a two Man Job. My wife is not great with mechanical tasks and definitely not very strong.

Appreciate You All,

Norther-Dancer
The unit is not really too excessively heavy - I did mine laying on the floor with the bike on the center stand -
Lifting it up and aligning the splines take a bit of oomph (technical word for grunt) but it is do-able - I suspect the final is around 30-40 lbs ??
Once the splines are lined up the unit will slip forward adn the studs should go through the swing arm holes - when it is in that way it will hang while you rest and gather the nuts --- I used a rubber mallet and tapped it forward to seat the alignment sleeves and be sure it was IN - a good whack or two on the rotor was all it took -- I used a RUBBER mallet -- not a hammer --
I add the final drive gear oil AFTER it is installed just because it is messy and DO NOT overfill it - A little below the fill port is fine - Don't spin the gears to get more oil in -
It's a good time to service your rear caliper and brake pads - they are right there and accessible ;)


PS: Due to a warranteed leaking final drive from last fall I have done this twice already. Henry was GREAT about upholding and honoring the warranty.
 

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Just to close the loop a bit on this thread --- there is some good reading in these previous conversations --


 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Results I am having with Henry's Final Drive


Make note I use a BT45 Bias Ply Front Tire and that I calibrated the VEYPOR Analyzer to have a Perfectly accurate Digital Display of Speed/Mileage per GPS. Also This VEYPOR displays exact RPM in Digital Display in 50 RPM Steps being much more accurate then guessing what the Analog OEM display shows which also reads a little higher then the Digital Display at all times.

Also Make Note I am running a Car Tire Dunlop SP5000 Radial Ply on Rear 195-60-16 which has I larger Diameter then OEM Stock Tire as does the BT45 Front Tire. This gives more Cornering clearance then OEM Tires and RPM is lower at all speeds

Make Note that I generally Upshift between 2,000 to 2,200 RPM when driving at a Relaxed Pace and Rev Higher RPM’s to Upshift on a Spirited Pace. Noted with Goldwing in 4th Gear using Henry's Modified Rear Drive the RPM at any given Speed was higher then 5th Gear using OEM Stock Rear Drive. So dropping to 4th Gear with Henry's Final Drive gives stronger Acceleration and Hill Climbing then using 5th Gear with OEM Stock Rear Drive.

Side Note: With the Speedometer Healer having reset My Speedometer not only is its Speed matching my GPS BUT now the Odometer is also correct.

Your RPM results will very slightly higher than Mine as I run a SP 5000 Car Tire and it has a bigger Diameter or Circumference Size being195/60-16.


OEM 5th Gear Speed/RPM

60Km/Hr = 1,550RPM
65Km/Hr = 1,700RPM
70Km/Hr = 1,800RPM
75Km/Hr = 1,950RPM
80Km/Hr = 2,100RPM
85Km/Hr = 2,200RPM
90Km/Hr = 2,350RPM
95Km/Hr = 2,450RPM
100Km/Hr = 2,600RPM
105Km/Hr = 2,750RPM
110Km/Hr = 2,900RPM
115Km/Hr = 3,000RPM

Henry's 5th Gear Speed/RPM

60Km/Hr = 1,300RPM
65Km/Hr = 1,400RPM
70Km/Hr = 1,500RPM
75Km/Hr = 1,600RPM
80Km/Hr = 1,700RPM
85Km/Hr = 1.850RPM
90Km/Hr = 1,950RPM
95Km/Hr = 2,050RPM
100Km/Hr = 2,150RPM
105Km/Hr = 2,250RPM
110Km/Hr = 2,350RPM
115Km/Hr = 2,500RPM
138Km/Hr = 3000RPM


Henry's 4th Gear Speed/RPM

60Km/Hr = 1,600RPM
65Km/Hr = 1,750RPM
70Km/Hr = 1,850RPM
75Km/Hr = 2,000RPM
80Km/Hr = 2,150RPM
85Km/Hr = 2,250RPM
90Km/Hr = 2,400RPM
95Km/Hr = 2,550RPM
100Km/Hr = 2,650RPM
105Km/Hr = 2,800RPM
110Km/Hr = 2,950RPM
115Km/Hr= 3,100RPM


Kilometers Per Hour to Miles Per Hour

60Km/Hr = 37.28Mph
65Km/Hr = 40.39Mph
70Km/Hr = 43.50Mph
75Km/Hr = 46.60Mph
80Km/Hr = 49.71Mph
85Km/Hr = 52.82Mph
90Km/Hr = 55.92Mph
95Km/Hr = 59.03Mph
100Km/Hr = 62.14Mph
105Km/Hr = 65.24Mph
110Km/Hr = 68.35Mph
115Km/Hr = 71.46Mph
138Km/Hr = 85.75Mph


NOTE CANADIAN GALLON IS ABOUT 1 QUART LARGER THAN USA GALLON

Riding at a relaxed Pace Plus 5 to 10 KM/Hr over Posted Speed limits 46.65MpgUSA 56.03MpgCanadian Certified with Henry's Modified Final Drive

Riding at a relaxed Pace Plus 5 to 10 KM/Hr over Posted Speed limits 42.08MpgUSA 50.54MpgCanadian Certified with OEM Stock Final Drive

Henry's Modified Final Drive gets better Miles per Gallon almost 6 MpgCanadian OR just over 4 MpgUSA at Relaxed pace


Riding at a Spirited Pace Plus 15 to 40 KM/Hr over Posted Speed Limits 41.93MpgUSA 50.35MpgCanadian Certified with Henry's Modified Final Drive

Riding at a Spirited Pace Plus 15 to 40 KM/Hr over Posted Speed Limits 36.25MpgUSA 43.54MpgCanadian Certified with OEM Stock Final Drive

Henry's Modified Final Drive gets better Miles per Gallon almost 7 MpgCanadian OR just over 5 MpgUSA at Spirited Pace

PS: I have been recording results of every Fill Up for my Motorcycles and Car since I purchased them

Regards,

Northern Dancer
[
]2008 Nomad 1600 Shaft Drive[/FONT]
2005 Executive Burgman 650cc[/FONT]
2006 ST1300cc Police Special W/B[/FONT]
2006 Goldwing 1832cc Comfort Pkg.[/FONT]
2015 Volkswagen TDI Diesel with DSG
Darksider GL1800 Burgman 650 ST1300PA Nomad 1600
 
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