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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I posted this, buried in a tire thread, on the Tech Board. I think it is important enough to re-post here since I have seen the question asked in a couple of other threads.


I had Hwy pegs mounted on the horizontal engine guard bar per the manufacturers instructions. When I pushed it hard into a right hander the Hwy peg mount was dragging hard and lifted the front tire. To the ditch on the outside I went. There were also "rumble strips" (the grooved pavement type) down the center stripe which I believe also further contributed to the loss of traction of the front wheel. But, I firmly believe the hwy peg mounts were the root cause of my crash.

I was not riding fast (GPS showed 41 in a 45 zone), I was following 2 other wings and a VTX. I was distracted (my bad) just prior to entering the curve, so I was way late on the setup and really cranked on it trying to make the turn without leaving my lane. The result was this:



The Hwy pegs on the new bike are mounted very high on the vertical engine guard bars and have been checked to see that they will not lift the front tire before the engine guards do. This was accomplished by actually laying the bike down on the gaurds. The pegs are not quite as comfortable in this position as they were on the horizontal but I am much more comfortable riding my wing than I am in an emergency room.

I would strongly encourage anyone that has anything mounted on the horizontal engine guard bar to consider this very carefully. You do not have to be riding aggressively to need the full capability of the bike. Mounting too low even on the vertcal bar can cause the same results.

I was on the ride when TonyB, of this board, crashed. I don't think he would mind me saying, as we have discussed it more then once, that the root cause of his crash was the same as mine. Hwy peg mounts on the horizontal engine guard bar lifting the front tire.
 

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Are you sure is wasn't the belly pan? :wink:

Seriously, I've mounted the pegs high on the vertical bar as well, for safety considerations.
 

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Drop

I was there that day, almost a year ago now. You were a lucky man not to have been injured more than you were.

The only time I've ever dropped a street bike was my 1800 when the same thing happend. Lucky I was going very slowly and just had a few scrapes on the crash bar and hwy peg.

It was my fault, but the hwy peg caught and lifted the front tire. Would I have gone down anyway? Possibly.

Since, I've just taken the hwy pegs off the bike completely.
 
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Same thing happened to me. I went deep into a right turn, right aftermounting the pegs, and the entire bike lifted and slid sideways on the peg. I was thrown into the oncoming lane and over to the shoulder. I didn't crash, but it was too close,.
I now have the pegs on the vertical bar and high up. There is a trick to see if the pegs are right. Place a yard stick under the center of the bike and then tilt it up.If it hits the pegs rather than stopping at the bottom of the bike, they are wrong.
Sorry about your ride, but at least you're around to post.

Pat
 

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Do you mind sharing which Highway Pegs you had??? Manufacturer and Model Number? I have the Kury Ergo II's and they are on the horizontal bar.......they are designed to go here.

Any info would be appreciated.

Ron
 

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Appreciate you sharing this. I too added highway pegs soon after purchasing the wing and decided to avoid anything mounted on the horizontal bar. I have the Kury Longhorns(7980) mounted high on the vertical bar. No doubt some of the other options will be more comfortable, but this arrangement is one less thing to worry about.
 

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rrp0968 said:
Do you mind sharing which Highway Pegs you had??? Manufacturer and Model Number? I have the Kury Ergo II's and they are on the horizontal bar.......they are designed to go here.

Any info would be appreciated.

Ron
I have the Kury II's in the 4056 configuration on my horizontal engine guard and my regular foot pegs scrape first, I wonder what gives?? T 8)
 

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Fuzzy said:
I posted this, buried in a tire thread, on the Tech Board. I think it is important enough to re-post here since I have seen the question asked in a couple of other threads.


I had Hwy pegs mounted on the horizontal engine guard bar per the manufacturers instructions. When I pushed it hard into a right hander the Hwy peg mount was dragging hard and lifted the front tire. To the ditch on the outside I went. There were also "rumble strips" (the grooved pavement type) down the center stripe which I believe also further contributed to the loss of traction of the front wheel. But, I firmly believe the hwy peg mounts were the root cause of my crash.

I was not riding fast (GPS showed 41 in a 45 zone), I was following 2 other wings and a VTX. I was distracted (my bad) just prior to entering the curve, so I was way late on the setup and really cranked on it trying to make the turn without leaving my lane. The result was this:



The Hwy pegs on the new bike are mounted very high on the vertical engine guard bars and have been checked to see that they will not lift the front tire before the engine guards do. This was accomplished by actually laying the bike down on the gaurds. The pegs are not quite as comfortable in this position as they were on the horizontal but I am much more comfortable riding my wing than I am in an emergency room.

I would strongly encourage anyone that has anything mounted on the horizontal engine guard bar to consider this very carefully. You do not have to be riding aggressively to need the full capability of the bike. Mounting too low even on the vertcal bar can cause the same results.

I was on the ride when TonyB, of this board, crashed. I don't think he would mind me saying, as we have discussed it more then once, that the root cause of his crash was the same as mine. Hwy peg mounts on the horizontal engine guard bar lifting the front tire.
Not trying to defend the Highway Pegs or anything.......just curious....since I was not there.

Since you were laid that far over in the turn......if the highway pegs would not have been there.......do you think the crash bar itself would have had the same effect?

RRP
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Really don't think the engine gaurd bars would have had the same effect.... But can't say for sure. It is certainly possible the result would have been the same.

I experimented laying the wing over with the pegs and without. It is amazing how much difference it makes. The peg mounts on the horizontal act like a pivot and lift the front tire a lot sooner than the engine gaurd bars do.

I really didn't think it would make that much difference until I tried it for myself.

Why not give yourself all the advantage you can?
 

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Fuzzy said:
Really don't think the engine gaurd bars would have had the same effect.... But can't say for sure. It is certainly possible the result would have been the same.

I experimented laying the wing over with the pegs and without. It is amazing how much difference it makes. The peg mounts on the horizontal act like a pivot and lift the front tire a lot sooner than the engine gaurd bars do.

I really didn't think it would make that much difference until I tried it for myself.

Why not give yourself all the advantage you can?
Thanks for the info.....may have to revist my pegs.

Only experience I have had with them is I dropped the bike while stopping........the Kury's did roll on the crash bar.......so......obviously some clearance is compromised.

Thanks for sharing.

RRP
 

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I can't tell for sure, but from your avatar it appears you have Kury 4050s on the horizontal. They did cause a lot of problems and Kury came out with the 4056s which had a much better mount for the horizontal. Since I've never had either model on mine, I can't say how they work, but the 4056s don't have a mount that will dig into the pavement.

I had **** O Pegs, model K/D-HS on mine. I have gone down on their mounts and I have gone down on the crash bars without the pegs mounted. Each time the reaction was the same. My front wheel lifted off and then caught again. The MOP mounts do not dig into the pavement as they are flat on the bottom with curved edges and in my riding acted exactly like the horizontal bars without pegs.

Obviously, mounting pegs high on the vertical bars is a much better idea. Kury 4050s can be mounted there as can the 4056s with some work. MOPs have two models that can be mounted there as well and also allow your feet to be placed in a more comfortable lower position.

As for the test mentioned above, take this link for pictures on how to do it.

http://www.gl1800riders.com/forums/view ... highlight=
 

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tvbveb said:
I have the Kury II's in the 4056 configuration on my horizontal engine guard and my regular foot pegs scrape first, I wonder what gives?? T 8)
Same here. I have the 4056 and regularly scrape them, they then push up as they are designed to. If I lean furthur, then the foot pegs scrape.
This summer I intentionly laid the Wing over in the driveway to see what touched and what did not. It appeared that the mounting clamp on the 4056 was clear enough away from the pavement.
 

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The 4056 is what I have as well......

If you do lay the bike over they will roll on the engine gaurd.....been there....done that.......thankfully while stopped.

If I do lean in a hard turn though.......my riders pegs will contact the pavement first as well.

RRP
 

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SCRAP'IN

rrp0968 said:
The 4056 is what I have as well......

If you do lay the bike over they will roll on the engine gaurd.....been there....done that.......thankfully while stopped.

If I do lean in a hard turn though.......my riders pegs will contact the pavement first as well.

RRP
Thats all I was saying. The was the whole reason for Kurys changes. They went from the original design of the 4050 to a redesigned 4056, for improved clearance and to limit their liability. T. 8)
 

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Thanks for posting this Fuzzy.

After reading your post and the links others have added I think I'll try going without any highway pegs on my new wing.
 

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On the way home from St Louis when I picked my new to me bike(4000 original miles), I was riding thru some nice sweepers on I-70 and the kury( means rust) pegs touched. I then tried to raise them up- but that was uncomfortable.
I saw a picture on this forum that had them mounted on the vertical bars and changed mine. It wasn't as comfortable as the lower position but- way more safer.
 

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Dale -

Sorry to see your wreck. Yes, wreck not accident. I'm not trying to start anything but almost a year ago, some of us had a discussion exactly about how this happens and how to avoid it. It has nothing to do with the type of tires nor where the pegs are mounted. It has all to do with exactly what you said.."I was not riding fast (GPS showed 41 in a 45 zone)".."I was distracted (my bad) just prior to entering the curve, so I was way late on the setup and really cranked on it trying to make the turn without leaving my lane. "

I STRONGLY suggest that anyone who can, please take an ERC or road racing course and learn how to handle a corner where in "normal riding position and conditions" you are going to drag anything. If you don't know how to radically change your center of gravity on the bike to upright it when you think you are at max lean angle....go find out how to do it. That way you should never be in danger of doing it again. Getting your body on the inside of the bike in a turn FORCES the bike more vertical, making draggin anything much more difficult to do. Yellow Wolf, Fred H and I and many others on the board tried to get this through last year. Maybe it's time for another discussion of bike physics. Cranking it on without moving your center of gravity causes the bike to learn over and YOU found out what happens next.

If you want to read it yourself get Tony Foale's motorcycle suspension and racing set up book. He has the formulas, the physics and just plain common language skills to make it easy for anyone to understand.

I see you did a new 05 blue out of the deal - the best color I might add.
 

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Bear in mind that your clearance is different when stopped and layed ofver than when your are hard in a trurn at a hard angle. The front suspension is almost fully collpased in the moving incident and fully extended in the stopped condition.

prs
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Guys the 4056 pegs still reduce cornering clearance even though they were re-designed. They are not near as limiting as the old model but clearance is still reduced. Yes the riders pegs scrape first, they fold up and will not cause loss of traction.

Dan, yes I originally installed the Kury 4056 Ergo II back on the horizontal per the instructions. Wow, you have good eyes. :wink: They were there for about 3K miles when I got to thinking "what am I doing"? At that point I started doing the checks and modified the bracket and put them on the vertical.

Jack, I strongly agree with all of your points. I understand the physics of riding and center of gravity and practice it often. You will notice I did not use the term accident, I know it was my fault. We were joy riding and enjoying scenery and I was not as focused as I needed to be. No doubt in my mind that I could have made the corner, even at a much faster speed, without my mistakes. All the training and knowledge in the world doesn't help if you are not applying it. There may be another lesson in there somewhere??? :oops: :wink: When focused on riding the way you should and applying knowledge and training even rider peg scraping is minimized.

My whole point in writing this thread was to provide information. I just wanted to point out that mounting anything on the horizontal bar actually changes the physics of the bike and reduces it's capability. This reduced capability can have disasterous effects if you need all the clearance that was designed into the bike and it is not there.
 
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