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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am soooooooo pissed with myself...!!!! :eek:4::eek:4::eek:4::eek:4::eek:4:

Went to change the bleeders for the speed bleeders.
The parts I ordered are correct parts SB8125L M8 x 1.25.

The first one I was working on is the right front lower one.
Took the OEM out, inserted the SB but it did not go in all the way down to for the nut to be flush with the caliper. There we maybe 2 threads left...
I thought it may be because of the thread locker on it. twisted a bit more...

Damn!!! the SB snaps right off :22yikes::22yikes::22yikes:

What am I to do now????
The brake fluid is seeping out very slowly. But I believe it will stop as I se the ball (that is the valve inside the speed bleeder) right against the opening. So if I do not squeeze the brakes, it should be OK, I guess..

HOW do I extract it now?

P.S. Was the Speed bleeder suppose to be flush or should I have stopped when even though more threads were showing?

Thanks!
 

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Go to a hardware store and buy an 'Easyout" it is an "extractor" Then bring your wing to a "Shop"... it will make your wallet lighter but your Heart will last longer..... you don't want to "Stroke out" repairing a friggin motorcycle!!!

Good luck..

Matt(BCNV) :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Matt, I am OK ;) Just pissed!

It was really a SIMPLE swap.... Thanks for the extractor idea!
I should be able to do it myself, I want to.
Done more difficult things on it...
 

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From the speedbleeder website: Procedure for removing a broken Speed Bleeder For those who would like to remove a broken Speed Bleeder themselves, I will explain the best way to remove the broken Speed Bleeder. Read these instructions over and over until you understand the procedure and feel comfortable tackling this job. If you still have questions or don't understand the steps you can call me or e-mail me for clarification. Do not use an EZ-Out! I can't emphasize this enough! This tool is too brittle and hardened and nine times out of ten you will snap it off and loose any hope of removing the broken part. Before you can remove the broken part you will have to remove the spring and stainless steel ball. You cannot and will not drill through the hardened stainless steel ball. The spring can be removed by using a piece of wire or pick. The ball can be removed with a blast of air from an air compressor. If you still cannot remove the ball because of a burr at the area where the break occurred you can use a drill bit to clean up the burr. Then the blast of air should remove the ball. Next, drill a 1/4" deep hole in the Speed Bleeder with a 5/32" drill bit. A good quality cordless battery powered drill such as "Dewalt" works best for this step. It is easily maneuvered and has a built-in clutch to minimize drill breakage. Try not to go all the way through the bottom of the Speed Bleeder. Then take a 5/32" hex wrench (allen wrench) and tap it into the hole that you just drilled with a hammer. Use a quality hex wrench. A quality hex wrench will be hardened and tempered which makes it strong and ideal for the job. The corners of the 5/32" hex wrench will bite into the sides of the hole forming a hex socket. Then carefully turn out the broken part of the Speed Bleeder. If the wrench spins in the hole and will not remove the broken Speed Bleeder use the next larger size drill bit and corresponding hex wrench. This procedure is one way to remove a broken Speed Bleeder and works very well. Be patient and be careful when doing this procedure. I don't want to see anyone get hurt. Wear eye protection! The latest way to remove a broken Speed Bleeder if the above procedure fails: Usually the Speed Bleeder is broken off flush with the caliper. Take a common 3/8 x 16 nut and lay it centered over the broken Speed Bleeder. Then take a GMAW (gas metal arc welder) or wire feed welder and apply weld through the center of the 3/8 nut to weld the nut to the broken Speed Bleeder. Fill the nut flush with the top of the nut with weld and then let it cool. This essentially welds the nut to the broken Speed Bleeder. Take a 9/16" box wrench and turn the nut counter clockwise and remove the broken Speed Bleeder with a few turns. Before performing the weld process take some common clear packaging tape and cover the caliper with a few wraps of tape to protect the caliper from weld splatter. It works very well. After the Speed Bleeder is removed chase the threads with a clean tap of the correct thread size. Then use a razor blade and carefully remove the tape. The caliper is as good as new. http://www.speedbleeder.com/News.htm
 

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WOW!!

Bring it to a SHOP!!! NOW!!!!

LOL

Matt(BCNV) :shock:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
From the speedbleeder website: Procedure for removing a broken Speed Bleeder For those who would like to remove a broken Speed Bleeder themselves, I will explain the best way to remove the broken Speed Bleeder. Read these instructions over and over until you understand the procedure and feel comfortable tackling this job. If you still have questions or don't understand the steps you can call me or e-mail me for clarification. Do not use an EZ-Out! I can't emphasize this enough! This tool is too brittle and hardened and nine times out of ten you will snap it off and loose any hope of removing the broken part. Before you can remove the broken part you will have to remove the spring and stainless steel ball. You cannot and will not drill through the hardened stainless steel ball. The spring can be removed by using a piece of wire or pick. The ball can be removed with a blast of air from an air compressor. If you still cannot remove the ball because of a burr at the area where the break occurred you can use a drill bit to clean up the burr. Then the blast of air should remove the ball. Next, drill a 1/4" deep hole in the Speed Bleeder with a 5/32" drill bit. A good quality cordless battery powered drill such as "Dewalt" works best for this step. It is easily maneuvered and has a built-in clutch to minimize drill breakage. Try not to go all the way through the bottom of the Speed Bleeder. Then take a 5/32" hex wrench (allen wrench) and tap it into the hole that you just drilled with a hammer. Use a quality hex wrench. A quality hex wrench will be hardened and tempered which makes it strong and ideal for the job. The corners of the 5/32" hex wrench will bite into the sides of the hole forming a hex socket. Then carefully turn out the broken part of the Speed Bleeder. If the wrench spins in the hole and will not remove the broken Speed Bleeder use the next larger size drill bit and corresponding hex wrench. This procedure is one way to remove a broken Speed Bleeder and works very well. Be patient and be careful when doing this procedure. I don't want to see anyone get hurt. Wear eye protection! The latest way to remove a broken Speed Bleeder if the above procedure fails: Usually the Speed Bleeder is broken off flush with the caliper. Take a common 3/8 x 16 nut and lay it centered over the broken Speed Bleeder. Then take a GMAW (gas metal arc welder) or wire feed welder and apply weld through the center of the 3/8 nut to weld the nut to the broken Speed Bleeder. Fill the nut flush with the top of the nut with weld and then let it cool. This essentially welds the nut to the broken Speed Bleeder. Take a 9/16" box wrench and turn the nut counter clockwise and remove the broken Speed Bleeder with a few turns. Before performing the weld process take some common clear packaging tape and cover the caliper with a few wraps of tape to protect the caliper from weld splatter. It works very well. After the Speed Bleeder is removed chase the threads with a clean tap of the correct thread size. Then use a razor blade and carefully remove the tape. The caliper is as good as new. http://www.speedbleeder.com/News.htm
DAMN!!!!
Looks like I will wind up needing a new caliper...

No one will bother with all that crap in the shop, I am afraid...

UPDATE - managed to get the ball out. Tapped in the allen, but it was too soft, Will buy the hardened one tomorrow and re-try.

SPEED Bleeder company offers to extract the broken bleeder from the caliper and replace it with the new bleeder FOR FREE if you send them the caliper.
So, my question is - what would be the procedure to remove the banjo bolts and how to prevent ALL the brake fluid from leaking out, since we do not want to empty the master cylinder? I would think that clipping the lines is not the best bet...


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So, my question is - what would be the procedure to remove the banjo bolts and how to prevent ALL the brake fluid from leaking out, since we do not want to empty the master cylinder? I would think that clipping the lines is not the best bet...
You need some rubber stoppers or plugs that you can shove into the eye of the banjo bolt. If there is a place near you that sells supplies for auto body shops, buy a bag of assorted hole plugs. These are silicon rubber "corks" in various sizes that are used for masking holes while painting.
 

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After you get it fixed invest in a Motion Pro bleeder. It makes bleeding brakes and clutch a simple one man job.

Good luck
 

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Heed their advice about not using the easy-out unless you have used them a lot before. I once had to drill one out of an exhaust flange bolt on a Fiero head with a 90degree adapter to get to it. Took most of two nights, but did it with two carbide bits and one good easy-out.

Honestly, after all of that, I'll never install speed bleeders. It isn't all that hard to bleed them the old fashioned way if you have a willing helper (youngest daughter).
 

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Do not clip the lines !!

So, my question is - what would be the procedure to remove the banjo bolts and how to prevent ALL the brake fluid from leaking out, since we do not want to empty the master cylinder? I would think that clipping the lines is not the best bet...
DO NOT CLIP, KINK OR OTHERWISE BEND THE LINE !!! The inner portion of a brake line is a small tube. If you put a bend or kink into the line, it will permanently deform the line and prevent brake fluid from coming out of your caliper piston when you take the high pressure from applying the brakes off. The pistons retract slightly from the rotor due to the slight irregularity in the rotor. This pressure is very small cmpared to the pressure when you apply the brakes. In essence, the kink acts like a one-way valve for your brake line, causing the caliper to stick and the rotor and brake pads to overheat and warp.

I have found the hardened (not cheapo) allen wrench method to be the easiest and quickest way to get the bleeder bolts out. Second hardest is the easy out method. Third and last resort is drilling out the old bolt completely and retapping the hole. Haven't tried the welder method before. Have used a torch to heat the caliper area to help break loose the old bolt though.

Rubber plugs work well for plugging the line when you take the banjo bolt out. Put something under the line to catch drips and keep it off the paint. And you'll need to do a complete bleed of the system afterwords anyway, so don't worry too much about master cylinder level.
 

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Depending on how tight it got before it snapped (remember it's hollow cored)

I'd get a couple reverse drill bits and slowly try and remove the broken section first.The reverse drill may bite into the shaft and spin it out?? it's worth a shot at this point.

Patience is paramonut in excraction of broken bolts.

Bleeding out the caliper at this point is the least of your troubles.I'd pull the caliper and put it in a vise to have easier access to the damaged bolt/SB

Yes I have seen guys break easy outs,but they did it to themselves by "Forcing" the easy out to aggressivly!

An easy out will work if you don't use enough force to snap it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thank you all, guys!

Stand by for updates :)
 
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