There is a difference in alignment and emitted light. The hotter the filiment, the whiter the light and that is why I asked riders to look not at the beam but at the reflection of the filiment off axis in the reflectors. If they are the same color of white, then they will likely be at the same filiment temperature.

The reason I re aimed the lights was that the whole front of the bike, from the headrace forward, was replaced after the deer strike. That is when I noticed that the left headlight was more yellow than white and paid $115 to have new high beams put in. Then there was no difference in the lower luminisity left high beam.

It was difficult to measure the voltage at the headlights, but my more agile son and I did that. Here were the readings.

Left positive 11.86 volts

Left Negative 0.29 volts

Right positive 14.000 volts

Right negative 0.24 volts.

The voltage impressed on the right bulb was therefore 13.76 volts and on the left was 11.63 volts.

If we assume that 13.76 volts will get you the rated 55 watts, and if watts is equal to voltage squared divided by the resistance, then it follows that the hot resistance of the bulb is 3.443 ohms.

Though not exact because the cooler filiment will have lower resistance, if we assume that the left bulb also has 3.443 ohms resistance, then the wattage for the 11.63 volts will be 39.29 watts.

Also, since we have a voltage drop somewhere of 2.37 volts, and with current equal to the wattage divided by the voltage, there is 3.378 amps flowing and with the demon drop wattage also being the current times the voltage, we have 8.01 watts of heat somewhere that it should not be. A 10 watt soldering iron will melt solder at 600 degrees.

Since I still have an 01 shop manual that showed both High Beams in parallel, I was convinced that there was a bad splice, untill Fred Harmon researched the circuit of the 02 and later bikes.

When I was in for service yesterday, I looked at a late shop manual (with heated seats) to verify what Fred found in the left headlight circuit and sure enough the left headlight gets its power through the start switch and the high/low beam switch, and not through any relay at all. A bummer of a circuit as far as I am concerned. The dealer still refused to beleive that is how it is wired even after I showed them in the manual.

The next time I am in the front end of the bike, I will put in a second relay and directly operate the left headlignt so it is exactly like th e right. It is rediculous to run power through the handlebar wiring and swithches. That is 1960 technology.

I would appreciate anyone taking the time to notice the color of the filiments of ther high beam light. I do all of this with the engine running so as to have regulated voltage.

By the way, Fred has on his wonderful site some photos of different bulbs and the color is obviously more yellow on the lower brightness light.

http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/headlamps
The only thing I would add to Fred's comments is to reinforce that you must not touch the quartz envelope of the new bulb after it is cleaned with alcohol, as the oils in your skin will change the crystaline structure of the bulb and destroy its ability to pass light.