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Discussion Starter #1
Any reason NOT to do this? Alternator is out for repair so I might as well warm up the engine to change the oil.

Anything detrimental I should know about?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No, but it will put oil out the alternator drive hole
A little bit or a whole lot? Don't want to make a mess in there?
 

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No, but it will put oil out the alternator drive hole.

I have not been in there, but that surprises me. Figured the alt drive would be a sealed component. Did they put the oil seal on the back of the ALT?

prs
 

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Can't imagine that a lot of oil would come out of that hole as there is no pressure passage anywhere near there. Most of the oil stays in the crankcase with the crankshaft and trans gears. There is a hole where some oil can flow into the rear case and some gets picked up by the various gears and splashed around to try to keep them lubed. May be some crankcase vent issues with that hole open. Try putting a piece of duct tape over it while you warm the engine.

Don't forget to recharge the battery.

What happened to the alternator?
 

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GL1800 Doctor
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The bearing just inside the opening has pressurized oil going to it thru the ADG shaft and there's no seal. There's an o-ring on the alternator housing where it slips into the opening to keep it inside. The duct tape is a good idea.
 

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why would you even try. ive never pulled the alternator off my car, then have a burning urge to see if it will idle. just curious
 

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Mech. at my dealer ran mine with the alt. off to determine whether the whine was from the alt. or drive assembly. It was from the drive and he said he had oil to clean up after the test. This was after they had replaced one alt. under warranty to lessen the noise.
 

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Your owners manual does say to run 3-5 min to drain the oil. Since it is a drain and fill anyway, you can do it without warming first. Just doing it is the most important part. It does need to run 2-3 min to check also.

If you want, hold a rag in the alternator hole and that will block it. Have a drain bucket under it just in case.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Greetings,

First: The bike runs fine without the alternator. No oil escaped from the drive hole when idling to warm up to drain the oil.

Second: It confirmed that the alternator was the source of the noise I had versus something internal. Amazing how quiet that engine is without the alternator making electricity.

2nd new replacement is due in Monday via the big brown truck. Maybe this one will NOT be noisy!
 

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Unless you are very unlucky to get two out-of-the box bad alternators, it could be that your ADG (alternator drive gear) is going bad. It doesn't make any noise when the alternator is out of the bike because there is no drive load on the gear train.

Spin the old alternator by hand to listen for bearing noise and to feel for any roughness.

If the new(est) alternator still makes noise when installed, you may have deeper problems.
 

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Awhhh ... are you saying that you ran the bike and no oil came out the alternator hole? Assuming the oil level is correct, you must have oil flow there. If not, you have a lubrication issue.

Is there a history here about alternators going out?
 

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You guys are jumping to conclusions.
His original Alt went out on a trip with friends in TX,He had to have a Ebay alt overnighted to him so he could get back home.It turns out that the ebay alt had a bad bearing,more than likely it wasn't installed correctly and howled.So he is getting a replacement alt.

While the alt was out when he was home,he started the bike to confirm it was the alt noise."it was".

Yes you can run the engine with no alt in the bike.It doesn't splash oil out as you'd think.A rag/duct tape or as I wached a mechanic do to my bike-A piece of cardboard.
Dealers do it all the time to verify a Alt or ACG issue.



Here is the original alt thread. http://gl1800riders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=284124
 

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GL1800 Doctor
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I wonder how long you have to run it before oil does start coming out. I would think it would be soon. The oil is pumped up to the front ADG bearing and goes thru the center of the ADG shaft to lub the ADG and the rear bearing. I would think oil should be coming out pretty quick unless there's an issue. That rear bearing has no passages to feed it other than the ADG shaft.
Maybe a weak oiling system back there could be some of the reasons for failures in this drive system. Maybe the ebay unit was fine until he ran it 900 miles with little to no oil. Sorry, just thinking out loud. I would investigate just how much oil is coming thru the shaft before reassembly if that was my bike. A blocked oil passage could be his original issue.:eek:4:
 

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I wonder how long you have to run it before oil does start coming out. I would think it would be soon. The oil is pumped up to the front ADG bearing and goes thru the center of the ADG shaft to lub the ADG and the rear bearing. I would think oil should be coming out pretty quick unless there's an issue. That rear bearing has no passages to feed it other than the ADG shaft.
Maybe a weak oiling system back there could be some of the reasons for failures in this drive system. Maybe the ebay unit was fine until he ran it 900 miles with little to no oil. Sorry, just thinking out loud. I would investigate just how much oil is coming thru the shaft before reassembly if that was my bike. A blocked oil passage could be his original issue.:eek:4:
Exactly ... oil will begin to flow within about 10 seconds after start up. Yes, you can containn it with rag, tape, card board ... but oil must be there with a "slow" flow. If no oil flow, no lubrication to the ADV bearings, and that will cause excessive vibration through the shaft and wear the alternator bearings.

This poster may need to backup ... start with oil level check, install an alternator, and do an oil pressure test. 77 psi 5,000 rpms if my memory is correct.
 

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I have not been in there, but that surprises me. Figured the alt drive would be a sealed component. Did they put the oil seal on the back of the ALT?

prs
They put an oil seal in the front of the alternator. Oil is under pressure through the front ADG bearing, through the ADG, and it path is blocked at the front alternator seal. The blockage forces the oil to escape back into the sump area through the rear ADG bearing.
 

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Alt or drive

What are you looking for in an ALT or Drive? What type of sounds or problems does the alt or drive make suggesting a need to troubleshoot them?
 

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why would you even try. ive never pulled the alternator off my car, then have a burning urge to see if it will idle. just curious
It said it in the OP. He wanted to warm up the oil and change it while waiting for the replacement alternator.
 

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GL1800 Doctor
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They put an oil seal in the front of the alternator. Oil is under pressure through the front ADG bearing, through the ADG, and it path is blocked at the front alternator seal. The blockage forces the oil to escape back into the sump area through the rear ADG bearing.
Yep, and with the alternator out you should have unrestricted oil flow coming out of the ADG shaft. Greg have you/us/we stumbled across a possible cause for ADG failures that Honda is keeping quiet about? :-? Do you think a lack of oil back there could cause the ADG to fail in the manner in which they usually die?
 

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Yep, and with the alternator out you should have unrestricted oil flow coming out of the ADG shaft. Greg have you/us/we stumbled across a possible cause for ADG failures that Honda is keeping quiet about? :-? Do you think a lack of oil back there could cause the ADG to fail in the manner in which they usually die?
That is a good question. I've never done a oil pressure test prior to an engine pull when a ADG is bad. The fear is doing eng further eng. damage. Next time I will and will post the results.

To me the ADG goes bad by design. Something has to fail first, and the ADG is usually the thing in the motor that does.
 
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