Installing handlebar risers?
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1,778 Posts
Don't drop the bars on the tupperware.
Be careful to keep the cables out of the way when you tighten them down.
You'll need to take the right hand side cables out of the cable hold-down to get the riser and handlbar in place, and prolly need to zip-tie them back, as they won't stretch to go back into the hold-down like they started out.
There's no adjustment, so that's about it.
Your hands will be prominently featured in your rear view mirrors after the install. Get used to it..
Be careful to keep the cables out of the way when you tighten them down.
You'll need to take the right hand side cables out of the cable hold-down to get the riser and handlbar in place, and prolly need to zip-tie them back, as they won't stretch to go back into the hold-down like they started out.
There's no adjustment, so that's about it.
Your hands will be prominently featured in your rear view mirrors after the install. Get used to it..
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1,550 Posts
A second set of hands makes this install a bunch easier. Not that you can't do it alone but it's much easier with a helper to hold the handlebar up when its unbolted.
Having a torquewrench around isn't a bad idea either.
Having a torquewrench around isn't a bad idea either.
I got the REG Risers from Hal...they are adjustable...joe_flash said:
http://www.hondadirectlineusa.com/store ... =827343486
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101 Posts
Installing REG Risers
Hi Ray
It took a long long time and I just got finished. The instructions that came with the REG Risers were flawless but because the risers forward holes were not countersunk deep enough I had to grind the heads down on 2 of the bolts so that the riser and the handlebars would remain flush.
I am going to call them of the problem. For the amount of money they get for their risers, one shouldn't have to take out a bench grinder.
I had to remove both sides of the handlebar bottom covers to free up the exta length needed for the cabling and hoses to accommodate the increased height.
Taking off the meter panel was a pain and is different than the previous years. Removing the wires from under the meter panel and the wires from the tweeters took forever. It is all very hard to see what you are doing and the clips almost impossible to see.
Don't try to do this by yourself - get an extra set of hands.
BTW, the second I got back in the saddle the difference was immediate. It was so much more comfortable for me. I was afraid that after all of the work to install them I might not like them and I would have to take them off.
RIDE SAFE
DonNJ
Hi Ray
It took a long long time and I just got finished. The instructions that came with the REG Risers were flawless but because the risers forward holes were not countersunk deep enough I had to grind the heads down on 2 of the bolts so that the riser and the handlebars would remain flush.
I am going to call them of the problem. For the amount of money they get for their risers, one shouldn't have to take out a bench grinder.
I had to remove both sides of the handlebar bottom covers to free up the exta length needed for the cabling and hoses to accommodate the increased height.
Taking off the meter panel was a pain and is different than the previous years. Removing the wires from under the meter panel and the wires from the tweeters took forever. It is all very hard to see what you are doing and the clips almost impossible to see.
Don't try to do this by yourself - get an extra set of hands.
BTW, the second I got back in the saddle the difference was immediate. It was so much more comfortable for me. I was afraid that after all of the work to install them I might not like them and I would have to take them off.
RIDE SAFE
DonNJ
One more thing...
Ray,
If you haven't installed them yet, just one more piece of advice applicable to the Ultimate Reg Risers -- there is a set screw on each side to lock the position in place -- takes a small allen wrench (hex key). The directions don't tell you what size, and they don't include the key. Getting to them is a bear after the handlebars are installed, and there's no way you're going to see -- it's all by feel. Do yourself a favor and, unlike me, find the right hex key before you start!
The risers are a huge improvement in comfort.
Ride safe,
John
Ray,
If you haven't installed them yet, just one more piece of advice applicable to the Ultimate Reg Risers -- there is a set screw on each side to lock the position in place -- takes a small allen wrench (hex key). The directions don't tell you what size, and they don't include the key. Getting to them is a bear after the handlebars are installed, and there's no way you're going to see -- it's all by feel. Do yourself a favor and, unlike me, find the right hex key before you start!
The risers are a huge improvement in comfort.
Ride safe,
John
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101 Posts
REG Risers: This is to Windrider & Ray
Hi guys,
I'm glad to see that I am not the only one who had trouble with that set screw. Did you figure out the size because I also neglected to look at it ahead of time? Actually I thought I saw an Allen Key in one of the bags but I was sadly wrong.
The best I can tell is that it is a 2mm but it is impossible o tighten once the bars are in place and that is when the instructions tell you to do it. My smallest metric Allen socket is a 3mm so that won't work and using an Allen key is damn near impossible.
I tried for over 30 minutes yesterday to get to them. I think I may have turned them some but can't really be sure. I was almost tempted to cut one of my Allens but then I came to my senses.
But, I figure that with 24 lbs torque on the bolts that hold the risers to the bike, and 40 lbs of the front bolt ad 55 lbs on the rear bolt holding the handlebars to the riser it won't be going anywhere. Remember also that the back bolt uses a star lock washer and RED Lock-Tite.
Two questions for you all:
1. I had to take off the bottom covers of both handlebars to free up enough slack ( & might I add - just enough ) to accommodate the risers. It is imposible to remove the bracket holding the hydraulic lines and other things as it goes from one side of the bike to the other.
I think I can get the right side back on but forget about the left side and I am not really sure if I care. The only cables that seem to be more snug than I would like are the throttle cables and they weren't even under the handlebar bottom cover to begin with.
2. Did you find the same problem with the bolts that I had to grind down so that the riser and the handlebar could mate flush?
I'd appreciate your feedback on these issues.
By the way - I have my handlebars positioned all the way back and the difference is absolutely amazing.
Be Well & RIDE SAFE.
DonNJ
Hi guys,
I'm glad to see that I am not the only one who had trouble with that set screw. Did you figure out the size because I also neglected to look at it ahead of time? Actually I thought I saw an Allen Key in one of the bags but I was sadly wrong.
The best I can tell is that it is a 2mm but it is impossible o tighten once the bars are in place and that is when the instructions tell you to do it. My smallest metric Allen socket is a 3mm so that won't work and using an Allen key is damn near impossible.
I tried for over 30 minutes yesterday to get to them. I think I may have turned them some but can't really be sure. I was almost tempted to cut one of my Allens but then I came to my senses.
But, I figure that with 24 lbs torque on the bolts that hold the risers to the bike, and 40 lbs of the front bolt ad 55 lbs on the rear bolt holding the handlebars to the riser it won't be going anywhere. Remember also that the back bolt uses a star lock washer and RED Lock-Tite.
Two questions for you all:
1. I had to take off the bottom covers of both handlebars to free up enough slack ( & might I add - just enough ) to accommodate the risers. It is imposible to remove the bracket holding the hydraulic lines and other things as it goes from one side of the bike to the other.
I think I can get the right side back on but forget about the left side and I am not really sure if I care. The only cables that seem to be more snug than I would like are the throttle cables and they weren't even under the handlebar bottom cover to begin with.
2. Did you find the same problem with the bolts that I had to grind down so that the riser and the handlebar could mate flush?
I'd appreciate your feedback on these issues.
By the way - I have my handlebars positioned all the way back and the difference is absolutely amazing.
Be Well & RIDE SAFE.
DonNJ
Joined
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85 Posts
Kuryakyn Risers
I decided to try the Kuryakyn risers instead of the REG. No reason, except the few dollars difference. They installed rather simply and do the job. Put about 6 hrs on the bike Saturday after the install and the new arm position was mucho better!
Using both the risers and spacers claim to move them 1" up, 1" in, and 2" back. My non exact measurements verified that was about right.
As others have stated, both cable clamps had to be loosened to relax the cables. I snugged the clamps back to the cables which should not be a problem.
I decided to try the Kuryakyn risers instead of the REG. No reason, except the few dollars difference. They installed rather simply and do the job. Put about 6 hrs on the bike Saturday after the install and the new arm position was mucho better!
Using both the risers and spacers claim to move them 1" up, 1" in, and 2" back. My non exact measurements verified that was about right.
As others have stated, both cable clamps had to be loosened to relax the cables. I snugged the clamps back to the cables which should not be a problem.
Joined
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501 Posts
Re: One more thing...
I noticed my bolts were ever so slightly sticking up. Maybe .030".
I liked the ideal you didn't have to cut your top fork cover. Very cool.
If I had to wine a little the adhesive cover stick pads were not very good. The adhesive would peel off with the paper and not stick to the pads. Two of four did this. I hope the other two will stay on.
Everything went back stock as far as dressing the cables and wires. Very pleased with this kit.
It is a 2mm allen. Just put mine on tonight. Good kit. How to tighten 2mm screws. Go from the bottom side underneath the fairing and forks. Turn the wheel to a full lock and you can reach your hand up from the bottom side. Not too bad and doable.windrider said:
I noticed my bolts were ever so slightly sticking up. Maybe .030".
I liked the ideal you didn't have to cut your top fork cover. Very cool.
If I had to wine a little the adhesive cover stick pads were not very good. The adhesive would peel off with the paper and not stick to the pads. Two of four did this. I hope the other two will stay on.
Everything went back stock as far as dressing the cables and wires. Very pleased with this kit.
another dumb question
The instructions for the riser installation say I need to remove the dash panel. How do I do that? Do I need a service manual for instructions? I don't want to start prying stuff off without knowing what I'm doing.
The instructions for the riser installation say I need to remove the dash panel. How do I do that? Do I need a service manual for instructions? I don't want to start prying stuff off without knowing what I'm doing.
Ray,
Steve Saunder's site should give you all the help that is needed: http://www.goldwingfacts.com/18airfilter.htm
From memory, remove both speaker grills. Behind each speaker grill are two allen head screws. Once they are removed, the meter panel is held in place by (4) plastic pins inside of rubber gromets. The meter panel can be removed by pulling it to the rear of the bike.
I remove the speaker grills by pushing them down, curse plastic, then use a small flat blade screw driver to push the top two plastic clips down as I rotate the speaker grills out.
Jim
Steve Saunder's site should give you all the help that is needed: http://www.goldwingfacts.com/18airfilter.htm
From memory, remove both speaker grills. Behind each speaker grill are two allen head screws. Once they are removed, the meter panel is held in place by (4) plastic pins inside of rubber gromets. The meter panel can be removed by pulling it to the rear of the bike.
I remove the speaker grills by pushing them down, curse plastic, then use a small flat blade screw driver to push the top two plastic clips down as I rotate the speaker grills out.
Jim
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