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Discussion Starter #1
:shrug: Need some help here! I stopped one night at a remote gas station and gassed up, went to start the wing and turned over very very slow and no start. I waited about 10 minutes and tried it again and it turned over very slowely but just enough to start. I rode it home (about 2 hrs) and went the next day to buy a new battery. I have an '03 and did this March of '09. I thought I got a decent life out of original battery. Put new one in and rode it for a month and had hand surgery and had to stay off about 6 weeks. Last week I got the OK to ride and battery (new one) was very low so I charged it about 24 hours, first 10 hours on 10amp and the rest on 2amp. Started right up, sounded right and off I go. I let it set for a couple of days and now it's to low to start it. I had charged the old battery when I took it out and kept for a spare. I put that one in and took the new back to A-1 Battery where I purchased it and they tested it and said it was OK and just needs a good charging. I took it home and left the old one in and it seemed to be doing fine. Last night I rode to work and home and back out about 10 miles (all good) and went to start it again and no go. Had wife bring the new one and it bairly started it, I rode it home (10 miles) turned it off and it started right up like nothing had ever happened. 1) Could it be the starter going bad, 2) could it be bad contacts between battery and cables which I checked. 3) could it be the cables themselves. Need to mention that I checked with a volt meter while running I read close to 14 volts, so I can only assume that the alternater is working. Guys, any ideas. Has anyone had this problem. Any advise.:bow:
 

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No help to you, but don't use 10A on a motorcycle battery. It's going to cook it. Having 10A for 10hrs, the battery is probably damaged. If you charged the new one at 10A it's probably bad too. You may just need another battery.
 

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:shrug:If you think something could be draining the battery, unhook the negative cable and let it sit overnight. Hook it back up the next day and see if it will start.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Battery

I will ask the manufacturer of the battery as they are in town about the amps to charge with, and I will also try disconnecting the neg side to see if that makes a difference. Its a start, no pun intended! We'll OK pun was intended.:bow:
 

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battery

Try this and let us know what you find.

Start the bike and take a standard volt meter and measure the voltage AT the battery posts. You should measure anywhere from 13.8 to 14.2 volts.
If your NOT getting at least 13.3-13.5 I would then suspect stator/regulator problem.

Run the bike (in neutral) some where around 1500 - 2000 RPM and tell us the voltage readings.

If your not seeing 13.8 - 14.2 voltage, the battery will NOT charge while the engine is running.

IF you ARE finding voltages of 13.8 to 14.2 THEN POSSIBLY something is draining the battery OR the battery will NOT hold a charge (possible sulfated battery).

You can see if something is draining the battery while OFF by disconnecting the POSITIVE and placing an idiot light between the battery post and the positive wire you removed from the battery post.

As long as SOMETHING is drawing juice, the idiot light will be lit.
Find what is drawing power and you found what is drawing your battery down.

IF you hook up the idot light and it DOES NOT light, just to test the setup, turn ON anything that will draw power and the light should lite.

Chuck
 

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It sounds like to me that you are not charging the battery to a full charge. You need a battery maintainer whenever you are going to let the bike sit for long periods. 6 weeks will surely drain a battery.

Most new batteries that you get are NOT fully charged. Most dealers only add the acid to activate the battery but you will still need to fully charge it for it to maintain a high level charge. Riding a bike 10 miles will NOT fully charge a new battery either. Go ride it for at less 100 miles.

Again, whenever you are not riding the bike put it on a battery maintainer like a battery tender.

That should solve your problems.
 

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ALL new batteries (bike) should be charged at no more than 2 AMPS and at least for 24 hours, 36 is more like it, then if you do not ride the bike at leat 100 miles a week a battery tender should be placed on the bike, the clock and other settings on the bike draw enough curren to discharge on in a few days.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Battery

Thanks guys for the advise, I will surely try all of your tests and will let you know what I find out. I got a little side tracked the last couple of days but will be taking care of this over the next few days. Thanks again.:thumbup::bow:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
battery

:excited:OK guys here is what I found out. I took the positive cable off and put an idiot light in between the post and cable and found that there was no draw on the battery when turned off, so thats out. Next I put the old battery in to get it started and put my amp/volt meter on it and at first it read 13.85 and over the next minute or two it slowly rose to 14.60 and held there. So I took the new battery back to the dealer (A-1 Battery) and I also took my battery charger so they could test it too. I asked them if I could have damaged it by charging it on 10 amps for a few hours and finished it up on 2 amps and they said no, it was OK to charge this battery on 10 amps. They checked the charger and said it was OK and then checked the battery and said it was bad and it was not accepting a charge and would not hold a charge. They cheerfully gave me a new battery. I purchased this battery in January and there policy is if anything goes wrong with any of there motorcycle batteries they will replace it no questions asked within 6 months. I feel pretty good about this having tested about everything I could and talking it over with the battery dealer. They feel it was all the batteries fault and apologized.
:bow: Again thank you all for the advise. :bow:
 
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