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Discussion Starter #23
Well I must admit I need to learn how to read the Honda maintenance chart. Deputy Dawg said something about 24K miles and that should be the first fluid change. 8K and 16K miles are inspection points. So I wasn't overdue at all, matter of fact 14K miles early! The only problem I see not changing the fluid when specified is a buildup of suspended metal particles and I think that would cause accelerated wear beyond the change point if not done. More frequent changes certainly can't hurt anything, maybe even better for the seals/bearings/thrust washers.
 

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Notorious Rocket Scientist
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Agree but, we're talking a diff. here not fractioning hydrocarbons at a refinery.
I sure hope my Diff never gets that hot or seals are gonna fail!
It is a matter of both temperature AND TIME. You can cook a roast in the oven and you can cook a roast in a crockpot. The oven is hotter and takes less time while the crockpot is not as hot and takes longer. In both case the chemical transformation of the proteins in the meat are exactly the same in the end.

An analagous effect takes place in your oil. It does not have to be blazing hot to degrade your oil; it will just take longer at a lower temperature.
 

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http://www.frantzoil.com/newsletters/newsletter/4817708/50215.htm

In part:“Doesn’t Oil Wear Out or Break Down?” This is brought about
by myths, untrue stories, or mostly just by lack of
knowledge
of oil properties. My answer is always, “No, Oil
gets dirty but it does not wear out.” This fact is
substantiated by the U. S. Bureau of Standards, the Shell
Oil Company, the U. S. Air Force, and many others.

 

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Hey dawg, take your Wing out for a day in the country and when you park her in the garage wrap your hand around the rear drive housing. Go on, grab on tight and just hang on for dear life. What do you think?
 

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Never said it doesn't get hot-Just said it doesn't get hot enough to cause things that only go on at refineries.
Not arguing, just stating facts backed up with evidence not big words.
Nite all:lol:
 

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Notorious Rocket Scientist
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http://www.frantzoil.com/newsletters/newsletter/4817708/50215.htm

In part:“Doesn’t Oil Wear Out or Break Down?” This is brought about
by myths, untrue stories, or mostly just by lack of
knowledge
of oil properties. My answer is always, “No, Oil
gets dirty but it does not wear out.” This fact is
substantiated by the U. S. Bureau of Standards, the Shell
Oil Company, the U. S. Air Force, and many others.

Nice article, but his experiment doesn't address what we are discussing. It is a very convincing sounding paragraph when waved around completely out of context, though.

Look, if you want to believe in the existence of long organic molecules that never degrade with protracted exposure to moderate temperatures, be my guest. Myself, I'll keep changing them on a reasonable and regular schedule.

P.S. If I used any words that were too big for you, just ask and I'll gladly revise or explain them.
 

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Then we shall agree to disagree on oils wearing out!
I do change all fluids at reasonable intervals, usually consistant w/the vehicle manufactacturers schedules.
I certainly do need help with words at times. Thanks to the internet I can bring things into my limited abilities.
Nice that some of us can carry on debates without getting into personal debasing as it seems a lot of these threads turn into.
Have a nice day-Let's go wear out some tires:lol:
 

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So, if the oil (or grease) doesn't "wear out", why are you spending the extra $$$$$ for Amsoil? Changing more often to fresh dino products seems the best way to take the trash out of the engine/tranny/rear drive.
 

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So, if the oil (or grease) doesn't "wear out", why are you spending the extra $$$$$ for Amsoil? Changing more often to fresh dino products seems the best way to take the trash out of the engine/tranny/rear drive.
I'm not spending extra on Amsoil! Cost to me is lower than some other brands.
 

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SAE80 does not change density/thickness no matter how cold or hot it is outside. where 80-90W will change. This is good for some applications and not good for others. Not sure why but my truck calls for 90W-140 in the rear end and 80 only in the front end (4X4)
 

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Not quite accurate.

I "checked" mine just the other day at 108k and it's just like new. So needless to say no oil change. In general rear lube is a lifetime deal and only needs to be changed if the seals leaked.
It's sealed and oil never wears out. :thumbup:
That is not true. You should do whatever you want, supposedly it's still a free country, but oil absolutely DOES "wear out". The long hydrocarbon molecules are broken up by shearing forces generated by the hypoid gears and it eventually degrades in its lubricating qualities.

The old "never wears out" idea comes from assumptions made back in the 1920's before anybody actually understood lubricants and their limitations.

Also, the final drive is not sealed. It has a vent to allow it to "breathe" so that it doesn't build up internal pressure as the operating temp goes up while in operation. When it cools down while parked, it draws fresh air back in, along with humidity and other contaminates. By this venting process, the oil is very slowly oxidized (especially the non-synthetic types) and over the years, this also leads to degradation of its lubricating qualities.
 

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I change out my rear fluid the beginnng of every season...........Heck it only takes a few minutes to replace and it sure doesn't use much oil...........So why not start the season out with fresh everything!!! (and it makes me feel good deep within);););)

Ronnie
 
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