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Tested my spare FOB today. Battery was dead. Once the battery was replaced it worked. I had put a new battery in last June for my summer trip. I keep it switched off. So I’ll be carrying a spare battery with the FOB I guess.
Thats what happened to me 2 years past.
Left the battery out this last year, put in the FOB, worked just fine.
I surmised, that when the FOB is off, it is still pulling power from the CR2032 battery
Lesson learned.
 

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Fred posted the pages in the Owners Manual
-- that indicate the correct Bettery Type is CR2032
-- procedure to change the CR2032


All this writing about batteries... took the battery out of a friends FOB when the low batt warning showed in the dash. It had a 2025 battery in it. Put a 2025 back in it. Worked fine. Here someone said it is a 2032...
which one is the correct one? is 2018 different from 2021 and on? Incorrect batteries could cause all sorts of stuff..
2032 is the correct battery
 

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My spare works, although, for the second time, I had to replace the fob battery because the one in there was dead, the result of the fob's never being totally off. I now store the spare fob's battery outside the fob. This is NOT what Fred is reporting. Once the battery was replaced, the fob worked to start the motorcycle.
I had the exact same experience and also now store the extra fob and spare battery in a little zip lock bag in the pocket pouch in my top box.
 

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I also keep mine in the left saddlebag turned off. After Fred’s comment I had to go test it and it was fine.
I also keep a spare battery under the non locking storage lid. When the main fob battery dies I change all three.
I wondered if keeping a spare battery in the nonlocking storage which could get really hot in summer, would shorten the life of the battery. I went on a day trip in the heat of summer in Arizona and put myy smart phone in that storage and when I stopped to take a break and took my smart phone out, I felt it quite warm.
 

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In my case, the battery went from new to dead in only a few months. I'm thinking it's because I bought cheapo internet batteries. Some stuff it doesn't matter, and you're paying extra for a name-brand when the commodity is the same, but from now on it's only name-brand batterues for me.
One day I found at Costco a pack of 10 batteries for eight bucks so I bought it real quick. Always watch for battery discounted at Costco.
 

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Here ya go.

*MicroBattery Pro-Tip (Understanding Lithium Coin Batteries): Lithium coin cell batteries are usually designated with a CR followed by a set of numbers. The C in CR lets you know the battery uses a lithium chemistry. The R lets you know that the battery is round in shape. The first two numbers let you know the diameter of the battery and the last two numbers tell you the height. So by following this, you can easily see that a CR2032 battery is a (C) lithium chemistry battery with a (R) round shape that has a diameter of (20) 20 millimeters and a height of (32) 3.2 millimeters. This applies to the majority of coin and button cell batteries but note there are some exceptions, like the CR2 or CR123A batteries which are considered lithium cylindrical batteries.
Are you sure 20 means 20 mm, not 2.0 mm? 20 mm is equal to 2 cm, which is quite thick. For 17 years I lived with metric system but that was 47 years ago.
 

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I wondered if keeping a spare battery in the nonlocking storage which could get really hot in summer, would shorten the life of the battery. I went on a day trip in the heat of summer in Arizona and put myy smart phone in that storage and when I stopped to take a break and took my smart phone out, I felt it quite warm.
Certainly possible.
 

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I use the second fob I purchased for my 18 most of the time but this thread reminded me to use the original I store on the bike fob too. No battery problems.
.
 

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Just checked my spare FOB, which has been sitting turned off on top of the kitchen refrigerator for 2 years. The spare FOB and the bike seem to be communicating just fine.
 

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I have a 2018 DCT. I searched "for ever" until I found this thread. I have this same problem. Haven't used my original FOB for about 4 months, and found today it didn't work at all. Opened it up, removed battery, shorted its internal connections to eliminate all residual voltage and then installed the new battery after checking voltages. Old battery was 2.954v., and new battery was about 3.25v. Turned off the FOB I've been using lately, turned on my second FOB, and nothing. When I tried to turn on the ignition switch, the FOB blinked rapidly three times, but the bike: NOTHING.

Stay tuned...
 

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So: trying a couple things here. Already tried dealing with the FOB battery and etc. Now I tried entering the emergency start code manually. Trunk lid and right saddle bag open, entered all 9 numbers...
1. First I tried the original code that came with the bike when new.
---- It works fine and the bike can be started with no keys present.
2. Next I tried the code for my spare key, the one that hasn't been used for 4 months.
---- It does not work. Bike beeps at me three times after each failed attempt: I tried it twice.
3. I'm reading in this thread that I need to re-PAIR the key to the bike. Getting ready to try that.

Stay tuned...
 

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This picture is the info I put together back in the summer to pair a new (third) key. I posted it on the forum. Ha, that key is fine: it's my other key that's the problem. Actually, bought a second key from Honda, programmed it to bike (worked fine) and then put it away for a back up. Then dummy here lost the original key. I bought a third key and programmed it in. That's the one I use all the time. The second key, bought a year ago, hasn't been used since May. It's the problem. First key of course: lost.
 

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It worked. To eliminate some confusion, I'll add a couple things below. This is what I did to re-PAIR my old key which I haven't used for about 4 months, maybe more:

1. With bike off and using my good FOB, open the trunk and both saddlebags. Remove left side cover, pull out plug from its clip inside the cover, remove dummy plug from female portion of plug, and get the jumper ready to plug into it.
2. Then I turned off the FOB.
3. Turned on my dysfunctional FOB (as noted above, key used to work fine, but not used in 4 months: didn't work).
4. Use emergency code to turn ignition on
5. Within 15 seconds, plug jumper in. Immediately I hear a repeating beeping sound
6. Press left saddlebag button (normally used to open saddlebag) one time.
7. Beeping sound changes indicating procedure is working: you'll hear this clearly.
8. Turn new FOB off
9. Disconnect jumper
10. Turn ignition off
11. Plug in dummy plug and clip the plug assembly back into place on the bike.
12. Reinstall left side cover, close both saddle bags and trunk
 
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