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Discussion Starter #1
I have never used jumper cables to start a bike, I've always owned smaller bikes that I could bump start (I don't want to start a thread about bump starting a fuel injected GL or volt meters-I'm just interested in learning about using jumper cables). I thought I'd better ask these questions just in case I have a problem some day. On the GL1800:
Do you have to jump from a similar sized bike.
Can you jump from a car if your stuck?
Could you use car jumper cables in a pinch?
Any tips?
Thanks,
Pat
 

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You can jump start from a lawn mower to an airplane and everything in-between as long as the battery voltages are the same. Just make sure you connect the the battery terminals positive to positive (+) and negative to negative (-).
Ride Safe
Ken
 

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Anything with a 12 volt positive system will work. Hook up the positive to the positive post and hook the negative to the frame or engine. That's to keep the sparks away from the battery gases. Doesn't matter if the jumping engine is running or not, the starter will only pull the current it can from the 12 volt jumper based on it's internal resistance. (I)current=(V)battery voltage/(R)resistance of the starter windings. :D
 

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When I had a battery problem I found that it is difficult to get a good connection to the bike battery with the clamps on normal automotive jumper cables.
I bought a set of motorcycle jumper cables with smaller clamps,but so far haven't had to use them!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for your tips. I hope I never need to use any of them if you know what I mean :wink:
 

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on making your own jumper cables for m/c use,what gauge size wire would be ok and what lenght should be ok.
the longer the wire it increases the resistance

ride safe
edmund
 

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8 would be fine and I wouldn't go more than 6-8 feet just because they will take up alot of space on the bike. The resistance isn't going to be an issue as long as your ends are mechanically and electrically sound. :D
 

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Jumper Wires

I made up a set of jumper cables. An easy trip to Home Depot to get 10 feet of #10 wire, one each red and black and corresponding color clips with rubber boots over the clips. #10 wire is rated for 20 amps continuous and I expect it will draw 40+ for a few seconds without any undue effects. Put them together with electrical tape every foot or so just to keep the wires from tangling. They fit in the bottom of the trunk without taking up any room. Murphy’s corollary has prevailed, when you’re prepared – problems stay away – unlike the first time I left the lights on, prompting the desire to carry jumpers.
 

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Re: Jumper Wires

12 awg is rated for 20 amps. 10 awg is rated for 30 amps., and depending on just how long you overload them, they will each carry a hell of a lot more amps.<G> just before everything goes up in smoke.


John Donohue said:
I made up a set of jumper cables. An easy trip to Home Depot to get 10 feet of #10 wire, one each red and black and corresponding color clips with rubber boots over the clips. #10 wire is rated for 20 amps continuous and I expect it will draw 40+ for a few seconds without any undue effects. Put them together with electrical tape every foot or so just to keep the wires from tangling. They fit in the bottom of the trunk without taking up any room. Murphy’s corollary has prevailed, when you’re prepared – problems stay away – unlike the first time I left the lights on, prompting the desire to carry jumpers.
 

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techdude2000 said:
.... Doesn't matter if the jumping engine is running or not, the starter will only pull the current it can from the 12 volt jumper based on it's internal resistance. ...
But, that's not the point...

A robust car battery plus its running alternator can dump too much current into a discharged m/c battery, thereby ruining it. When jumping a m/c battery from a car battery it's much safer to not have the car engine running.

Besides, if a car battery won't start your Wing all by itself, perhaps the car has battery problems of its own. :wink:
 

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All Boots No Saddle said:
techdude2000 said:
.... Doesn't matter if the jumping engine is running or not, the starter will only pull the current it can from the 12 volt jumper based on it's internal resistance. ...
But, that's not the point...

A robust car battery plus its running alternator can dump too much current into a discharged m/c battery, thereby ruining it. When jumping a m/c battery from a car battery it's much safer to not have the car engine running.

Besides, if a car battery won't start your Wing all by itself, perhaps the car has battery problems of its own. :wink:
Maybe, sounds good, but I've never seen it happen in 30 years of motorcycling.
 

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techdude2000 said:
All Boots No Saddle said:
techdude2000 said:
.... Doesn't matter if the jumping engine is running or not, the starter will only pull the current it can from the 12 volt jumper based on it's internal resistance. ...
But, that's not the point...

A robust car battery plus its running alternator can dump too much current into a discharged m/c battery, thereby ruining it. When jumping a m/c battery from a car battery it's much safer to not have the car engine running.

Besides, if a car battery won't start your Wing all by itself, perhaps the car has battery problems of its own. :wink:
Maybe, sounds good, but I've never seen it happen in 30 years of motorcycling.
I havent either but what does it hurt to try with the car not running first (that is how I have done it) I like to be as gentle on my electrics as possible.....chuck
 

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Jumping a bike from .....

Someone told me long ago that the amps from a car alternator will fry some component in the charging system on the bike. I no longer believe this to be true any more. My rule is this. If what I am using to jump the bike has a bigger battery than the bike, I don’t crank the host vehicle. If I was jumping a GL1800 from a little scooter, you betcha, the scooter will be running with everything connected for a few minutes before I try cranking. Jumping a scooter from a Prius… verify a 12-14 volt source (in case they use higher voltages in its electric drive system) and leave the engine/key on the Prius off, I shouldn’t need the charging power they are capable of to crank the smaller vehicle.

But, there are exceptions……. If leaving the host engine off is not cranking the bike because the voltage is dropping below the ECM “run” level (typically 9.5 volts) running the starter, crank the host vehicle and let it run a bit hooked up. You are battling a dead cell in the bike and you have to overcome that loss of 2 volts with charging the other cells before you will be able to get it running. After you get it cranked, your next stop is where you can get a new battery. I have seen this one first hand with 13 volts read with everything hooked up (and host running) but dropped to 8.9 as soon as the starter button was pushed. The bike cranked after it sat charging for five minutes from the truck. That time, voltage only dropped to 10.5 while running the starter.
 

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The short answer is yes and yes. You don't even hve to start the car. I got a set of bike cables at wally world a few years back. Came in their own little pouch, rolls up about the size of my fist. Used 'em a lot as my 1500's battery got older.. ;)
 
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