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Discussion Starter #1

:shock: Gross weight capacity 1060 lbs.
Bed size: 40in. W x 48in. L
Overall 55in. W x 78in. L
146lbs. empty
Includes:
1 7/8in. coupler assembly
Safety chains
Approved lighting
Wiring
Connector
Tail and turn signals
Side running lights
High-speed wheels with 12in. tires
Slipper springs


My new pull behind trailer: Does anybody see any problem going this route as far as functionality?

I cover it with exterior painted plywood and strap down my plastic totes. I’ve plenty of those as I got in the habit of using 30 gallon totes in the bed of my truck for camping. You bungee down the lids and then you’ve a rain tight tote. If it rains while camping and you’re forced to pack a wet tent you just put all the wet stuff in one and dry in the other.

I won’t be using it much, so I can’t justify buying more than I need as far as a fancy $$$$ trailer. Plus, if I just use those big plastic bins then I don’t have to unpack a trunk every time we stop for the nite. I’ll just grab the bins and tote ‘em into the hotel or camp area.

Don’t call me *******. I prefer ghetto.
Seriously though, I’m all about function over form. Will this work?
 

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Sounds like a pretty basic set up. I don't see why it wouldn't work as long as you distribute the weight properly and tie them down securely. You wouldn't want them shiftng or bouncing on the bed of the trailer.
I would also consider shortening the width of the trailer.
 

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Should work great... And there is lots of info out there on
building these little gems. Lots of people use a Sear Car-top carrier for a box...

If you don't put on a box, and use the totes. I would recomend some
(maybe) 12" removeable side walls, then you dont have to worry about them sliding out sideways. (you could tarp the whole think like a covered wagon).
You could even go for the 'steak side' look.

I would also paint the bottom of the deck with something like bed liner, it will add a little weight, but will keep the rocks from causeing chips and letting in the water (to the wood).


one other tip... Move the tounge forward (longer) will make it track much better. You'll understand what I mean when you read the assembly instructions.
 

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Looks pretty cheap to me. I would go at least the piggyback style. Put a light metal bottom and car type carrier on it.

I can see your storage boxes bouncing down the road.
 

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I have the same trailer. I put treated plywood for a deck. I then had an old car top carrier that I bolted down. Then covered it all with Rino bed lining. Pulled great behind my BMW. I have not yet had time to mount the hitch on the new wing. But with all that extra power it should pull even better. Supper light.
Richard
 

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Built one like that 22 years ago to pull behind my 84 GL1200. I used 3/4" marine grade plywood for the deck. I covered it with indoor/outdoor carpeting. I used a sears cartop carrier for the box (19 or 20 cu. ft.). It attached with four bolts to fasteners I embedded into the underside of the deck. The cartop carrier could be removed in a couple of minutes and I could use it as a flat bed trailer. I had pulled this with a Honda 3 wheeler on it taking it to the off road riding areas near Chula Vista, CA. After the first 500 mile run I made a couple of changes, I narrowed the whole trailer 9" so that it was narrower than the mirrors of the Wing. I also moved the axle back about 3" to improve the tracking characteristics. I used this with both my GL1200 and GL1500.
 

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I am going to look into narrowing my trailer also. I like that idea. was it very difficult to do. I like the tracking on this one but narrower would be better. Thanks
 
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