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Warmed up here in GA this afternoon so I went for a 60 mile ride. Stopped about 5 miles from home for fuel and side pocket for gas door release wouldn't open. So I decided to just go on home. Bike was DEAD. NOTHING. NO RESPONSE when turning on ignition. Everything black. Called my wife and she brought my tools & jumper cables. Voltage 12.5. Tried Ignition several times, then after about 10 minutes, it works and everything boots up. I push start button and it all blacks out again and it's Dead again. Sounds like battery is not putting out enough to fire it up, even though it shows 12.5V, so I hook up jumper cables, everything comes on and it starts. Then I check voltage and it's [email protected] idle. Drove it home and everything is functioning perfectly. I think it was a concidence that it started with the cables. It was exhibiting all the signs of the keyless fob being too far from the bike. But it was in my pocket. I'm stumped. Now I'm wondering if this will happen again. And next time, will I be so lucky to be close to home? Fob battery is ok, but I may change it just in case. Any suggestions? Anyone had this problem?
 

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with the key in the coat pocket, did it accidentally get turned off? Also read up on the key function routine procedure. and read up on the fob off and on items
 

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Just for funzzies, take your battery cables loose and clean then VERY good then reconnect. Everything with the CanBus wiring is very sensitive to voltage. Been there done that on my last 2 bikes.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I think you may be correct. The fob was in my pants pocket, a bit tight in some positions. It must have been turned off. That didn't dawn on me. I'll check that first if it ever happens again. Thanks for the suggestion.
 

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The fob is easy to shut 'off' accidentally.

(It's also easy to check)


When 'off', the proximity part doesn't work, but the buttons for remote unlock or horn beep etc will still work. (don't push the Horn answer back button unless you want to hear a very LOUD horn. Pushing the unlock button will also flash lights to confirm the message was recieved -- side note; it will relock in about 30 seconds, or about 30 seconds after a compartment that is opened gets reclosed)


pg 56:
To Switch the Honda SMART Key System to Activation or Deactivation
Press and hold the ON/OFF button for more than 1 second.


To Check the Honda SMART Key System Status
Press the ON/OFF button for less than 1 second.
The LED of the Honda SMART Key will show the status.

When the LED of the Honda SMART Key:

Blinks 3 times: (activation) Honda SMART Key system authentication can be performed.
(--- meaning fob proximity function is on)

Lights briefly: (deactivation) Honda SMART Key system authentication can not be performed.
(--- meaning fob proximity function is off)
 

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Love The DCT
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with the key in the coat pocket, did it accidentally get turned off? Also read up on the key function routine procedure. and read up on the fob off and on items
If the fob would have accidentally turned off, he would not have been able to jump start the bike by jumping the battery, turning on the ignition, and starting the bike.

If the fob was accidentally bumped off while riding, the bike is going to continue to run. The smart key indicator is going to flash because communication has been lost between the bike and the fob. I did not see anything in the post about the smart key indicator coming on and flashing.


:doorag:
 

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Actually, after a 9000 mile trip with everything about the bike functioning flawlessly, my DCT was parked for three days. On the fourth day the ignition was turned on and all appeared to be fine until the starter was activated. It would try to crank but no joy. Voltage was where it was suppose to be. The battery was removed and taken to the dealership for testing. Again the voltage was good but the cranking amps were 10% of what they needed to be. Cranking amps were the culprit here. The testing device indicated that the battery was bad and needed to be replaced. Since it was only five months old I was given a new battery under warranty. The only explanation was that one or more of the cells had some type of a failure. I was also informed that with this type of battery and a failure like this occurs it's ... one day it's good the next day it's not. In other words it looses cranking amps quickly.
 

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It could simply be a bad battery on the bike, however some gas stations (Mobil) use a SpeedPass system and I've seen them interfere with key fob communications. If you were parked next to the pumps at a station that uses a system like this, it could have been an interference problem. You may also want to check the battery in your key fob, it could be the culprit.
 

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Love The DCT
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Warmed up here in GA this afternoon so I went for a 60 mile ride. Stopped about 5 miles from home for fuel and side pocket for gas door release wouldn't open. So I decided to just go on home. Bike was DEAD. NOTHING. NO RESPONSE when turning on ignition. Everything black. Called my wife and she brought my tools & jumper cables. Voltage 12.5. Tried Ignition several times, then after about 10 minutes, it works and everything boots up. I push start button and it all blacks out again and it's Dead again. Sounds like battery is not putting out enough to fire it up, even though it shows 12.5V, so I hook up jumper cables, everything comes on and it starts. Then I check voltage and it's [email protected] idle. Drove it home and everything is functioning perfectly. I think it was a concidence that it started with the cables. It was exhibiting all the signs of the keyless fob being too far from the bike. But it was in my pocket. I'm stumped. Now I'm wondering if this will happen again. And next time, will I be so lucky to be close to home? Fob battery is ok, but I may change it just in case. Any suggestions? Anyone had this problem?
You metentioned the fob battery is ok. Do you recall if you ever saw the smart key indicator come on with a nearly depleted battery symbol off to the left side of the key as shown on page 27 of the owner’s manual?

Take the bike back to the dealer and have the bike’s battery load tested.

:doorag:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Little more detail

This morning everything is functioning properly. However, I checked my battery cable bolts and the positive terminal bolt was not very tight. Perhaps this was the problem and hooking jumpers to the battery restored the connection. ??? Thanks for the input each of you have offered.
 

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This morning everything is functioning properly. However, I checked my battery cable bolts and the positive terminal bolt was not very tight. Perhaps this was the problem and hooking jumpers to the battery restored the connection. ??? Thanks for the input each of you have offered.

That sounds like the problem, Ive seen it before.:serious:
Every time I have the side cover off, I check the cables for tightness.
Does the dealer install the battery as part of the dealer prep process?
 

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If they were even a tad loose you need to disconnect them, shine up all connectors with steel wool or a small file then reconnect. When they are loose corrosion forms between them even though continuity is still present.
 

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Love The DCT
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That sounds like the problem, Ive seen it before.:serious:
Every time I have the side cover off, I check the cables for tightness.
Does the dealer install the battery as part of the dealer prep process?
Batteries are in the bikes when they are shipped. However, they are disconnected. Battery cables are connected during the PDI/setup.

:doorag:
 

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Batteries are in the bikes when they are shipped. However, they are disconnected. Battery cables are connected during the PDI/setup.

:doorag:

Thanks murf, I knew you would chime in with your expertise. :smile2:
I kinda thought that but I wasn't sure.:grin2:
 

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Thanks murf, I knew you would chime in with your expertise. :smile2:
I kinda thought that but I wasn't sure.:grin2:
You’re welcome!

For shipping, the terminal end of the negative cable were it attaches to the battery is completely wrapped in insulating tape and is moved away from the negative terminal of the battery.

The positive battery cable end is not wrapped in insulating tape.

:doorag:
 

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There seems to be a lot of posts about bikes not starting...and it appears that the culprit is either loose battery cables or a per-mature dead battery....now I would be the first to say that the percentage is small regarding these occurrences but I am wondering if the cost of a good battery would be worth it to just change out the OEM battery so that you never experience a bad cell failure...piece of mind I would say....don't know...I am one that only replaces his battery only after I have blown on it, kicked it, swore at it and then jumped up and down on the bike looking for the kick start...but I might be re-thinking this approach....Thoughts.....


Question...I have a brand new Yusa battery that I never put in my 2014 bike this past summer when I traded it in for the 2018....would that same battery work in the 2018's...?
 

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There seems to be a lot of posts about bikes not starting...and it appears that the culprit is either loose battery cables or a per-mature dead battery....now I would be the first to say that the percentage is small regarding these occurrences but I am wondering if the cost of a good battery would be worth it to just change out the OEM battery so that you never experience a bad cell failure...piece of mind I would say....don't know...I am one that only replaces his battery only after I have blown on it, kicked it, swore at it and then jumped up and down on the bike looking for the kick start...but I might be re-thinking this approach....Thoughts.....


Question...I have a brand new Yusa battery that I never put in my 2014 bike this past summer when I traded it in for the 2018....would that same battery work in the 2018's...?
2018 uses the same Yuasa as 2017...and same as your 2014

GYZ20L has been the factory installed battery since Yuasa released it.


If you have a Yuasa with bottle supplied acid, it's likely the YTX20L-BS

(The -BS indicates 'Bottle Supplied')

Before Yuasa released the GYZ series of batteries, the Honda supplied battery was the YTX20L -- so the YTX20L-BS was/is a natural replacement for the factory filled version.
 
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