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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Last week after assuming my clairvoyant skills were better than they were, I bought and unnecessarily replaced the perfectly good ECM on my ‘01. Only a few miles later, as the 5k+ Florida trip commenced, the dreaded 26, left knock sensor code was back and i would have to stare at the red glowing FI (which does NOT mean fuel injection or F1 as in your buike is now a race car) fault indicator light for the next 2200 miles until I could really diagnose the issue.

When the left to right KS R/L swap diagnosis began, the left KS was actually broken in two and half was dangling by the wire.

IF you need a KS and it happens on a weekend, in the middle of a trip, here’s a trick.

Knock sensor, Honda motorcycle lists the part number 30530-PRC-003 (Partzilla’s price comes up as $170+) A bit of further investigation will reveal that that part number has been superseded by part #30530-PNA-A01. Another Honda MC crossover number happens to be a 30530-P5M-013.

Running these numbers’ applications, you discover that Honda automotive=ve division also used this KS on it’s 2006-2009 2.2L S2000, or Acura CSX as well as the Honda Civic with a 2.0. Surprisingly, it was even used in a 1999 2.3l Isuzu Oasis.

Armed with these part numbers and applications, I approached the local Carquest parts guy (after several arguments, inaccurate crossover issues and accompanying futile attempts)he came up with an SBA3667 that was a perfect match. $32 off his shelf vs Honda’s over $200 list price and 10 ady-2 week wait. It was installed that morning and now has over 3k miles on it without a light or a problem.

Apon further investigation, and google “shopping” searches, the exact same sensor can be ordered from WAL-MART for under $10. Amazon Prime can have it next day for $16.

SO, if you have a VALID KS/25/26 FI code, do NOT let Honda sell you an overpriced and ridiculously expensive KS. For this price, I wouldn’t even go through the swap, I’d just get one and replace the indicated KS.

One word of caution. When trying out his crossover/book skills, the parts guy came up with a several 30530-XXX-XXX units that had a round wire connector. This one has a square-ish connector. MOST automotive units with the 30530 are the right ones.

Walmarts part #s include SU4771, SU10549, KS5028 but all these can be found with a 30530-P5M-013 search
Beck/Arnley part# is 158-0812
Car Quest is SBA3667
Duralast is SU4780
optional Honda #’s:
30530-PRC-003
30530-P5M-013
30530-PNA-A01 current Goldwing designation, and seemingly the best Google search or OEM MC number.

Hope that helps someone!

Diagnose THEN order parts!
Gas Audio equipment Cylinder Metal Auto part
 

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It's amazing on how much money is made by ripping off the general public :unsure:...............Thanks for posting

Ronnie
 

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There was a similar post a couple of year ago. In that one, after all the cross-overing, he showed his new one and it had a different color plastic. I have no way of knowing for sure, but would guess that the color brown, as used on 5th gen Wings, has meaning. Often things these days are color coded.

As for finding a broken sensor, that can happen when an engine gets pulled, and a knock sensor does not get disconnect. I had a customer who pulled his engine, then brought me everythig to fix his ADG, and reinstall the motor. After he'd picked it up, a couple of months later he was getting code 26. In his case, when he pulled the engine, he did the same, but his wire to the knock sensor was broke internally. It took him months to figure that out.
 

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Apon further investigation, and google “shopping” searches, the exact same sensor can be ordered from WAL-MART for under $10. Amazon Prime can have it next day for $16.

SO, if you have a VALID KS/25/26 FI code, do NOT let Honda sell you an overpriced and ridiculously expensive KS. For this price, I wouldn’t even go through the swap, I’d just get one and replace the indicated KS.

One word of caution. When trying out his crossover/book skills, the parts guy came up with a several 30530-XXX-XXX units that had a round wire connector. This one has a square-ish connector. MOST automotive units with the 30530 are the right ones.

Walmarts part #s include SU4771, SU10549, KS5028 but all these can be found with a 30530-P5M-013 search
Beck/Arnley part# is 158-0812
Car Quest is SBA3667
Duralast is SU4780
optional Honda #’s:
30530-PRC-003
30530-P5M-013
30530-PNA-A01 current Goldwing designation, and seemingly the best Google search or OEM MC number.

Hope that helps someone!

Diagnose THEN order parts!
View attachment 389616

Thank you for posting this information. (y)
 

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IronMan
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Last week after assuming my clairvoyant skills were better than they were, I bought and unnecessarily replaced the perfectly good ECM on my ‘01. Only a few miles later, as the 5k+ Florida trip commenced, the dreaded 26, left knock sensor code was back and i would have to stare at the red glowing FI (which does NOT mean fuel injection or F1 as in your buike is now a race car) fault indicator light for the next 2200 miles until I could really diagnose the issue.

When the left to right KS R/L swap diagnosis began, the left KS was actually broken in two and half was dangling by the wire.

IF you need a KS and it happens on a weekend, in the middle of a trip, here’s a trick.

Knock sensor, Honda motorcycle lists the part number 30530-PRC-003 (Partzilla’s price comes up as $170+) A bit of further investigation will reveal that that part number has been superseded by part #30530-PNA-A01. Another Honda MC crossover number happens to be a 30530-P5M-013.

Running these numbers’ applications, you discover that Honda automotive=ve division also used this KS on it’s 2006-2009 2.2L S2000, or Acura CSX as well as the Honda Civic with a 2.0. Surprisingly, it was even used in a 1999 2.3l Isuzu Oasis.

Armed with these part numbers and applications, I approached the local Carquest parts guy (after several arguments, inaccurate crossover issues and accompanying futile attempts)he came up with an SBA3667 that was a perfect match. $32 off his shelf vs Honda’s over $200 list price and 10 ady-2 week wait. It was installed that morning and now has over 3k miles on it without a light or a problem.

Apon further investigation, and google “shopping” searches, the exact same sensor can be ordered from WAL-MART for under $10. Amazon Prime can have it next day for $16.

SO, if you have a VALID KS/25/26 FI code, do NOT let Honda sell you an overpriced and ridiculously expensive KS. For this price, I wouldn’t even go through the swap, I’d just get one and replace the indicated KS.

One word of caution. When trying out his crossover/book skills, the parts guy came up with a several 30530-XXX-XXX units that had a round wire connector. This one has a square-ish connector. MOST automotive units with the 30530 are the right ones.

Walmarts part #s include SU4771, SU10549, KS5028 but all these can be found with a 30530-P5M-013 search
Beck/Arnley part# is 158-0812
Car Quest is SBA3667
Duralast is SU4780
optional Honda #’s:
30530-PRC-003
30530-P5M-013
30530-PNA-A01 current Goldwing designation, and seemingly the best Google search or OEM MC number.

Hope that helps someone!

Diagnose THEN order parts!
View attachment 389616
Last week after assuming my clairvoyant skills were better than they were, I bought and unnecessarily replaced the perfectly good ECM on my ‘01. Only a few miles later, as the 5k+ Florida trip commenced, the dreaded 26, left knock sensor code was back and i would have to stare at the red glowing FI (which does NOT mean fuel injection or F1 as in your buike is now a race car) fault indicator light for the next 2200 miles until I could really diagnose the issue.

When the left to right KS R/L swap diagnosis began, the left KS was actually broken in two and half was dangling by the wire.

IF you need a KS and it happens on a weekend, in the middle of a trip, here’s a trick.

Knock sensor, Honda motorcycle lists the part number 30530-PRC-003 (Partzilla’s price comes up as $170+) A bit of further investigation will reveal that that part number has been superseded by part #30530-PNA-A01. Another Honda MC crossover number happens to be a 30530-P5M-013.

Running these numbers’ applications, you discover that Honda automotive=ve division also used this KS on it’s 2006-2009 2.2L S2000, or Acura CSX as well as the Honda Civic with a 2.0. Surprisingly, it was even used in a 1999 2.3l Isuzu Oasis.

Armed with these part numbers and applications, I approached the local Carquest parts guy (after several arguments, inaccurate crossover issues and accompanying futile attempts)he came up with an SBA3667 that was a perfect match. $32 off his shelf vs Honda’s over $200 list price and 10 ady-2 week wait. It was installed that morning and now has over 3k miles on it without a light or a problem.

Apon further investigation, and google “shopping” searches, the exact same sensor can be ordered from WAL-MART for under $10. Amazon Prime can have it next day for $16.

SO, if you have a VALID KS/25/26 FI code, do NOT let Honda sell you an overpriced and ridiculously expensive KS. For this price, I wouldn’t even go through the swap, I’d just get one and replace the indicated KS.

One word of caution. When trying out his crossover/book skills, the parts guy came up with a several 30530-XXX-XXX units that had a round wire connector. This one has a square-ish connector. MOST automotive units with the 30530 are the right ones.

Walmarts part #s include SU4771, SU10549, KS5028 but all these can be found with a 30530-P5M-013 search
Beck/Arnley part# is 158-0812
Car Quest is SBA3667
Duralast is SU4780
optional Honda #’s:
30530-PRC-003
30530-P5M-013
30530-PNA-A01 current Goldwing designation, and seemingly the best Google search or OEM MC number.

Hope that helps someone!

Diagnose THEN order parts!
View attachment 389616
Common man. So your telling “ us” you screwed up and got a crossover book and didn’t do the rest of the bike🤔🤨😳😏😂😂. Not counting the $ but just being able to something off the shelf or in couple days is great. Thanks for doing “our” homework on this one 😐👌
 
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