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I'm glacially slow, Pappy. It would take me a minimum half an hour--probably more--just to get the multiple pieces of tupperware off, parts and fasteners labelled, and organized for reinstall. If you go ahead with this purchase and install, I'll be curious to know how long the intitiall install takes, counting prepping and cleaning the bike, getting the tools ready, doing the install, reinstalling the tupperware, and putting the tools away. If you can do it in 20 minutes. I'll be forever impressed.
Clean the bike before install? Why? :p "Prepping" only requires gathering a couple of tools and popping it up on the centerstand so that's not really something I'd count.

Everyone's different in this regard but however long it takes to do the initial install will vary since some people are more meticulous than others. I'm not and overall this seems like a really elementary mechanical job. I'm not going to break out a stopwatch but I see the initial installation as a 30-minute job overall, maybe 45 if I'm having a cup of coffee in the process, but that's only once.

I watched the video again and took notes:
  • For the initial install one needs a 5mm and maybe 6mm Allen wrench, an 8mm socket, a 12mm socket, and a 4mm and 6mm Allen socket. That's six tools you need just once.
  • I timed the video for just the plate installation, which it the only thing you need to do going forward. He started at 8:30 and finished it at 11:32. That's three minutes on and presumably the same off, so the plate will add only six minutes to an oil change and needs only one tool (looks like a 4mm Allen socket?), that's it.
  • The plate uses seven screws, four front and three rear. You could leave off three of those and save maybe a minute overall.
Claiming the plate will add an undue burden to an oil change sounds a little hyperbolic to me. A lot of folks will spend days turning their bikes into rolling Christmas trees. This task about as strait forward as they come.

But what about the question of value? That depends on each person's perception of risk. I know it sounds like I'm shilling for this thing, I'm not. I have my doubts. For instance, if that forward mount bracket gets hit (which is extremely unlikely I admit) all that load would be channeled into the front engine case flange through those two bolts. It wasn't designed for this and would result in exactly the same issues the plate was designed to prevent. Also, does the engine case need airflow for cooling in very hot climates? I don't know and I'll bet they don't either.

If i decide I need to up-armor the engine, this will be the one I buy because I think it's the best design we have so far that does the job. I just not convinced I need it yet.
 

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Looks like a easy job to do the initial install...looks even easier to remove the plate for oil changes...looks like some nice insurance against any engine damage from a road hazard.
 

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2018 DCT Airbag
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The plate is bolted to the engine via the brackets. Wonder how it would take a hit from like a high speed bump transfering the impact to the engine cases?

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Yes, that might damage the engine case, which makes the whole exercise counter-productive. Also, it slightly decreases ground clearance.
 

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As opposed to the bottom of the engine taking the hit directly?
Yes, that might damage the engine case, which makes the whole exercise counter-productive. Also, it slightly decreases ground clearance.
Well, it seems they could have built in some give or deflection ability in the brackets. It looks this plate will have lowered the ground clearance and will deliver a bottom impact direct to the 4 engine bolts. In the ADV world most skid plates bolt to the bike frame and have give. Ones that bolt to the engine break the cases.

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Well, it seems they could have built in some give or deflection ability in the brackets. It looks this plate will have lowered the ground clearance and will deliver a bottom impact direct to the 4 engine bolts. In the ADV world most skid plates bolt to the bike frame and have give. Ones that bolt to the engine break the cases.
In the ADV world, bikes have more ground clearance, too. The skid plate I had on my VStrom had no give or flex at all. It was ridiculously heavy for what it was. There was more space between it and the bottom of the engine, but, as I said, it also had more ground clearance.
 

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I can't imagine how you could hit a road hazard that was solid enough to break any engine mounts with this engine guard...if you did hit something solid... like a concrete curb... the engine cases would be totaled anyways without this engine guard...this engine guard is to deflect any road hazard that you might hit on the road that would flip up and hit the shifter shalf casing on the bottom front of the engine..or the oil filter...thats the whole point of this engine guard.
 

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Really this whole topic could be compared to the "buy the extended warranty or not" argument. Also where do you stop when worrying about road hazards that can damage the bike? What about the tupperware? headlights? brake lines?

I'm in the camp you have to assume there is some risk when riding, does this alleviate some of that risk, sure but like I said where to stop worrying about it
 

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Well, it seems they could have built in some give or deflection ability in the brackets. It looks this plate will have lowered the ground clearance and will deliver a bottom impact direct to the 4 engine bolts. In the ADV world most skid plates bolt to the bike frame and have give. Ones that bolt to the engine break the cases.

Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk
That begs the question, why isn't this plate for the GW mounted to the frame? I haven't looked underneath the bike that much to see what would stop you from doing that.
 

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2020 Tour Manual, 2018 Royal Enfield Himalayan
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Deflect or absorb? I know some folks with ADV bikes that prefer engine guards that "bend" or absorb a fall instead of being so rigid they affect the frame if the rider goes down. So with Max's belly pan, do we want something so rigid it could transmit the force sufficiently to damage the engine, or do we want something to absorb the hit with the belly pan being sacrificed?

btw: I do want the pan and I'm just tossing this out there for opinions.
 

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Aloha,
Where the heck are you guys riding your bikes anyway?😳
We are talking belly pans/engine case guards for the 2018 and up GW’s that protects the bottom engine cases from road debris right?
They are street touring bikes with an occasional gravel or dirt road thrown in here and there.
IMHO we’re getting carried away with ADV bike comparisons.
If you’re riding your GW where an ADV bike skid plate is needed, you made a wrong turn somewhere or you’re using the stock Honda GPS. 🤣
Personally, I wouldn’t want to mess with the aluminum frames on the GW.
If you hit the kind of stuff that rips the ECG off and breaks the engine cases, that would be the least of your worries.
You’ll have bigger problems than that.
If you think one of the two EGC offerings will work for you, buy it.
If not, don’t buy it.
Your bike and your choice.
We are way over the line with the “what ifs” IMHO.😎
 

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Well, it seems they could have built in some give or deflection ability in the brackets. It looks this plate will have lowered the ground clearance and will deliver a bottom impact direct to the 4 engine bolts. In the ADV world most skid plates bolt to the bike frame and have give. Ones that bolt to the engine break the cases.

Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk
Speaking for myself only, I can only think of one possible 'hit' that could affect my bike based on Max's design. That being a very tall speedbump that I hit way too fast. I picture doing that and then bottoming out on the top of the speed bump right onto the plate. I have no doubt the plate couldn't take it, but the mounting bolts to the engine I not so sure. Of course, you would have to hit pretty hard which I have no intention of doing.

Regardless, I am on the list for one and will be getting it! Yet another "out of the park hit" for Max!
 

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Aloha,
Where the heck are you guys riding your bikes anyway?😳
We are talking belly pans/engine case guards for the 2018 and up GW’s that protects the bottom engine cases from road debris right?
They are street touring bikes with an occasional gravel or dirt road thrown in here and there.
IMHO we’re getting carried away with ADV bike comparisons.
If you’re riding your GW where an ADV bike skid plate is needed, you made a wrong turn somewhere or you’re using the stock Honda GPS. 🤣
Personally, I wouldn’t want to mess with the aluminum frames on the GW.
If you hit the kind of stuff that rips the ECG off and breaks the engine cases, that would be the least of your worries.
You’ll have bigger problems than that.
If you think one of the two EGC offerings will work for you, buy it.
If not, don’t buy it.
Your bike and your choice.
We are way over the line with the “what ifs” IMHO.😎
"What-ifs" define motorcycling, and all riders get to set their own limits and choose their own "insurance." What-if we hit an oil slick? (ATGATT.) What-if we have a flat? (Runflats.) What-if a pebble hits us in the eye? (Face shields.) What-if someone turns in front of us (Airbags.) Those who've been alarmed by the what-if of having an engine case, oil filter, or transmission protrusion punctured by defiant road debris are free to buy belly pans. Having that same engine case ripped apart by the bolts that attach that belly pan is just another what-if, and we each get to decide to which what-if we respond to and how. The people who think insurance against this particular what-if is a worthwhile expense are entitled to explain their thinking.
 
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The people who think this particular insurance is worthwhile expense are free to explain their thinking.
The whole purpose of this case guard is to protect the shifting shalf casing at the front bottom of the engine from being snapped off if some road hazard was to hit the engine....its unlikely that most here will ever hit anything to do that, but... we have read about it happening more than once here on this forum..and we have heard about 1 oil filter being punctured and leaving the owner on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere... this case guard is simply a insurance policy against that kind of engine damage...plus it will save you the hassle of being stranded on the side of the road, ruining your vacation, and save you all the time and money involved with that...and it will save you the hassle of having to deal with the whole insurance/repair deal that will mostly drag out for over 6 months and then hopefully the bike will be repaired right.

I don't see this case guard causing any meaningful loss of ground clearance..so why the concern with this case guard hitting anything solid...if the bottom of bike were to hit anything solid like a parking bumper or concrete curb then theres going to be engine damage as it came from the factory anyways..thats called a accident..if the samething were to happen with this case guard and the engine case was damaged your in the same boat as you would be without the case guard..but I bet you would be safer with this case guard..but in any case if there is damage from hitting a concrete curb then your insurance company will take over anyways....the important thing is to protect the shifter casing at the bottom front of the engine from getting snapped off from a road hazard...and this case guard will do just that.
 

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so this may be trivial but is it bad my #1 worry is that my dealer will forget to put the plate back on after doing an oil change/work and then I'm out the plate...and the $$ for it
 
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