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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2021 Tour DCT. Go to start the bike this morning, had not ridden in 5 days. Bike would not start and I thought I was victim of bad battery. Go to open the left bag and nothing, no clicking, nothing. Got my key out and stuck in the bikes butt and bag opened manually. Tested battery, 12.5 resting and 7.6 when ignition turned on. Put it on a charger for an hour, then bike started right up. Rode for an hour, did multiple restarts and no issues.

At one stop I tried to open left bag, and again nothing. Right bag opens, top box opens, pressing their respective buttons, latch actuators work fine. Left bag button press does nothing but bag opens fine manually with key in butt.

Checked all fuses, all connections, all good. Wondering if something was faulty with the switch and that drained the battery. Where is little saga started.

Local dealers in Atlanta are booked but got an appointed for diagnostic in 2 weeks. Any thoughts or self items I could try in that time.

Side bar - Dealer closest to me would not even give me an appointment. Said that I would have to leave the bike and they would fit it in, in 10-14 days, then they would have to keep it until a part came in. My bike is my transportation so I passed. Sister dealer 14 miles away at least scheduled an appointment for diagnostic and will let me keep riding until part to fix whatever issue is found comes in.
 

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1) Check left saddlebag subharness connector is fully plugged in. Under seat on left side. Service manual will show location or you can post here and I'll dig it up for you.
2) Manually open bag. Check connector on latch assembly is fully plugged in. Will have to drop the latch assembly (4 silver bolts) holding it up. Connector is black four pin sumitomo.
3) With the latch assembly dropped and bag open, manually reset both latches to closed position. Push the open switch to see if the latches cycle. If the don't, continue on. If they do, latches (and maybe striker rods) need adjustment.
4) Check switch is fully plugged in. Requires removing trunk left side cover and then saddlebag top cover.

If you are electrically proficient, you can check power along the way. Keep in mind it is ground switched so circuits will be hot.

You can use these diagrams to troubleshoot. Saddlebag circuit works just like the trunk circuit...wire colors and connector locations are different. Feel free to print and give to the dealership if you go that route.

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
1) Check left saddlebag subharness connector is fully plugged in. Under seat on left side. Service manual will show location or you can post here and I'll dig it up for you.
2) Manually open bag. Check connector on latch assembly is fully plugged in. Will have to drop the latch assembly (4 silver bolts) holding it up. Connector is black four pin sumitomo.
3) With the latch assembly dropped and bag open, manually reset both latches to closed position. Push the open switch to see if the latches cycle. If the don't, continue on. If they do, latches (and maybe striker rods) need adjustment.
4) Check switch is fully plugged in. Requires removing trunk left side cover and then saddlebag top cover.

If you are electrically proficient, you can check power along the way. Keep in mind it is ground switched so circuits will be hot.

You can use these diagrams to troubleshoot. Saddlebag circuit works just like the trunk circuit...wire colors and connector locations are different. Feel free to print and give to the dealership if you go that route.
Thanks for the info. Some of this may be beyond my abilities and it will be a few days until I can dig in a bit more. Whatever occurred I believe that the drained battery and the left bag switch not working are related. Any insight on that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If your battery was reading 7.6 with the key on, it is probably damaged. An overnight recharge might bring it back, but it also may be permanently damaged due to sulfation. This could be contributing to your saddlebag woes.
My working theory is that the left bag switch caused the battery drain. Since the other bags functioned normally even with the drained battery and continue to do so even after I've recharged the battery. I'll be regularly be monitoring the battery but I do plan to replace as soon as I can determine root cause.
 

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Thanks for the info. Some of this may be beyond my abilities and it will be a few days until I can dig in a bit more. Whatever occurred I believe that the drained battery and the left bag switch not working are related. Any insight on that.
Sorry, nothing else to add. Fred's point is also spot on and something to mention to the dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Update
I dropped the left latch assembly and mechanically, the latches are functioning as they should. Removed the 4 pin connector and tried to test if their was power to this point but got no reading. This may be from my ineptness. Put it all back together. Bag still opens fine with key, switch still does nothing. Dealer appointment is next Wednesday so we’ll see what they find.
 

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I don't suppose this could possible be related to a weak fob battery?
 

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Update
I dropped the left latch assembly and mechanically, the latches are functioning as they should. Removed the 4 pin connector and tried to test if their was power to this point but got no reading. This may be from my ineptness. Put it all back together. Bag still opens fine with key, switch still does nothing. Dealer appointment is next Wednesday so we’ll see what they find.
You could also check continuity of the switch.
 

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Update
I dropped the left latch assembly and mechanically, the latches are functioning as they should. Removed the 4 pin connector and tried to test if their was power to this point but got no reading. This may be from my ineptness. Put it all back together. Bag still opens fine with key, switch still does nothing. Dealer appointment is next Wednesday so we’ll see what they find.
One last thing you can check if so inclined.

Check to make sure the left saddlebag sub harness connector is fully plugged in.
It is under the seat, the one that Pathfinder/Kury/Goldstrike/EC sub harnesses and the Kisan rear flasher box plugs into.
See the yellow boxes in the diagram.
If it wasn't fully plugged together, makes sure it is then check the saddlebag operation.

If that doesn't work, and you have an aftermarket subharness plugged into it, disconnect the aftermarket subharness and plug the two OEM connectors together. Then check to see if the saddle bag opens.
If the saddlebag opens, you have a problem with the aftermarket subharness. If the saddlebag doesn't open, put it back together and wait for your appointment.
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
One last thing you can check if so inclined.

Check to make sure the left saddlebag sub harness connector is fully plugged in.
It is under the seat, the one that Pathfinder/Kury/Goldstrike/EC sub harnesses and the Kisan rear flasher box plugs into.
See the yellow boxes in the diagram.
If it wasn't fully plugged together, makes sure it is then check the saddlebag operation.

If that doesn't work, and you have an aftermarket subharness plugged into it, disconnect the aftermarket subharness and plug the two OEM connectors together. Then check to see if the saddle bag opens.
If the saddlebag opens, you have a problem with the aftermarket subharness. If the saddlebag doesn't open, put it back together and wait for your appointment.
RESOLVED
Thank you for that added info and I confirmed that I am an idiot. I know you mentioned that last week, so I had previously checked that the connectors were tight and in place and I do have a Trailblazer brake modulator in place. So this time based on your note, I disconnected them, plugged the OEM connector back in and low and behold, the saddlebag switch worked. Inspecting the left module, there was one loose/disconnected wire and that was the culprit.

I am wondering now if this loose wire could have caused the battery drain. Fred was right, the battery is shot. Any type of drain, like lights on for 5 min and it's down to 7.5v. Can't blame Honda for this one since I caused the issue with my farkle. Will replace the battery, preferably with a lithium.

Thanks again
 

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RESOLVED

Thanks again
Happy to hear! That you figured it out is all that matters. You are smart because you asked for help!

Loose wire might be the root cause, might not be.

Is the loose wire on Kisan connector, the Kisan module, or the bike's connector?

Does it look like any charr from an electrical arc on the wire and terminal?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Happy to hear! That you figured it out is all that matters. You are smart because you asked for help!

Loose wire might be the root cause, might not be.

Is the loose wire on Kisan connector, the Kisan module, or the bike's connector?

Does it look like any charr from an electrical arc on the wire and terminal?
Loose wire is on the Kisan connector, like it worked its way out of the harness. It appears to be clean, no char of any kind but could not get it back into the connector. These pins are very small and fragile. Will call Kisan and see if they will offer anything on the 7 month old module.

OEM connectors are fine. As soon as I took the Kisan module out of the loop, all worked fine. Had the bike on for about 5 min while I was switching the connector and testing brake light functionality, and that killed the battery again. Back on the tender.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Swapped the battery out today. Went with a Noco NLP20 lithium.

Have called Kisan Electronics twice, once yesterday afternoon and again late morning today. Both calls they said that no one from tech support was in the office. Apparently they work a very limited schedule. This may be a challenge getting anywhere with them. May try Wingstuff, where it was purchased.
 

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Swapped the battery out today. Went with a Noco NLP20 lithium.

Have called Kisan Electronics twice, once yesterday afternoon and again late morning today. Both calls they said that no one from tech support was in the office. Apparently they work a very limited schedule. This may be a challenge getting anywhere with them. May try Wingstuff, where it was purchased.
I suspect Wingstuff will take care of you.
If you keep after Kisan, might consider getting a written paper trail.
Send them an email stating "Warranty Claim" and request a swap out replacement.
Make sure to state a date you expect to hear back from them.
Be willing to follow up with a old fashion letter if needed.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I suspect Wingstuff will take care of you.
If you keep after Kisan, might consider getting a written paper trail.
Send them an email stating "Warranty Claim" and request a swap out replacement.
Make sure to state a date you expect to hear back from them.
Be willing to follow up with a old fashion letter if needed.

Good luck!
Did hear back from Kisan and they will repair/replace the units, I just have to ship them out. Will do that on Monday.
 
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